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2001 Ranger 4x4 Stub Shaft


Ranger38611

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I have a 2001 Ranger 4X4. 4.0L Engine. I had to replace the left front half shaft because of a split CV boot. When I pulled the half shaft out, the stub shaft came out of the axle housing along with it. I reinstalled the stub shaft then reassembled the steering. The truck ran ok for a week or so then the stub shaft disconnected from inside the differential. This results in a terrible rattle. I took all apart and replaced the C-Clip on the differential end of the stub shaft with the best I could find since the clip did not appear to have the same "springiness" as the one on the CV end. It came loose again. I then took the OEM clip from the CV end of the shaft and placed it on the differential end then reassembled. I also pulled on the inboard CV joint to see how hard it was to expand/compress. It felt smooth and easy. I do not have a clip on the CV end of the stub shaft at the moment - I left it off to see if the half shaft is pulling the stub shaft out. I have taken a couple of quick trips in the truck and can sense a vibration (I think) that may be caused by the missing C-Clip at the stub shaft / CV coupling. I took a longer trip and the stub shaft disengaged again. Question 1 - Is lack of the outboard clip a problem? Question 2 - What would cause the stub shaft to so easily disengage from the differential? Question 3 - I am wondering if the roller bearing on the outboard end of the shaft could have enough slop that it would allow the shaft to vibrate loose? Question 4 - I have found the parts I need in a Spicer catalog. The Spicer website says that Carquest and O'Reilly sell their parts. Carquest has been bought by Advance and they have no clue about ordering from Spicer. O'Reilly does not have a clue either. I have filled out the Spicer form asking for information about where I can buy parts in the Memphis area but have had no response. Where can I get the parts locally so that I can hold the old parts and new parts together for comparison? I am posting to this forum because I am going disassemble again today.
 
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adsm08

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Try the dealership. A lot of times Ford will package new c-clips either individually or with a new axle seal.
 

Ranger38611

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Dealership no help

I went to the dealership and carried the stub shaft with me. We used the picture they had of the parts break down and ordered what the catalog said was 2 circlips and a new seal. What arrived were 2 plastic circles and an o-ring. We tried again with the same results. According to the dealership, Ford has recently updated their catalog and there are some bugs.
 

pjtoledo

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Jegs? Summit Racing? NAPA?
 

Ranger38611

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Haven't tried Summit or Jegg's. Was hoping to find local so that I could get the truck back on the road. Napa had no idea howa to get the clips. Still need a clue as to why the shaft slips out of place. Anybody seen that happen? Would slop in the roller bearing allow the shaft to vibrate loose?
 

Ranger38611

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Sorry ya'll, been meaning to get back. I have not been able to find a Spicer rep in Memphis. I filled in their form and asked for help. They referred me back to the website which is where I started. So, I went to a shady operation to attempt to find a C-Clip. I installed it. The problem came back worse than before regarding the rattle. So, I got my uncle, a mechanical engineer, involved. He suggested that the sound I am hearing may not be where I think I am hearing it. In other words - sound travels. I had no choice but to use the truck to get to and from work Saturday. The problem got so bad I parked it. Yesterday I began another inspection. I found that the transfer case end of the differential/transfer case drive shaft had play. I began a close inspection and found that the CV seal was broken. I replaced the transfer case/front differential drive shaft and the problem has cleared. I put almost 60 miles on the truck today and life is very good. I still have 2 major issues: 1- I am still running with no C-Clip between the stub shaft and the half shaft. Is this an issue????? Somebody PLEASE advise. 2- Somebody. Anybody. Please tell me where I can order Spicer parts in Memphis. I know the parts I need but when I e-mail them they respond and send me back to the website. Seriously, if a company wanted to run people off - these guys could write the book. I would like to leave my post on the immediate need help posting for the time being until I find out if I can run with out the c-clips or how to order them. Thank you.
 

adsm08

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Running without that clip is not ideal. It is a retainer and it was put there for a reason.

That being said, in the short term it should cause no undue issues. On the Rangers there isn't enough room to even pop the axle out without removing the knuckle from the truck, even at full droop, so I really doubt it will just fall out on you with the weight of the vehicle on it. I would still keep trying to find a new clip, but I wouldn't worry about driving it in the mean time.
 

pjtoledo

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a possibility is Trail Gear 140330-1, available at Jegs.com under 542-140330-1

you'll need to verify dimensions
 

Ranger38611

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Problem Solved

Ok - First, thanks to each of you that responded! Upon further review, I received a penalty flag for not having a clue. I reassembled the truck and the rattle/vibration got EXTREMELY bad. So, I took it apart yet again and the stub shaft came out again. I put the stub shaft back in and could not get it to rattle in the bearing. As I moved the creeper to another position under to truck to continue looking - I grabbed the drive shaft from the transfer case to the front differential and it shifted. I than began a very close inspection and found that the boot on the CV joint at the transfer case was broken and there was a stupid amount of play on that end of the shaft. I could see the balls rattling around in their "cage". I pulled the drive shaft and carried it to O'Reilly who happened to have one. I replaced the drive shaft, reassembled the truck and started driving. All of the rattle and vibration went away. Truck runs like new. Final note - When the half shaft is pulled, it is the very devil to break loose from the stub shaft. It appears that the half shaft / stub shaft connection is stronger than the stub shaft / differential connection. Because I had been working on the front right, I was predisposed to hear the noise in that area. The sound was simply transferring through the metal so that I could hear it any where I wanted. Lesson learned. Again, thanks to each of you who responded.
 

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