1999 ranger 3.0 blown head gasket

Spurs234 · Feb 27, 2018

Hi there everyone. I’m Ryan. I traded a four wheeler for this 1999 ranger 3.0 and I was aware it had a blown head gasket. I took the heads off and am going to send them to a machine shop. My question is that should I just ditch this motor and find another 3.0 or should I try and fix this one? The owner gave me the whole head gasket kit with new head bolts and everything. If you guys think I should fix it, can some one provide the torque specs for the head bolts and the rocker arms? Also when I put the heads back on do I need to adjust the valves or will they do it on there own due to the cam lifters? This will be my first blown head gasket repair on my own if y’all think I should repair this engine. I’m still learning mechanics so sorry if this is a whole lot. Thank y’all

pjtoledo · Feb 27, 2018

go up near the of the Forum to Tech info submitted, there is a new post for the head gasket job there, full details.

adsm08 · Feb 27, 2018

Do it. Head gaskets is a big job, but not usually an engine killing failure.

Also, if you have head bolts already check the box for an instruction sheet. The last few sets of non-OEM head bolts I got came with sheets that had the torque specs and sequence for the heads.

Craig0320 · Feb 27, 2018

I will tell you this. If that engine was run hot enough to shut the truck off going down the road then heads will be a risky situation. I have seen first hand this scenario and after the heads were installed the bottom end went a few thousand miles later because the heat ruined the main and rod bearings. Just be careful and find out the whole story behind how hot the engine got. You don't wont to put the labor and time into it and the bottom end be damaged. Just my two cents.

cp2295 · Feb 28, 2018

Craig0320 said:
I will tell you this. If that engine was run hot enough to shut the truck off going down the road then heads will be a risky situation. I have seen first hand this scenario and after the heads were installed the bottom end went a few thousand miles later because the heat ruined the main and rod bearings. Just be careful and find out the whole story behind how hot the engine got. You don't wont to put the labor and time into it and the bottom end be damaged. Just my two cents.

Good point I second this. If it wasn’t overheated too bad, then I’d redo the engine you got now

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Spurs234 · Feb 28, 2018

Alright guys I like the input. I'm going to drain the oil today and check if theres any large metal shavings in it. If there is not then I will be getting the heads machined and inspectcted for cracks. Then i'l get ready to put the heads back on next week.

Craig0320 · Feb 28, 2018

To properly check you would need to pull the oil pan and a rod or main cap off to visually inspect the bearing for scratching and bluing. They do not always put chunks or shavings in the oil RIGHT AWAY. Once again I have seen it first hand. No shavings or chunks just really black oil. Rebuilt the heads and ran the truck about 3k and started knocking. Once you lightly score a bearing it takes a little time to take the minimal scoring to turn into deep scoring. Same thing with bluing the bearing ( which causing scoring/grooving). You change the hardness of the metal because of the extreme heat and it deteriorates faster. This is why I really would just rather replace the engine if it was me because of the chance you are taking. But just because the head gasket blows does not mean it can't be saved. As long as you take your time to inspect everything. Again. Just my .02

Spurs234 · Feb 28, 2018

oh okay Craig0320. Il try and pull the pan today and a rod also. Worst comes to worse il get a used engine. Im ready to have this thing driving because i know its going to be a fun truck.

Craig0320 · Feb 28, 2018

It is possible to find a good used engine for that truck. Problem is 99 was a split year for production on the 3.0

1998–1999 – 3.0 L (2957 cc) Vulcan V6, 145 hp (108 kW), 178 lb⋅ft (241 N⋅m)
2000–2001 – 3.0 L (2957 cc) Vulcan V6, 150 hp (112 kW), 190 lb⋅ft (258 N⋅m)

I do not know if it was injector size that changed for the little extra hp and torque. But I do know they had a flex fuel version of it. My mom had a 99 flex fuel and I could not find a low-mid mileage engine for that particular vin number. All had around 200k on them. So rebuilding the 3.0 is an option if it is going to need machine work. But if you want to go a separate route a 5.0 conversion is nice which=LOTS OF FUN. :headbang:

ForTheLoveOfMonkeys · Feb 28, 2018

pjtoledo said:
go up near the of the Forum to Tech info submitted, there is a new post for the head gasket job there, full details.

I happened to write the guide pjtoledo mentioned :beer:

Having done this recently myself I can say I'd lean towards doing it.

The 3.0 engine tends to be pretty solid and that cast iron block can really take some punishment... but it does have limits.

My suggestion would be to proceed with taking the heads off and then thoroughly inspect them. Depending on what you find keep digging. If you run into severe warpage, bent rods, valve damage then you should really take an intense look at the block and pistons.

In my case I had minor warpage but wound up replacing them with reman'd heads from DoverCylinderHeads. They had upgraded valve seats and included a full gasket set and the head bolts for the reasonable price of $450 including shipping both ways.

I included pretty much all the major torque specs & sequences in my write up but hit me up if you run into any problems or questions. Definitely set aside some time for this job.

Rocker Arms Stage 1: 5-10 lb-ft | Stage 2: 20-28 lb-ft

Spurs234 · Mar 1, 2018

well i have decided to get a used motor for the truck. Took the oil out of this one in the truck and had a whole bunch of metal come out. So i'm going to try and find a used 3.0 for about $500.

ForTheLoveOfMonkeys · Mar 1, 2018

Spurs234 said:
well i have decided to get a used motor for the truck. Took the oil out of this one in the truck and had a whole bunch of metal come out. So i'm going to try and find a used 3.0 for about $500.

Ouch.

I've heard it said on here that if someone can kill the 3.0 they shouldn't really drive cars, hold babies, or be allowed outside without their helmet so the previous owner must've held a grudge against that engine.

Silver lining though: I'd say you have an opportunity here. The 3.0 is super reliable when maintained... but kinda boring without significant tinkering like custom intakes, performance camshafts, upgraded roller rocker arms, and even the stupid heads have issues with soft valve seats (all those upgrades turn pricey pretty quick).

Seeing as how the engine's got to be replaced, in your shoes I'd be giving some serious consideration to the 5.0 swap that Craig mentioned a few comments back. The performance would likely still outdo almost anything you could do to the 3.0.

My engine is running well and I still think about it some days. Mine's my daily driver so it's off the table but hopefully I'll be able to get around to it.

It's more complex and more expensive than a 1:1 swap but if you're in the position where you've got the time and means you could wind up with a toy with some serious cahones.

Craig0320 · Mar 1, 2018

ForTheLoveOfMonkeys said:
Ouch.

I've heard it said on here that if someone can kill the 3.0 they shouldn't really drive cars, hold babies, or be allowed outside without their helmet so the previous owner must've held a grudge against that engine.

Silver lining though: I'd say you have an opportunity here. The 3.0 is super reliable when maintained... but kinda boring without significant tinkering like custom intakes, performance camshafts, upgraded roller rocker arms, and even the stupid heads have issues with soft valve seats (all those upgrades turn pricey pretty quick).

Seeing as how the engine's got to be replaced, in your shoes I'd be giving some serious consideration to the 5.0 swap that Craig mentioned a few comments back. The performance would likely still outdo almost anything you could do to the 3.0.

My engine is running well and I still think about it some days. Mine's my daily driver so it's off the table but hopefully I'll be able to get around to it.

It's more complex and more expensive than a 1:1 swap but if you're in the position where you've got the time and means you could wind up with a toy with some serious cahones.

I have a write up on my 5.0 swap in the how to tech on the site. It really is not that hard if you do your homework and have all the parts. I will say this that a bone stock 5.0 drop in is lots of fun and will blow the doors off the 3.0 and 4.0. Normal driving/cruising through town I shift into the next gear at 1800 rpms. I am doing 70 by the time I am up the on ramp to the interstate and only had to run it around 2700 rpms to get there. Add a set of torque monster headers with it and more power will be had.

ForTheLoveOfMonkeys · Mar 1, 2018

Craig0320 said:
I have a write up on my 5.0 swap in the how to tech on the site. It really is not that hard if you do your homework and have all the parts. I will say this that a bone stock 5.0 drop in is lots of fun and will blow the doors off the 3.0 and 4.0. Normal driving/cruising through town I shift into the next gear at 1800 rpms. I am doing 70 by the time I am up the on ramp to the interstate and only had to run it around 2700 rpms to get there. Add a set of torque monster headers with it and more power will be had.

Spurs this is the crossroad before you: Boring and reliable? OR live your own The Fast & The Furious movie blowing by folks on the highway who would never suspect it from a dinky little 3.0 Ranger.

Boring or Phenomenal? Red Pill or Blue Pill? Housewife or that girl you dated briefly in college who went on to become a stripper?

But in all seriousness, it's a decision entirely dependent on your circumstances and goals so make the best call for yourself.

Craig I saw your write-up and several others a few times over the past 4 months as I was working out how to deal with my own engine issues. It's good stuff and I love the idea. Currently I'm holding out for a Tesla as my "welcome to marriage" gift to myself otherwise I'd buy another car while I worked on the 5.0 swap but until then I'll stick with the truck I've relied on for the better part of two decades. But you do make it difficult sir, very difficult.

Craig0320 · Mar 1, 2018

ForTheLoveOfMonkeys said:
Spurs this is the crossroad before you: Boring and reliable? OR live your own The Fast & The Furious movie blowing by folks on the highway who would never suspect it from a dinky little 3.0 Ranger.

Boring or Phenomenal? Red Pill or Blue Pill? Housewife or that girl you dated briefly in college who went on to become a stripper?

But in all seriousness, it's a decision entirely dependent on your circumstances and goals so make the best call for yourself.

Craig I saw your write-up and several others a few times over the past 4 months as I was working out how to deal with my own engine issues. It's good stuff and I love the idea. Currently I'm holding out for a Tesla as my "welcome to marriage" gift to myself otherwise I'd buy another car while I worked on the 5.0 swap but until then I'll stick with the truck I've relied on for the better part of two decades. But you do make it difficult sir, very difficult.

MUHAHAHAHAH! The 5.0 bug has been implanted. :headbang:

1999 ranger 3.0 blown head gasket

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