Inverting the Master? Help Bleeding the Clutch.

Hey guys I need clarification.

I need help bleeding the m5od after replacing the slave cylinder.

I have searched and read all of the different methods to bleeding the clutch, and I've actually done this once before successfully. Last time simply hanging the reservoir upside down seemed to do the trick.

This time I've pumped about 1/2 gallon of fluid through the dang thing and can't get it bled. I've had the master cylinder removed from the firewall, turned upside down, and pumped it until you can't pump it with your hand, its rock hard. But once installed on the truck again it does feel soft with your leg and it still won't go into gears. It is visible moving the pressure plate a decent amount.

Does anyone have pictures or a better explanation of "inverting the master cylinder"? I have not had the master cylinder below the level of the slave cylinder yet. I simply had the reservoir and master pulled to the wheel well region and turned the master cylinder upside down and pumped. I've done this more than once with no improved results. Does the reservoir need to be lower than the master when performing this?

Could I possibly have a leak past the master? I've thought that but am more inclined to think I do not have all the air out of the system as it is a known whore.

Some folks on here reply to these posts with, oh it's pie- just gotta invert it is all. If you have it down to a science please explain exactly how you hold your tongue during this procedure, it's owning me. How low do you hold different components, etc. maybe I will do a write up with pics on this if I can get it to bleed. It seems to have stumped a lot of people.

I couldn't get the quick disconnect plugged into the new slave for the life of me until I opened the bleeder, relieved the pressure, read that on here, that should be in the write up too.

P.S. I do not have a clutch reservoir diaphram, this truck has never had one and has ran with no clutch issues for several years. What is the real purpose of the missing diaphram and do I need to get one? are they the same as on full size clutch resevoirs?

Thanks, Josh.

Turning it upside down won't get rid of the trapped air. When the clutch master is on the firewall one end sits higher and the trapped air can't get out no matter how much fluid you bleed through it.

With the master loose, but all lines attached, tip the end of the master with the trapped air upward, then bleed the system while it's in that position. That should get you 90% there while driving the truck for about a week will usually remove the little bit remaining.

Cracking the bleeder fitting open, and then very forcibly slamming the pedal up & down a bunch of times in very quick succession is what worked for me. After doing this I was then able to bleed it normally and get enough pedal to where I could drive it. After awhile (few days) that last tiny bit of air in the line will dissipate on it's own like cocoasranger said and the full pedal will return.

Your mileage may vary.

Also, that diaphragm is also the cap seal. Without it it's not sealed and the fluid will want to absorb moisture.

well, I guess I will report back once i get it bled on what did the trick. might be pushed off a bit as I am now swapping this drivetrain into a ranger.

Actually the '83-92 master cylinder in specific and the clutch system in general WILL self bleed.

MOST of the problems getting entrapped air out of them are,
because people are trying to short circuit the "Self" part and
rush the job and get a "perfect" pedal immediatly.

What I'll say is quit messing with it, you'll only get frustrated.

The easy way is push the pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there for a minute, then slip your foot off of it and let the pedal snap up.

Now this is hard to do and I usually train people to do this by giving them a "love pat" with the canoe paddle... WALK AWAY! Just walk away...

Get a coke, have a smoke bank your head against a wall until you lose count,
but don't go back to it for a while, 10-15min

Bubbles take time to float to the top.
push the pedal to the floor again and let it snap up

Most of the pumping people do turn the fluid into foam
by pumping air into the system.

The root problem is impatience.

AD

i was told from a friends father thats done transmissions all his life to take a screw driver and hold the resivor higher than the master out of the truck, pump it till its hard then take the screw driver and tap the master and the lines rapidly all the way to the connection.
i watched this when he did it on my truck and seen countless airbubbles come out of the line.
he did it for about 30 minutes and finally the bubbles stopped we installed it into the truck bled it off the slave and its a stiff pedal