MAFoElffen
New Member
- Joined
- Feb 6, 2010
- Messages
- 11
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 0
- Vehicle Year
- 1993
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Transmission
- Manual
Need Help/Ideas On Problem...
1993 Ford Ranger, 2WD, 3.0 V6, Manual Trans.-
Sat for 2 years... I could no longer afford not to drive this (instead of my 1-ton) so I charged battery and started... It ran fine for 2 days, albeit smelling like paint thinner from exhaust. Stopped & filled fuel tank... Then, I had problems/ No power, would not rev... had to feather throttle to limp home. Then ran OK for a few miles, then same again.
After turning engine off and cooling overnight- Then would start fine, rev once (on own) then die. You could prolong the dieing if you lightly feathered the throttle. Thinking it might have been moisture in tank or the old fuel- I mixed in some SeaFoam fuel conditioner and some 104+ octane booster and changed the fuel filter/No change.
The fuel filter was not clogged, nor did it have any moisture , sediment nor contaminants. I checked the fuel pressure with the engine off- 40 pounds. I dumped the codes and the only codes were for a PIP circuit failure and HEGO lean on #1 and #2...
Ignition spark was good- firing and strong. Noid lights on injectors told me that all the injectors were getting a pulse signal. Both these tests indicated to me that the PIP circuit was functioning... I figure the loss of signal was because I was trying to gt running codes whil the engin was dieing... and left the ignition switch on after it died- to finish retrieving those codes.
There was no apparent vacuum leaks found... The MAF sensor has resistance between the terminals and has a good supply voltage. I couldn't check the running voltage between terminals C & D, as I couldn't keep it running by myself and still test. I cleaned the MAF with MAF Cleaner/no change.
In the process of testing, one of the times I started the engine, it fired up and ran fine!?! --> I had left the MAF sensor unplugged... I got a used MAF sensor from a 1994 Taurus and put it on mine, no change with it plugged in.
It runs and drives with the MAF unplugged: Consequently, it runs rich that way. I've driven that way for about 400 plus miles since. Tested Coolant temp sensor- OK. Throttle postion sensor- OK. Air bypass valve "seems" to work. I cannot find an Intake air temp sensor. I do not see any EGR valve nor an EGR solinoid on this motor, nor where on would mount. The HEGO sense voltage seems to fluctuate fine on both sensor circuits.
With the MAF sensor unplugged I get an internal PCM voltage failure code and HEGO #1 sensing rich code. Somehow, with it plugged in, I seem to be getting a signal to all the injectors, but must be a very narrow pulse/stopped down/not enough fuel. With it unplugged, you can smell it running rich.
Any ideas?
1993 Ford Ranger, 2WD, 3.0 V6, Manual Trans.-
Sat for 2 years... I could no longer afford not to drive this (instead of my 1-ton) so I charged battery and started... It ran fine for 2 days, albeit smelling like paint thinner from exhaust. Stopped & filled fuel tank... Then, I had problems/ No power, would not rev... had to feather throttle to limp home. Then ran OK for a few miles, then same again.
After turning engine off and cooling overnight- Then would start fine, rev once (on own) then die. You could prolong the dieing if you lightly feathered the throttle. Thinking it might have been moisture in tank or the old fuel- I mixed in some SeaFoam fuel conditioner and some 104+ octane booster and changed the fuel filter/No change.
The fuel filter was not clogged, nor did it have any moisture , sediment nor contaminants. I checked the fuel pressure with the engine off- 40 pounds. I dumped the codes and the only codes were for a PIP circuit failure and HEGO lean on #1 and #2...
Ignition spark was good- firing and strong. Noid lights on injectors told me that all the injectors were getting a pulse signal. Both these tests indicated to me that the PIP circuit was functioning... I figure the loss of signal was because I was trying to gt running codes whil the engin was dieing... and left the ignition switch on after it died- to finish retrieving those codes.
There was no apparent vacuum leaks found... The MAF sensor has resistance between the terminals and has a good supply voltage. I couldn't check the running voltage between terminals C & D, as I couldn't keep it running by myself and still test. I cleaned the MAF with MAF Cleaner/no change.
In the process of testing, one of the times I started the engine, it fired up and ran fine!?! --> I had left the MAF sensor unplugged... I got a used MAF sensor from a 1994 Taurus and put it on mine, no change with it plugged in.
It runs and drives with the MAF unplugged: Consequently, it runs rich that way. I've driven that way for about 400 plus miles since. Tested Coolant temp sensor- OK. Throttle postion sensor- OK. Air bypass valve "seems" to work. I cannot find an Intake air temp sensor. I do not see any EGR valve nor an EGR solinoid on this motor, nor where on would mount. The HEGO sense voltage seems to fluctuate fine on both sensor circuits.
With the MAF sensor unplugged I get an internal PCM voltage failure code and HEGO #1 sensing rich code. Somehow, with it plugged in, I seem to be getting a signal to all the injectors, but must be a very narrow pulse/stopped down/not enough fuel. With it unplugged, you can smell it running rich.
Any ideas?
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