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Another Hard Shifting problem


BudgetB3000

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My truck is a 1998 Mazda B3000 4x4 5-Speed. This leads me to believe that the transmission is an M5R1? I am a bit confused about the differences between the transmissions. Anyways The truck shifts perfectly when turned off, but when on it has difficulty shifting into 1st and reverse. It also is a bit difficult to shift in to 2nd and 3rd and it will usually "catch" (something to do with the synchros maybe?) and then slide into gear. I'm wondering if this could just be a slave cylinder issue as I have already replaced the master cylinder and bled it correctly. My fear is that the synchros are probably worn and then will need to be replaced. If that is the case would this kit be everything I need to get my transmission back in to working order? https://www.allstategear.com/M5R1-Bearing-Kit-with-Synchro-Rings-p/bk247aws.htm

Any help is appreciated,
Thanks!
 


alwaysFlOoReD

alwaysFlOoReD

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I'll bet there is still air in the lines. Your symptoms are classic for air.
 

RonD

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Yes, +1 ^^^

Air is the most common issue

Yes, 1988 to 2012 Rangers used the M5OD-R1 manual transmissions, there were different cases on the outside for different engine sizes and 2WD or 4x4, but internally they were the same "model", so 2.3l, 2.5l, 2.9l, 3.0l, 4.0l engines all use an M5R1 but they were not interchangeable because outside case is different

You can get a bad synchro gear, but for more than one to have a problem would be very very........very long odds
The M5R1 was a good reliable transmission, it does use ATF, yes automatic transmission fluid in a Manual transmission.
NOT gear oil like most manuals, if someone puts in gear oil it will be very hard to shift, ATF is 10w, gear oil is 70w+, so way to "thick" a fluid to use
 
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BudgetB3000

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Wow I will be shocked but glad if that is the case because I really thought I bled the crap outta the master cylinder and it also had this same problem before i changed the master cylinder. Could it just be a slave cylinder issue then maybe? Ill re-bleed the master tomorrow and see if I have any luck.
 
alwaysFlOoReD

alwaysFlOoReD

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Describe how you're bleeding.
I use engine vacuum and a home made bypass.
description of vacuum bleeder followed by pic;
There is a long hose, ~ 15-20 feet.
There is a short hose, ~ 3 feet.
Mason jar with holes drilled in the lid. Holes sized so it is difficult to push in the hose. Cutting the hose end on an angle makes it easier to insert.
Long hose goes to engine vacuum.
Short hose goes to bleeder valve.
Works for all hydraulic systems with bleeders ie; brakes.


 

BudgetB3000

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alwaysFlOoReD said:
Describe how you're bleeding.
I use engine vacuum and a home made bypass.
description of vacuum bleeder followed by pic;
There is a long hose, ~ 15-20 feet.
There is a short hose, ~ 3 feet.
Mason jar with holes drilled in the lid. Holes sized so it is difficult to push in the hose. Cutting the hose end on an angle makes it easier to insert.
Long hose goes to engine vacuum.
Short hose goes to bleeder valve.
Works for all hydraulic systems with bleeders ie; brakes.



The way that I bled my master cylinder is the same as the man did in this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BKMHiauS7xw&t=396s
I assumed this was sufficient but now I'm not so sure :dunno:
Click to expand...
 
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