Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and mhavoc
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- Joined
- Sep 26, 2010
- Messages
- 23
- Reaction score
- 1
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- Vehicle Year
- 1986
- Make / Model
- ford
- Transmission
- Manual
Well, it has been a very long haul, but I finally got my truck running nice... I had another thread but it was way off and had a very long story too, so I started this thread to wrap it up... the original thread was at..
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140960
at that point I thought it was an ignition issue.
The issue was that after about 10 minutes in hot weather, the fuel pressure would drop and the engine would stall. I was getting air in the rail. I found another thread talking about the in-tank pump causing this because of the negative pressure between the main high pressure pump and the tank, the low pressure would cause the gas to boil when it was hot and put air in the line.
My '86 has two gas tanks. Since my selector valve is bad, I chose to keep the main (center) tank which is 17 gallons, and remove the rear tank which is only 10 gallons. The other benefit is that I can finally put my spare under the truck after I take the rear tank out. So, I bought a new center in-tank pump and sender. The lock ring was pretty cruddy and rusted. I used the air compressor and water to blow out as much as possible and a jewelers screwdriver to pick out the tiny rocks in the chases. The lock ring only has 4 little tabs that you can tap to try and rotate the ring, I actually destroyed the center tank lock ring taking it off but luckily the back tank ring came of easier and was in much better shape. I also used the back tank gasket and even the electrical connector (pulled out the pins) off the back tank because everythign was nicer back there. My center in tank pump had rubber connector between the pump and the sender tube completely disentigrated, so it was clearly bad in this case. I got a new one from Advance Auto for $110 which was the pump and sender. It went right in. I pulled out all the plastic fuel lines, took out the selector valve, removed the rear tank canister line and just ran plain old rubber fuel line from the center tank to the filter/reservoir and hose clamped it on. I also took out the selector switch on the dash to send power permanantly to the center tank pump and jumped the fuel gauge to the center tank on the tank selector harness.
Either way, it was a lot of work (but I think only took me about 6 hours to take the bed off and then get it all back together). But it wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it might have been
Truck is running great. In the end, I replaced lots, but it should run well now...
1. Remote Mount TFI (if I had spotted that my fuel pressure was dropping, I wouldnt' have done this)
2. '88 ECU because of removed EGR and associated components (required)
3. In-Tank Fuel pump and removal of rear tank and associated components (was the primary issue)
Thanks for all the help from everyone...
I have lots of leftover components from this job that I don't want, Im happy to give them to anyone here on the forum if they want them for the cost of shipping.
1. All fuel lines with compression fittings
2. Rear Tank
3. Rear Tank brackets and plate
Jess
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140960
at that point I thought it was an ignition issue.
The issue was that after about 10 minutes in hot weather, the fuel pressure would drop and the engine would stall. I was getting air in the rail. I found another thread talking about the in-tank pump causing this because of the negative pressure between the main high pressure pump and the tank, the low pressure would cause the gas to boil when it was hot and put air in the line.
My '86 has two gas tanks. Since my selector valve is bad, I chose to keep the main (center) tank which is 17 gallons, and remove the rear tank which is only 10 gallons. The other benefit is that I can finally put my spare under the truck after I take the rear tank out. So, I bought a new center in-tank pump and sender. The lock ring was pretty cruddy and rusted. I used the air compressor and water to blow out as much as possible and a jewelers screwdriver to pick out the tiny rocks in the chases. The lock ring only has 4 little tabs that you can tap to try and rotate the ring, I actually destroyed the center tank lock ring taking it off but luckily the back tank ring came of easier and was in much better shape. I also used the back tank gasket and even the electrical connector (pulled out the pins) off the back tank because everythign was nicer back there. My center in tank pump had rubber connector between the pump and the sender tube completely disentigrated, so it was clearly bad in this case. I got a new one from Advance Auto for $110 which was the pump and sender. It went right in. I pulled out all the plastic fuel lines, took out the selector valve, removed the rear tank canister line and just ran plain old rubber fuel line from the center tank to the filter/reservoir and hose clamped it on. I also took out the selector switch on the dash to send power permanantly to the center tank pump and jumped the fuel gauge to the center tank on the tank selector harness.
Either way, it was a lot of work (but I think only took me about 6 hours to take the bed off and then get it all back together). But it wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it might have been
Truck is running great. In the end, I replaced lots, but it should run well now...
1. Remote Mount TFI (if I had spotted that my fuel pressure was dropping, I wouldnt' have done this)
2. '88 ECU because of removed EGR and associated components (required)
3. In-Tank Fuel pump and removal of rear tank and associated components (was the primary issue)
Thanks for all the help from everyone...
I have lots of leftover components from this job that I don't want, Im happy to give them to anyone here on the forum if they want them for the cost of shipping.
1. All fuel lines with compression fittings
2. Rear Tank
3. Rear Tank brackets and plate
Jess
