88 2.9L Misfireing/backfireing issue

Calling Napa before the Roosters get up

Just found out that my old 3.8V6 injectors are not right the flow rate is 36 lbs/hr and 2.9l V6 flow rate is 14 lbs/hr I found a chart on Ford fuel injector sizes. Will get a rebuilt Napa one its not to bad at $54.04

Good thing you checked that...

No junk yards in your area? I know of at least on junkyard that has a fairly new set of 18lb injectors...but only 4...

Always better to get new or rebuilt parts...hope that works for you...

Mark_88 said:

Good thing you checked that...

No junk yards in your area? I know of at least on junkyard that has a fairly new set of 18lb injectors...but only 4...

Always better to get new or rebuilt parts...hope that works for you...

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"Ohhhh how I wish"

No junk yards close to me "Pick In Pull" is 57 miles away the other is in Nevada is 78 miles away. Me and my brother use to go to Pick In Pill get free camshafts for his 4 cylinder Mustang that kept eating them up. It was easy back in the early 80's stick them in your pants legs other stuff in your pockets LoL now day they check your tool box etc

Anyway good or bad results, I do so much appreciate all your help and others if it weren't for this Quick Help forum guy's like me would be in serious trouble

Well, always happy to help...not so sure about "quick help" in your case...this has been dragging out for a long time...but at least you are making progress...sort of...

Mark_88 said:

Well, always happy to help...not so sure about "quick help" in your case...this has been dragging out for a long time...but at least you are making progress...sort of...

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Mark

I got it apart "what a pain in the Ass" Fords stupid idea putting the injector connector smack up agenced the Dist the other lower ones no way to disconnect. I got the upper connectors loose with special homemade tool stiil rough going. I had to get the fuel rail loose from the intake to disconnect the lower injector connectors. I found each one of the manifold injector bores below the O-ring full of black gooish hard oil. I took and set my multimeter to measure (ohms) I tested number 3 cylinder fuel injector its at 14.3 I found a cracked pintle protection case on number 6 cylinder injector. I think I did this trying to remove the fuel rail by rocking back and forth. I did this following the Chiltion Manual instructions on removal. I tested all other injectors there at 14.3 from what the manual states if there lower than 10 there faulty replace them

My new Napa injector reads 16.1 I cleaned each injector bore I have a scope light will make sure there all clear before putting it back together. Now both number 3 and number 6 cylinder will have new injectors. The crack in the injector looks as if its been that way for a time but I think I did it removing the fuel rail. Another $65 I learn the hard way it seams with this truck thus far

Update not good

Well guy's I spent over $150 and in the freezing cold changed out number 3 and number 6 injectors. I got it together fired it up ran smooth I let it run for a while. I pulled number 3 plug looks nice clean burning perfect and old plug. I cleaned my new Autolight platinum plug instaled it fired it up running smooth. Now the road test I get on the highway 65mph no problem I hit the grade 55-45-40 than pop pop pop. I get the same results over and over again no mater how much time and money I sink into this truck. It popped all the way through town I stopped 10 min fired it up popping I went to the store shut it off for 25 min fired it up shaking running shitty hit the throttle twice cleared up running smooth all the way home 6 miles. I don't get it now I got a new issue each time I put it in drive it drops to 500rpm's almost stalling

I am done I wont spend another dime on this truck its go until it blows. Anyway thanks to all of you for your time and effort its time to let this thread and truck die together

Another ouch.

If the low idle happened after putting it back together it may be something was left off or not connected properly. Push all the caps of the wires on both the plugs and the distributor and also check that the caps for the plugs are pushed through the boot.

I pulled on a plug wire once and it drew the connector up so high into the boot that it would not connect to the tip of the plug directly. It was still sparking but only because it was within reach but not sitting on the end of the plug...

Other than that...take a step back and quite often the answer will come to you...worked for me more times than I can count.

Thanks for the challenge and the effort...I actually thought about this one more than any other thread I've ever read and was hoping it would be a simple fix...I still believe that it is but I can appreciate how you want to move on...

Let us know if you ever figure it out...just curious...and ever hopeful!

Mark_88 said:

Another ouch.

If the low idle happened after putting it back together it may be something was left off or not connected properly. Push all the caps of the wires on both the plugs and the distributor and also check that the caps for the plugs are pushed through the boot.

I pulled on a plug wire once and it drew the connector up so high into the boot that it would not connect to the tip of the plug directly. It was still sparking but only because it was within reach but not sitting on the end of the plug...

Other than that...take a step back and quite often the answer will come to you...worked for me more times than I can count.

Thanks for the challenge and the effort...I actually thought about this one more than any other thread I've ever read and was hoping it would be a simple fix...I still believe that it is but I can appreciate how you want to move on...

Let us know if you ever figure it out...just curious...and ever hopeful!

Click to expand...

Mark some better news

I was real depressed with this truck to the point of junking it. Today I was thinking try the back road half dirt and pavement. It climbs up steep some 5 miles I fired it up sounds great. I put in drive idling at 900rpm's only dropping to 700rpm's quick and than back to 900rpm's. I hit the highway 1/4 all up hill shifting fine pull off the highway on to the back road to town. I kept it low rpm's 2000 at 25mph all the way to the top. I made it no popping drove to town another 5 miles all level ground stopped a few times no issues. I went home 8 miles no issues took the turnoff to my house. This where it gets me all the time nothing this time runs smooth. This is the first time in about 3 years its ran this good its like a real truck no junk

I figured its a fluke I let it sit for 1 1/2 hours engine still warm. I fired it up sounds good and smooth. I tried the back road again than back home I had no issues. I am thinking taking the highway under full power and lugging down to 40mph under a load on the engine is the issue? it must have a hard time recovering. It use to pop on the back road but I was running it at 3500 35-45mph. I don't know this is a hard case to figure out

I hope it keeps running this good and if I stay off the steep highway 6 mile grade

Guy's got a question?

First off Marry Christmas to you all, I got a thought running through my head last night. One the fuel pressure regulator I have a 4 inch rubber line from the main fuel line to the regulator with two hose clamps. This I don't understand there must not be much fuel pressure coming from the regulator? it has a quick disconnect on that line before the rubber hose. I got both clamps tight but still can move it back and forth. I was thinking maybe when the truck is under a load on the engine its sucking air through this line?

How does the FPR work? one is one a main line and the other a return line? why have a rubber hose in that area hate to have that blow apart it is now 14 years old when we changed it last

The truck is running a lot better now not taking the highway at least I can drive through town and back home without it popping

In nearly 20 years of living with a 2.9 every time I had a misfire a new fuel filter cleared up the problem.

88 XLT Ranger said:

Guy's got a question?

First off Marry Christmas to you all, I got a thought running through my head last night. One the fuel pressure regulator I have a 4 inch rubber line from the main fuel line to the regulator with two hose clamps. This I don't understand there must not be much fuel pressure coming from the regulator? it has a quick disconnect on that line before the rubber hose. I got both clamps tight but still can move it back and forth. I was thinking maybe when the truck is under a load on the engine its sucking air through this line?

How does the FPR work? one is one a main line and the other a return line? why have a rubber hose in that area hate to have that blow apart it is now 14 years old when we changed it last

The truck is running a lot better now not taking the highway at least I can drive through town and back home without it popping

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1) Marry is a woman. Merry is an emotional state. I think you may have wished us all a hooker for Christmas.

2) There shouldn't be any pressure after the regulator. Fuel comes in at one end of the fuel rail, and the regulator is positioned as a blockage in the return. It opens or closes with changes in engine vacuum to increase or decrease pressure. The pump pushing against that blockage is what makes pressure. After the regulator there should be no restrictions of any sort and so no pressure.

adsm08 said:

1) Marry is a woman. Merry is an emotional state. I think you may have wished us all a hooker for Christmas.

2) There shouldn't be any pressure after the regulator. Fuel comes in at one end of the fuel rail, and the regulator is positioned as a blockage in the return. It opens or closes with changes in engine vacuum to increase or decrease pressure. The pump pushing against that blockage is what makes pressure. After the regulator there should be no restrictions of any sort and so no pressure.

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Thanks for number (1) I do miss Marry


As for number (2) I do appreciate knowing more of how the FPR works. Now I know the rubber line is not an issue as I thought. I need to keep searching for the reason I am having issues off and on. I wish I had the fix like AllanD had its cost me $1000 thus far. The fuel filter was the first thing changed in my on going quest

Have you checked all the fuel lines for blockage? Could be a larger price of something that is starving it under certain conditions

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

Getting better guy's

I had another thought running through my head on fuel. I am at 4000ft elevation I have been running Chevron regular gas. My thought maybe it needs a higher octane fuel. Shell came out with there new performance V-Power Nitro+ Premium at 91 octane but said to be in reality 98 octane. I put a gal in with the regular Shell unleaded that was in the tank. I think after mixing with the other I had no popping issues today ran perfect more calm. I went and filled it with V-Power Nitro+ Premium before I came home

Does anyone els run the new performance V-Power Nitro+ Premium in there 2.9l V6 Ranger? there regular unleaded is 87 octane this is a good jump in octane level