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Tune up = worse gas mileage, wtf


tomw

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Since O2 sensors seem to be the thought for the day, how about using a VOM to measure the signal coming out of the O2 heading to the computer? I understand it should flicker back and forth between .1v and ~.9v, more or less. It will not work until it is hot enough, and the computer will work in 'open loop' until then. Once heated, it goes into 'closed loop' where the feedback from the O2 is used to help tune the engine injection parameters.
Does the engine seem to have the same power that it had previously? Any sort of hesitation or other performance issue?
Since your truck is a 1997, it should have OBD-II, and a reader/scanner should be able to tell you what is going on temp/fuel/spark, etc. I would hook up to a scanner and look at the long & short term fuel trims, the 'reported' coolant temperature, and so on.
If you think about this, the engine itself, valves, cylinders, etc, are the same as 'yesterday', so it is a fuel/timing/ignition condition that is different. The things changed are the plugs/wires/thermostat, water pump, and timing belt, more or less. The things that can make the most difference are the plugs & wires, and the stat. Plugs & wires would cause misfire, the stat low or slow warmup. If the 'rubber' gasket on the stat did not seal to the inside of the housing, you'll get leakage past the stat, slower warmup, and perhaps lower operating temperature.
I have removed the throttle body on mine, to change the cam cover gasket, and when putting it back together, used the old gasket. I can 'feel' the TB fit into the depressions on the gasket, and hold it there while tightening the weird nuts. If you have an air leak on one of the intake gaskets, you'd be getting a 'lean' condition from the O2's, yet the MAF would report only X.x liters of air coming in... Misfire in one cylinder can feed the O2's again a 'lean' condition, because there are O2 molecules that have not been consumed by combustion, so the computer will again add fuel to ALL cylinders to try to get rid of the 'lean'. EGR ports in the 3.8 are in the bottom of the intake, directly opposite the intake valves. They can clog, and then all the EGR gas is fed to the most open port... and causes misfire due to the gas, leading to excess O2's in the exhaust ... again telling the computer HEY!!! richen it up, I have extra O2s coming by, I can burn more fuel.... and produce a cleaner exhaust... So, one problem can lead to another completely off track, so to speak.
Pull the plugs and see if they look good. Nice, clean, slightly tan in color, with no oil or carbon 'fluff' deposits. If they differ, from that or one to the others, it may be an indicator of what's going on.
Some plug wires need to have the metal conductor closed up a bit to make good, continuous contact with the plug terminal. You do that by squeezing the boot, or by pushing the wire further onto the boot so the connector is exposed. (I prefer just the squeeze as plug wire is sort of delicate, being just fiber mixed with a carbon conductor)
If you have a high speed misfire, you may not be able to detect it without instruments.
tom
 


97ranger11

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Since O2 sensors seem to be the thought for the day, how about using a VOM to measure the signal coming out of the O2 heading to the computer? I understand it should flicker back and forth between .1v and ~.9v, more or less. It will not work until it is hot enough, and the computer will work in 'open loop' until then. Once heated, it goes into 'closed loop' where the feedback from the O2 is used to help tune the engine injection parameters.
Does the engine seem to have the same power that it had previously? Any sort of hesitation or other performance issue?
Since your truck is a 1997, it should have OBD-II, and a reader/scanner should be able to tell you what is going on temp/fuel/spark, etc. I would hook up to a scanner and look at the long & short term fuel trims, the 'reported' coolant temperature, and so on.
If you think about this, the engine itself, valves, cylinders, etc, are the same as 'yesterday', so it is a fuel/timing/ignition condition that is different. The things changed are the plugs/wires/thermostat, water pump, and timing belt, more or less. The things that can make the most difference are the plugs & wires, and the stat. Plugs & wires would cause misfire, the stat low or slow warmup. If the 'rubber' gasket on the stat did not seal to the inside of the housing, you'll get leakage past the stat, slower warmup, and perhaps lower operating temperature.
I have removed the throttle body on mine, to change the cam cover gasket, and when putting it back together, used the old gasket. I can 'feel' the TB fit into the depressions on the gasket, and hold it there while tightening the weird nuts. If you have an air leak on one of the intake gaskets, you'd be getting a 'lean' condition from the O2's, yet the MAF would report only X.x liters of air coming in... Misfire in one cylinder can feed the O2's again a 'lean' condition, because there are O2 molecules that have not been consumed by combustion, so the computer will again add fuel to ALL cylinders to try to get rid of the 'lean'. EGR ports in the 3.8 are in the bottom of the intake, directly opposite the intake valves. They can clog, and then all the EGR gas is fed to the most open port... and causes misfire due to the gas, leading to excess O2's in the exhaust ... again telling the computer HEY!!! richen it up, I have extra O2s coming by, I can burn more fuel.... and produce a cleaner exhaust... So, one problem can lead to another completely off track, so to speak.
Pull the plugs and see if they look good. Nice, clean, slightly tan in color, with no oil or carbon 'fluff' deposits. If they differ, from that or one to the others, it may be an indicator of what's going on.
Some plug wires need to have the metal conductor closed up a bit to make good, continuous contact with the plug terminal. You do that by squeezing the boot, or by pushing the wire further onto the boot so the connector is exposed. (I prefer just the squeeze as plug wire is sort of delicate, being just fiber mixed with a carbon conductor)
If you have a high speed misfire, you may not be able to detect it without instruments.
tom

As far as power and hesitation... it's always been slow as hell. No drastic difference it's hard to differentiate between doing 0-60 in 12 and 13 sec lol. Yeah I will try crimping the plug boots and pulling a plug to see how it looks.

I have never used an obd scanner, I can probably borrow one though. What do you mean by long and short term fuel trims?

I suppose cleaning the MAF again couldn't hurt. I only drove it a week or two between when I cleaned it and I did the tune up I suppose it's possible a piece of dirt got on the sensor when I pulled the intake off.
 

XLTsplash

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Yes, with the wire off the plug you can squeeze down on the boot where the band that snaps onto the plug is. Another way you can do it is to spray some spray silicone lube onto the boot and wire, then you will be able to side the boot up the wire so you can see the band that snaps onto the spark plug. Then squeeze down directly on the band if needed for a snug fit on the plug. After the band is snapped onto the spark plug you will be able to slide the boot back over the plug knowing that you have the nice tight connection. My 97 Ranger had the factory AWSF-32F spark plugs when I bought it with 125K miles on them. I also replaced my plugs with the Autolite Iridium XPs, Thinking I should get a little better MPG and maybe a little more power over the worn out factory plugs. The only gain I noticed was ignition noise in my radio. I talked to a spark plug sales rep. one time about spark plugs and he said sticking with factory type spark plugs is the best way to go. If you put platinum spark plugs with an ignition system that was designed with copper plugs you may not have as hot of a spark because of higher resistance in the plug. My factory AWSF-32F Motorcraft plugs were fine wire platinums. The Autolites are fine wire Iridium. And Ford has replaced the AWSF-32F with AWSF-32FM that's a fine wire platinum with a nickel plated shell. I wonder if a new set of factory type plugs would work better in our 2.3Ls.
A=14mm thread diameter
W=.708" thread reach
S=supressor (carbon)
F=conical seat
32=heat range 3=cold, 2=extended (power) tip
F=fine wire platinum center electrode
M=nickel plated shell
 
Last edited:

blairdeee

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97ranger11

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so what are the oem plugs for my truck?

I know they are platinum but there's a lot of types does anyone have a part number?
 

Mikel89us

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A local parts store can tell you. Or a ford dealership.
 

XLTsplash

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The updated part number for Motorcraft plugs is AGSF 32FM. I just bought a set today. The changes Ford made from the AWSF 32F are more treads on the plug and a nickel plated shell. I plan to install my Motorcraft plugs this weekend when I install my new cylinder head.
 

Dune Runner

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I just tuned my 4.0 up and used the Autolite single platinums. I gained 3 mpg over the crappy bosch that were in it.
 

tomw

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I vote with Dune runner... I won't use the 'special, neat-o multi-electrode' fancy plugs in any vehicle. I have heard of anecdotal reports that the Duratech 3.0 normally aspirated used in Escapes, etc, will have misfire using Bosch or NGK plugs. Autolites or Motorcrafts cured the problem. I think Motorcraft is factory.
When I went to the web site to check on what 'fit', I got mumble-badword results that stated a PILE of plugs would 'fit'. No help. The owners manual stated to look at the emissions sticker. Some plugs have a center electrode that is as fine as a needle or pin, and if you did not know it was there, you could break it off while re-gapping the plugs and the engine would run badly. A turbo T-bird had them when we did the cylinder head, and replacing the plugs was the solution that worked. I broke them off as I did not even see them. I don't know if they still make platinum plugs that way as it was 20+ years ago.
If you have a system that has 'waste' spark, and fires one half the plugs 'backwards' you might want to get 'dual platinum', i.e., on both electrodes for better service length.
tom
 

Mikel89us

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I use NGK plugs in everything. I use the coppers in my 2.3's (4 plug motors) and the ones in my racecar (600cc Honda street bike engine) I use the NGK stock style plug for those too. All I have ever used is NGKs.
 

97ranger11

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Just filled up... 19.2. Much better but still not happy. I was hoping to gain a couple mpg losing it is a real bummer.
 

97ranger11

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Well the MAF just shitted out on me. Was reading 0v. Just replaced it. I'm thinking that was the problem.
 

Mikel89us

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Well the MAF just shitted out on me. Was reading 0v. Just replaced it. I'm thinking that was the problem.
Awesome, let us know if it worked! Sucks you had to buy one.
 

97ranger11

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Awesome, let us know if it worked! Sucks you had to buy one.
yeah it does... 100 bucks.

my mpg this tank is gonna be a lot better. Last tank the light came on at 340. This tank I didn't hit the 1/4 tank mark until 330. But then the maf started acting up so I probably killed my average dicking around with it/driving it today.
 

97ranger11

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21.2 and I probably wasted atleast a gallon trying to get it to run right
 

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