Code p0353

robbo · Aug 25, 2013

This is a long story but I wanted you to have all the info to help guide me in the right direction.
1. My engine was running rough, especially up hill or with a load. And some time would run rough at idle or acceleration. During acceleration it would buck a little.
-checked for vacuum leaks with carb clean = nothing found
-checked for grounded out spark plug cable = nothing found
-cleaned aci valve helped little

couple weeks latter bucking was getting bad again during slow to moderate acceleration code popped misfire on ? it was drivers side bank I remember that much.
-checked cables = all good -cleared code still running a little rough, but some times where better then others
-gave aci valve a good clean = seamed a little better but ran a little rough and less bucking
-no more codes

today got a code for misfire on #3
-switched injectors #2 with #3 cleared code went for a drive got #3 misfire again (not injectors)
-tried to switch sparkplug cables #1 with #3 to see if the cable was bad = crank no start, then start ran supper rough for a couple of seconds then died
-swapped cables back = ran as rough as before when I got the misfire #3 code.
-cleared code
-drove home 1/4 mile CEL on got 0353 code checked electrical connections, all tight cleared code again got 0353 again
-cleared code got new coil pack still ran rough code 0353 again

any thoughts

RonD · Aug 25, 2013

Have you changed the spark plugs?

The ignition system does sound like the problem and it is pretty simple on these.
Coil gets 12v power when key is on, I would check that voltage at the coil.
The PCM(computer) controls when the coil fires, there is no "ignition module" any more.
Then you have the spark plug wires and the spark plugs, which do wear out.

The PCM could be bad but that's a last place to look, do plugs and wires since you got a new coil already, if problem persists then I would check fuel pressure, 60psi at the rail.
If that checks out then PCM would be the next stop

robbo · Aug 26, 2013

thanks for the quick reply.
I did the spark plugs a little before 100k its at 150k now. But your right that was the next step for me, I was thinking cables at first but then the 0353 code hit and through me for a loop. I'll check the voltage and try to get all that done tomorrow. Just a little upset spent the extra money for cables with life time warranty and the parts store doesn't have the record that I bought them. So got to pay full price again. Lesson learned keep receipt with the original box (have box but no receipt)

But I'll let you know what happens.

hope it's not the ecm

would crank sensor do the same?

RonD · Aug 26, 2013

Yes, crank(CKP) sensor is the "pulse" of the engine, but .........no it wouldn't cause this, when crank sensor fails you would get no spark/no start.
You would get a different code for that.

CPS(cam position sensor) is used to time the spark and fuel injectors, and could cause some of the problems but not all and there would be added codes.
Engine would still idle OK but would have poor power with timing being off.

My 4.0l eats spark plugs, low life for everything except autolite.
For the 3.0l I would use Autolite APP764, not cheap but they will last.

Plug wires usually last longer than the plugs.
And as an engine gets more miles on it will get more oil in the cylinders, that's just normal wear, keep PCV valve clean and the vent tube clean, this can help reduce pressure in the valve covers, reducing leaks but also reducing pressure on the valve guide seals.

robbo · Aug 26, 2013

Ok, so I checked the coil it's getting 12.?? volts, so all good.
replaced plugs, old ones were shot (the gap of the ones that came out were .055-.075 suppose to be .042-.046)

Replaced cables (found the lifetime warranty that I had so were free to do)

cleared the code 0353 then started it up and it was just a little bit better (probably b/c of the new spark plugs) I could hear the miss a little, still a little rough and I could smell unburned fuel and a sulfur smell. But no CEL. Took it for a test drive when it warmed up CEL went on, same 0353 code. CEL blinks almost all the time, but if at ideal (this is a M/T) it will blink for awhile then just go solid. Then it will be solid during slow acceleration for the first couple of gears then it will blink again.

robbo · Aug 26, 2013

Doing a quick search I don't see to many p0353 codes in the forums, has anyone had experience with this code?

RonD · Aug 26, 2013

Unhook the battery's negative cable for 5 minutes, to reset computer, then try it again.

No, I haven't seen any P0353 codes myself, but it reads like it is pretty specific in either a coil problem, a PCM to Coil wire problem or a PCM problem.

robbo · Aug 26, 2013

After I got the P0353 code after the test drive (I disconnected the battery before that drive) I cleared the code in a parking lot. When I got home checked the code again P0302 (misfire #2) this is a new code for me. Cleared that one and tried the battery thing again and after warm up got the P0353 again.

By the way checked the fuel pressure 65 psi.

Should I check the ground on the PCM? How do I go about doing that if so?

How about the diode and the pcm power relay is that some thing that I should be checking? and any tips on checking those.

I don't want to get a PCM just to plug and play, they are in the $300 range and I don't think that autozone will have a liberal return policy on those.

Thanks for all the help RonD

RonD · Aug 26, 2013

Well the diode and PCM(EEC) relay run off the same fuse as the coil but the coil power doesn't run thru the diode or EEC relay anymore.

I would test the 3 firing wires that go from the coil to the PCM, so unplug the PCM connector and coil connector, and make sure those wires are not shorted together, or grounded, and that each has continuity.

robbo · Aug 27, 2013

Thank you RonD for the help, I so sincerely appreciate it.

I just disconnected the battery and tested the 3 firing cables
-There where no pin numbers on the PCM so being lazy and it getting dark I did not check continuity on each. But I did...
-stuck the probes on each of the wires to see if they shorted together (i.e. blk probe on 1, red probe touched 2,3, then 4 and so on) and no shorts that way
-stuck the probe on one wire at a time and touched ground to see continuity, no beeping

The question I do have was without the battery connected (both + and- disconnected) I touched the power wire (red with light grn) and touched the ground and got beeping. Is that right or is that something that I should be worried about.

I did find moisture in the PCM connection, I dried that out. Might be my imagination but it seemed to run a little better after that. But still could here the miss and smell sulfur. Ran it to warm it up to get the CEL on again and got the P0353 code again.

Any more suggestions?

RonD · Aug 28, 2013

From the wiring diagram I have seen, yes you would get some continuity(beeping) from the hot wire at the coil and local ground.
The hot wire is connected to the power wire that turns on the EEC relay, via the Diode.

A relay coil is just one wire wound around a metal core then connected to ground, when power is added at the other end of the wire the coiled wire magnetizes the metal and closes the relay.

The 12v wire on the coil pack is connected to the EEC relay coil wire, so there would be high resistance but a connection to ground, so continuity.

Moisture in that inside the cab connection is not a good sign...........

You may be at the point where you need to pull out the PCM and open it to look at the inside, sometimes there are obvious signs of 'burn outs' or other corrosion.
You seem to have a scanner but not sure if you can test with live data to see if there are any faults with the PCM while engine is running.

robbo · Aug 28, 2013

My next thing is to give a good visual check on the connections and fuses and an over all visual of the electrical system. Then I will check the volts for the coil during cranking, I highly doubt any different but I want to look anyway to see if there is something totally weird.

Then I'll pop open the PCM for the obvious signs.

I do have a scanner. But not live action like you were saying, maybe I can rent one from an auto parts store to check this out, but I'll probably need assistance deciphering some of the graphs.

Thanks again Ron

robbo · Aug 28, 2013

Did the visual on the electrical, pushed a lot of connectors, fuses, and relays. All felt good.

For the fun of it plugged in my old coil and got a worse misfire then with my new (my new one is just a little diesel engine sounding, think vw jetta sound) and got the same code as before.

checked power to coil while cranking 10.5 volts 12.3 not cranking

Checked the other wires while cranking I got nothing, not sure what I should be getting.

I checked the auto parts stores around and none of them rent out the tools that do live or recordable scans anymore.

I'm going to do my last Hail Mary and try another new coil. Always been told, "Just because it's new doesn't mean it's good." Also, "10% of things that come from the manufacturer have something wrong with it." So I will get a new one from a different store, that way I am less likely to get one from the same bad batch. It's happened a couple of times at an auto shop that I worked at, a whole shelf full of bad alternators and starters from one model number.

After that I'll pop open the PCM and look inside then start looking for a PCM I guess. Anything else to check? I'll try any guesses.

Thanks Robby

Rearanger · Aug 29, 2013

After all you've replaced/switched I think if the coil were bad you'd get a miss on the alternate cylinder as well with a waste spark system.

I'd do a compression test.

robbo · Aug 29, 2013

good call I'll check that tomorrow. Never would of thought of that. Thanks

Code p0353

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