Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and - Joined
- Sep 26, 2013
- Messages
- 240
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- 1
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- Location
- Prattville, AL
- Vehicle Year
- 1983
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Engine Size
- V6 2.8L
- Transmission
- Automatic
I'm impressed...looking really good!!
I'm no expert when it comes to the painting, but I've been doing a lot of research on it in prep for my 83.
I think as a general rule, shooting an epoxy primer/sealer is best for DTM (or any surface really), but there are some solid DTM non-epoxy primers out there. I plan on using Eastwood's polyester contour over metal, filler, and oem paint prepped w/ 120-grit paper. Following that with a 2-stage urethane.
Also: be sure to read the tech sheet on whichever paint you're using. Some (like the epoxys) are good for 5 or so days before you have to re-scuff and re-seal or primer; other paints, like the urethanes have very short recoat windows (less than 24 hours)...
add on: if i'm not mistaken (and i'm pretty sure i'm not), you should seal, then prime, then base, then clear.
I'm no expert when it comes to the painting, but I've been doing a lot of research on it in prep for my 83.
I think as a general rule, shooting an epoxy primer/sealer is best for DTM (or any surface really), but there are some solid DTM non-epoxy primers out there. I plan on using Eastwood's polyester contour over metal, filler, and oem paint prepped w/ 120-grit paper. Following that with a 2-stage urethane.
Also: be sure to read the tech sheet on whichever paint you're using. Some (like the epoxys) are good for 5 or so days before you have to re-scuff and re-seal or primer; other paints, like the urethanes have very short recoat windows (less than 24 hours)...
add on: if i'm not mistaken (and i'm pretty sure i'm not), you should seal, then prime, then base, then clear.
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