Shouldn't be much in 1984
The positive battery cable runs to the Starter Relay(solenoid) on the inner fender, that post it is connected to is the 12v Power Distribution for the whole vehicle
So all the other wires on that post send 12v out to systems full time, alternator is also connected there
Head light switch
Dome and glove box lights, hood light if there is one
Radio KAM(keep alive memory), it holds radio pre-sets and clock time.
Ignition switch has power full time on one side
Brake pedal switch.
You can use a test light to check battery flow, or volt/amp meter
Key off
Disconnect either battery cable, ground is best, then hook 12volt test light between cable end and it's battery terminal, it should light up a bit if there is just a small draw, brighter it is the bigger the draw.
Then start unplugging fuses, in engine fuse box first, test light will get dimmer if power was flowing thru that fuse.
And/or unhook the wires on the starter relay post
Also just a heads up, Batteries can be self draining, they get an internal short between two plates and slowing drain power.
And this can "act like" a parasitic draw, i.e. battery charges fine and starts engine fine after 1 to 5 hours, but overnight, 8+ hours, it won't start engine, battery is too low
With either battery cable disconnected put a volt meter on battery and watch voltage, should stay stable, leave it for a few minutes then check again, if voltage is going down battery has an internal short, for sure.
Seen this on older batteries mostly but did have one new battery that had a short inside
The plates inside the battery are very close together and any debris inside can cause the short, and as a battery gets older there is a build up on the plates from charging and discharging that can "grow" and touch, which causes the short.