No A/C Function on a 1993 Ranger Splash

Tom1993 · Jun 3, 2008

Well, It's gettin' hot here, and I tried to cool down the Ranger by pressing that A/C-Button. The red control-light turns on (near the Blower/AC switch) but nothing happens.

The engines usally drops a little down, then a little faster, when the Clutch on the compressor starts to work...
Nothing & No cold air.
I checked the Fuses, and checked the Compressor.
There is no power on the cable, as it seems... so, it's clear, the clutch won't work.

That's the End of my Idea's... is the Switch in the Dashboard broken ?
Is there a Relay ? (The Relay in the Power-Distibution-Box is Working) or any "circuit-breaker" for Low-Pressure ?

How to check ?

Thanks for any hint.

Greetings from Germany, Tom

(And sorry, if my english isn't the best...)

MAKG · Jun 3, 2008

Yes, there is a low-pressure switch attached to the receiver/drier, near the low side service port.

Check (with an ohmmeter) whether the pressure switch is closed. If it isn't, check the low-side pressure to see if there is actually any refrigerant in there. If it is, check for voltage at the compressor clutch.

Tom1993 · Jun 3, 2008

Okay, thanks for the Hint...

I'll check the Switch, and if our Climate-Company comes at Work, I'll ask them to check pressure.

There is no power arriving at the compressor-clutch. I used the small messure-ligth (because of the needle in Front) :no2:

, but no reaction.

So I hoped, it's an electrical problem. Refilling R12 is illegal in Germany.

I keep searching.

Thanks, Tom

MAKG · Jun 3, 2008

It's possible to retrofit to R-134a. As long as you fix any leaks first.

Tom1993 · Jun 3, 2008

WOW !!!

You're really faaast with the answers !

Is there allready a Thread, what to do for R-134a ?
Do I need to change parts ? (I'll get them here, but it mostly takes some time !)

Greetings Tom

MAKG · Jun 3, 2008

See the sticky at the top of the forum. Of course EU regulations may be different from those mentioned in the article.

Whether you need to change parts depends upon what is currently wrong. You will need to change some parts regardless (mainly the dessicator; once used, it doesn't do anything), but they aren't all that expensive.

Tom1993 · Jun 9, 2008

Okay, I talked to a A/C-Service here...

they say, they will do the following:
evaporate the System go get out all the R12 filling.
Then flush the A/C-System with there machine without any dismount of Parts and evaporate again.

After this, they'll fill up with R134a and check for Leaks.

Is that a right way to handle ?

How much should they fill up (or to which pressure) ?

Thanks, Tom

RobbieD · Jun 9, 2008

As MAKG pointed out, the drier (aka accumulator, dessicant tank) should absolutely be replaced; and, refrigerant oil that's compatible with R134 must replace the original oil.

A conversion from R12 to R134 should also include changing the system's o-rings to R134 compatible ones, and a new orfice tube (since you're in there anyway, and they're cheap). I just don't know about a flush with all parts in place; I don't see how that will get all of the old oil out.

The original R12 charge for a 1993 model was 2 lbs. (32 oz. or 9.07 kg), along with 7 oz. (207 ml) of referigant oil. But, it would be best for you to check for a decal on the evaporator housing, which lists the system specifications.

Willkommen to TRS, and Viel Glück!

MAKG · Jun 9, 2008

And FYI, changing all the O-rings is not a large amount of effort.

You CANNOT flush the system well with everything connected.

Tom1993 · Jun 9, 2008

Hello...

Yes, I found out... the guy who wanted to change the System today couldn't, because his Machine gave up today.

So I screwed around a little for another A/C-Shop, and found a Guy, who'll make a complete Retro-Fit with new valves, new dryer complete pressure Check & fixing a Leak (as long, as it is not the compressor or condenser) for 'bout 150-200 Euro's (that's 200-300 Dollar).
Flushing and also a new oil, which is compatible to both, Older Ester- and Minaral-Oil as well as R134a will be used.
He messured the clutch already, an it's working fine. The switch in the Dashboard works, too. It' "only" no pressure in the System.

Sounds professional for me, and the price is fair, I think.
Need to drive my Ranger for a while longer, because I never mind to drive such stuff like Volkswagen, and the ranger is good for 25 mpg's, too.
Something "bigger" is not longer effortable, as we already have Gas at 8,50 $ a Gallon (so be Lucky with the 2,80 there !!!!)
I'll think, I'll do it this way... seems the best option.

Thanks a Lot for your help Folks !

Greetz from Berlin,
Tom

RobbieD · Jun 9, 2008

If you prefer a Ranger over a Volkswagen, you're OK in my book!

This new mechanic sounds like he's worth trying (especially if he gives a warranty on his work- do check on this).

Good luck with it, and by all means visit here often.

Tom1993 · Jun 9, 2008

@ Robbie:

I read your article twice: What's the Orfice Tube ?

And thanks for Translation from LBS to kg. A little fault: It's 0.907 KG.
To put in 20 lbs could be a Funny Event...
:blush:

Yeah... I love the American Cars ! My other one's a 57 Chevy Two-Ten.

AND I can't understand, why everybody's running for Volkswagen or Mercedes in the US. It's allways a fight in Vacation, to get a Chevy or something in the Car Rental. They're really confused, if I refuse a Japanese Car, and ask for the Old(er) Ford or Chevy in the Corner over there.

I've been here for a longer time already, but my old Nick Cruise-In doesn't work any more, so I registered completely new.

RobbieD · Jun 9, 2008

The orfice tube is the referigant metering valve which goes into the evaporator inlet.

Thanks for correcting my typo mistake, and hang on to that '57 Chevy. Those cars are worth a lot of money these days.

No A/C Function on a 1993 Ranger Splash

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