Clutch master hyd hose to slave retaining pin stuck

Trfsrfr · Feb 13, 2015

I have this 93 that I'm replacing the original clutch master cylinder. I bought the 50 dollar Autozone replacement. The hydraulic hose to the slave is held in by a dowel pin, but it is being stubborn, and theres no room to get something in there to pound it out.
Since the original is a plastic version, I figured I would just take the sawzall or equivalent to the connection bung and hack it off since I cant drive the dowel pin through.
Anybody else done this before?

adsm08 · Feb 13, 2015

I usually use a tack and drive it in with a hammer, it will push the pin out and then you can pull the tack with a claw hammer.

alwaysFlOoReD · Feb 13, 2015

I used a nail of the right diameter, cut down in length, and some big pliars. It was a pain but I got it out and in.

Trfsrfr · Feb 13, 2015

pics

@adsm08-
There is no room to pound, but the dowel pin is more prominent on the bottom side (maybe a 32nd), so if I need to grab and pull that side (although not accessible) would be the easiest. I figured I would save time by cutting the plastic bung off then use a set of dikes or whatever to remove the remaining attached piece of plastic.
Or I could disconnect it from the firewall and then try to remove it then???
I figured this way would lose the rigidity of having it secure to the firewall.
This truck has a super rusty frame and underparts and I'm fairly certain it spent the majority of it's 160k sitting in a field in Kansas. So im sure everything is in a state of being seized...

@alwaysFlOoReD-
That was the pain in the ass I was looking to avoid by just cutting the plastic parts out.

I did put some knock-em loose on it.

Pics attached.

Andy D · Feb 13, 2015

The curved steel lead with the slip joint was too rusty despite all attempts to save it . Rassen frassing Auto Zone hose was 40 $. The MC was new.so a hose just made the clutch job the most complete and expensive replacement of a clutch I had ever done. I managed to drive the pin out. I used up a can of PB Blaster on the job. I had the Y pipe out. and the rails were blocked up 2 feet high. A 6 penny nail makes a good driver and a regular 16 oz claw hammer is a useful tool.

I am partway to getting the E-brake working . All new hardware except for this sheet metal Geezus clip of an equalizer. I need to adjust the brakes. The rear end is on jack stands, with loose lugs and backed off brakes. Then it got cold, then it snowed.It is covered in snow. My old Ariens with a Chonda grafted onto it is getting more miles put on it than the Rat.

Trfsrfr · Feb 14, 2015

Okay, I got it out and replaced the master. Then flushed it with air pressure.
Now I am having problems bleeding it.
I gravity bled it first, and had my kid pump the pedal a thousand times, but the pedal is still mushy as hell.
Anybody else had this issue and have a fix?

Trfsrfr · Feb 14, 2015

I think I might know what the problem is;
After I removed the master and cleaned the reservoir, I attached the master end of the reservoir hose to the hose that goes to the slave, and put my mouth on the res and blew in some pressure to help flush the system before I installed the new master.
But now as I think about it, if the hose going to the slave is lower than the uppermost part of where the fluid in the slave goes, that would create an air pocket.
Has anybody done this?
In my mind I would either have to flip the entire truck upside down and bleed it, or reverse bleed it through the bleeder screw (applying a pressurized fluid from the bleeder up to the reservoir).
Does that make sense?

alwaysFlOoReD · Feb 15, 2015

Depending on the bleeder screw reverse bleeding works. I've also used vacuum bleeding. The master cylinder design makes it hard to bleed properly once installed in the truck. Bench bleeding is the solution;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=91IYY_YENRw

Mrtin · Feb 15, 2015

bench bleed

I second the advice to bench bleed. You'd remove the master and the line and bleed them as an assembly. The procedure in that linked video really lets you be confident there is no air in MC or line. I think that would be the easiest thing for you to do, which is just to say it worked for me.

Trfsrfr · Feb 15, 2015

Lets say I want to find a way to bleed it in the truck because I REALLY dont want to remove it again.
Any advice on a good way to do it?

black_demon69 · Feb 15, 2015

Trfsrfr said:
Lets say I want to find a way to bleed it in the truck because I REALLY dont want to remove it again.
Any advice on a good way to do it?

Best way in truck is to remove master from firewall and position with inlet and outlet up. May also need to disconnect from pedal and actuate by hand. Also bleeder at slave needs To be opened when pressure is put on rod and held then tightened before rod is released...

alwaysFlOoReD · Feb 15, 2015

Homemade engine vacuum bleeder;

Engine vacuum hose to the short air fitting, bleeder hose to long fitting. Engine running and bleeder cracked open making sure master is full at all times. Also works for bleeding brakes. Use silicone caulk to seal around fitting to mason jar lid.

alwaysFlOoReD · Feb 15, 2015

And another way;
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=159251

Trfsrfr · Feb 18, 2015

Thank you all for the replies. I had to make alternate arrangements because I couldn't get it fixed that night, but it still needs to be fixed.
@black_demon69 - Are you saying to remove the master and hold it in an upright position, then bleed as normal by hand?
I could try this.
just dont want to have to mess with removing the dowel pin at the output hose.

I could also try the technique in the kink offered by alwaysFlOoReD, removing the retaining clip and removing the plunger, but I am unclear on how opening the system would not allow air into it?

I would like to try bleeding it again tonight so if anyone has any additional info or response, I am all ears. I need to get this thing out of my garage!

Trfsrfr · Feb 18, 2015

A better understanding now, bench bleeding video.

I just found this video, and it definitely explains everything. And now I see the reason that bench bleeding is best. This is a poorly designed system. I wish I would've known this before I installed the pushrod.
And I dont have the quick disconnect clip like the truck in the video does, but I'll figure it out.

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/91IYY_YENRw?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Clutch master hyd hose to slave retaining pin stuck

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