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Xltr


XLTR

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New to site and new to having a ranger. I have read some about lifting ranger and it appears that in 2008 they clocked the torsion key. I have 2009, 4x4 can I still get any lift from tightening the adjustment bolt? How much, what size tire will it handle?
 


RonD

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Welcome to TRS :)

Adjusting "spring" settings "up" makes for stiffer ride, so not the best way to get lift

Up at the top of each page here is a link to "HOW TO TECH" section

On that page you will find many "how-tos" by members
This section should be of interest to you: http://www.therangerstation.com/how-to/suspension-and-body-lifts/

Also in the "how-to" area is this: http://www.therangerstation.com/how-to/wheels_and_brakes/

Check out Tire Fitment


Point of suspension is to balance the weight of the vehicle on the springs, so springs can absorb bumps using vehicle weight to defect the springs.
Too much spring for the weight and you might as well just weld some steel bars in for "suspension", lol, vehicle is too light to defect the springs.
And thats a problem "they" run into in Trucks, rear weight of Ranger pickup trucks can very by 1,000lbs, 1/2 ton rating
If you spring it for 1,000lbs then it will be over-sprung when bed is empty, and it will have a horrible ride, which some do.
Trick is to use empty weight springs/leafs and then add an overload leaf that doesn't touch the frame until load exceeds say 600lbs
So you get the good ride, and good traction, when bed is mostly empty, but can carry a load when needed
Traction happens when tires are on the ground :)
If there is too much spring then tires lift off the ground on bumps, and you loose traction
And that applies to front or back wheels
 
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pjtoledo

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a result of adjusting the torsion keys for lift is it screws up the suspension travel.
I'm going to use approximate numbers for this example.

the front suspension only has about 8 inches total travel. up travel is determined by the bumbstop, lower is determined by the shock absorber at its max extension. normal ride height is in the middle, so a bump can push the wheel up 4", and a hole 4" deep drops the wheel. the body doesn't have to move for either of these scenarios.

now crank the keys and lift the front 2".

you now have 6" of up travel, great for bigger bumps. but only 2" of down travel. hit that 4" hole and the wheel only drops 2" which leaves the wheel hanging in the air,,,sort of. since the spring accelerates the wheels downward travel, when the wheel hits the shocks lower limit it doesn't stop, it keeps going and jerks the front of the truck down with it. concerning deep holes, the result of cranking the T bars is that instead of the suspension absorbing the hole the front of the truck has to drop. plus articulation takes a hit and the upper ball joint is maxed out.

its all about of compromises, adjust one thing and it affects something else.
 

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