Suddenly lost 99% or braking power!

pjtoledo · Dec 17, 2016

its too late for you now, but this may help someone in the future.
for the bleeders clean out the hole real good, then shoot some of the newer freeze type release stuff in the hole. that causes the bleeder to shrink inside the hole.
use a 6 point wrench, they put almost all the force on twisting the bleeder unlike using a socket which splits the force between twisting and breaking it off sideways.

E83 · Dec 17, 2016

I am sure once I get this bleeder out there will be something else keeping this project from completion (ie being able to plow my driveway).

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E83 · Dec 17, 2016

Vice grip was no go. Just made it rounder.

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E83 · Dec 18, 2016

Picked up a small torch today. Was thinking of taking the mini grinder and flattening two sides of the nut so Ibxan get an adjustable wrench on it and heating and flash cooling a few times

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RonD · Dec 18, 2016

Old exhaust shop trick is to use candle wax, paraffin or beeswax, on rusted threads.

Heat it up then touch candle to threads, heat will suck the wax into the threads and help loosen them

pjtoledo · Dec 18, 2016

E83 said:
Vice grip was no go. Just made it rounder.

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use a small pipe wrench, about 8-10" or so. at the very least you should be able to break off what's left of the bleeder. :bawling:

hint, use a real pipe wrench, not channel-locks

then pound a short piece of an allen wrench into the hole, repeat pipe wrench trick.

how much are rebuilt calipers??? :icon_idea:

E83 · Dec 18, 2016

Was thinking about replacing the caliper but I imagine they are likely ceased on as well, the flex hose I am sure would also be ceased on and who knows what else. Trying for the cheapest easiest way to the finish line for this old plow.

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Mark_88 · Dec 18, 2016

cheapest way...cap the line at the other side...or cut the line, flare it and put a line connector with a plug...pull the caliper and you can work on it and still use the truck as long as the other three wheels have brakes....

Worst case scenario on one wheel is that you have to replace the caliper, flex line, and the mount hardware. But you can do that at your leisure as funds allow...if at all or ever...

You won't be the first to drive a plow truck with only three or two wheels braking...lol

E83 · Dec 19, 2016

I may end up capping it permanently if I cant get this bleeder to come free

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Mark_88 · Dec 19, 2016

At this point I would consider removing the caliper and the flex line. You can get a joint connector for the end of the line and just put a plug in at that point. Once you do that you can top up the fluid and probably have enough brakes to use the truck...unless you have some steep hills where you are plowing.

the flex line and caliper are easy to remove as one piece if you don't want to disturb that part of it...where the line connects to the shock tower...if I recall correctly, is just a clip...may be a bolt on there somewhere but you can run a wire wheel over it or wire brush to clean it up and use some penetrating oil to loosen it up...or just cut that off and replace it later...the brake line can be affixed to the tower with zip ties for all the stress it has...even with the movement of the flex lines they don't actually move or travel much.

I'm sure you can appreciate why many people choose to remove the old stuff and replace it rather than dealing with a continuing string of repairs just to do a simple job...but with your new flare tool you can also do a bit of patching and creative uses for those joint connectors...

Andy D · Dec 20, 2016

If you haven't sheared off the bleeders, use them for cores. Remans were 19 $ at Auto zone. Before I started fixing the frame, the brakes worked fine. Right now they work even better. The only parts I saved was the rear brake hose and the MC. I have never done that much brake work all at once. I didn't shop , I went down town to Auto Zone and bought parts. They are cheap, but there is a zillion of them.
OR
If it is a yard vehicle only, cap the rear line. Chances are the hardware under the drums is just flakes of rust. Whatever. If you want to keep the front calipers. fill them with brake fluid, using a squirt bottle just before putting the previously gravity bled hose on. If you can get the bleeders free with heat, fine. I had the hose explode because I boiled the fluid. Also , I've heard that some calipers use plastic pistons. I have never managed to remove a sheared bleeder. And Ive tried a few times. When I could see the bleeders begin to twist in the middle. I threw in the towel, and I headed to the.Zone for more pieces.

E83 · Dec 21, 2016

Well success sort of. I couldnt get the bleeder free on the pass side so I loosened the flex hose connection, pumped the brakes until I had lots of fluid running out of the loosened connection then tightened it up. Made sure the reservoir still has lots of fluid and properly bled the drivers side. All seems to be working now. Though I am sure I have a bit of air in the line still as the brakes now seem rear biased... The rear is locking up really easily on the dirt road but atleast I have brakes again! I may take another stab at the bleeder in the spring when it warms up and get the lines properly bled. Otherwise I am just going to pile a load of sandbags in the bed to give the rear tires some bight. The bias could also just be an illusion since the plow is throwing the weight balance off.

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RonD · Dec 21, 2016

Yes, I think the weight in the back will balance things out.

With the extra weight on the front the back wheels are probably barely touching the ground, lol, so would lock up with minimal brake pressure

Mark_88 · Dec 21, 2016

Good work on the fix :icon_thumby:

I usually let the bed fill up with snow so it has plenty of weight over the rear wheels...never had a traction problem in a 2wd Ranger with the box full...

Suddenly lost 99% or braking power!

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