1999 2.5 Liter NO Spark

nbates55 · Oct 19, 2015

Well, I had another thread with a fuel pump problem, but that thread died.
So, I have the new fuel pump in (the old one literally melted down) and found that it needed a new inertia switch as that had melted some too. I now have fuel at the motor, no problem. Now I dont have any spark at the plug wires. All fuses check out good. Just before the wires on the old fuel pump melted in two, I got it to run a little bit but of course it quit when it lost connection. So it was firing then. Its been sitting 3 weeks, but dont see how that would hurt it. Charged the battery. Everything seems good except no spark. I guess somehow the computer is fried. Cant be something cheap or simple, not my luck. But Im open to ideas. :dunno:

RonD · Oct 19, 2015

The Lima 2.3l and 2.5l dual coil pack engines only use the Exhaust side spark plugs/coil pack when starting.
Intake side will come on after engine RPMs are above 500.

So when testing for spark you need to test exhaust side.
If no spark swap coil packs and test again.

If still no spark then there are only 2 things left on a 1999
Crank position sensor(CKP)
Computer(EEC-V)

CKP reads crank position so computer knows when to send spark to #1 and the other 3 cylinders.
It is on the passenger side front of engine.

BUT..........pull out a spark plug, if it is wet with gasoline after cranking engine then the CKP is working, CKP also times fuel injectors, so no CKP = no spark and no fuel.

Computer would be last on the list, they don't fail often, but rarely failing is not NEVER failing, no way I know of to test computer, even out of the vehicle.
Does CEL(check engine light) come on when the key is turned on, and then go out after a few seconds?
That means computer is at least starting up.

nbates55 · Oct 20, 2015

Coil Packs, Etc.

I didnt know that. I was checking the front coil pack. That may have been the wrong one to be checking. Ill check the rear one tomorrow.
On the check engine light, Ive never seen one on it, dont even know where at in the instrument cluster it would be. I would assume the bulb is burned out since all fuses check as good.
Sounds like some helpful info. Thanks for your response! :dunno:

Big Jim M · Oct 20, 2015

Ha!

nbates55 said:
I didnt know that. I was checking the front coil pack. That may have been the wrong one to be checking. Ill check the rear one tomorrow.
On the check engine light, Ive never seen one on it, dont even know where at in the instrument cluster it would be. I would assume the bulb is burned out since all fuses check as good.
Sounds like some helpful info. Thanks for your response!

Bates 55 do you remember how we spell ASSUME?
Big Jim :wub:

nbates55 · Oct 21, 2015

Yeah

I also know Im about tired of fooling with this truck and not making any progress. :icon_surprised:

nbates55 · Oct 24, 2015

Finally got a chance to check the right side for firing. Dead as a hammer. I guess the next thing Ill do is pull the instrument cluster and see if the check engine bulb is shot, because it has never come on since Ive had the truck. Maybe that will give a little clue.

RonD · Oct 24, 2015

Or just go to auto parts store and they will read the computer codes for free, WRITE THEM DOWN, and do not purchase any parts at that time, even if code says: "buy this part now or die"
Post codes here for info on what they mean, because they rarely mean what they "say"

EDIT:
OOPS, my bad truck doesn't run
See if you can get a loan of OBDII reader from parts store, they are easy to use.

nbates55 · Oct 24, 2015

Check Engine Light

Well, per your earlier instructions to see if the check engine light was coming on to maybe tell if the computer was even starting up, I assume the bulb has been burned out for years as Ive never seen it on since Ive had the truck (since 2012). So I go to check/change the bulb. I think rebuilding the engine would be easier. No wonder nobody ever tried to replace it. It will take me a week to take the whole dash apart just to get at the bulbs. Its never easy working in a dash on any of them, but Ive never seen such a poor design.
If I can ever get access, Ill check and/or change the bulb.
I doubt anybody around here will loan out a code reader. O'reillys might rent one with a few hundred dollars deposit, dont know.
Chances are, its a burned wire. The wires at the inertia switch melted the insulation off them and part of the plug, and apparently something inside the switch itself as I could not even get the fuel pump to run until I put another inertia switch in it. While Im taking the dash apart, I may as well take all of it out so I can see the back side of the computer inside the truck. The part on the outside I can see on the firewall, the wires all look o.k..
I guess it depends on what motor you have, but on the 99 model they had at the junkyard, the computer was mounted on the passenger side kick panel. Looked much easier to get to than this. Of course, I have to have one thats a S.O.B..
Ive been told that a computer from the junkyard or the parts house wont work unless its "programmed". But Im doubting that, as long as its from a truck the same model year and same running gear.
O.k., yalls turn

RonD · Oct 24, 2015

If you have the computer connector that is on the firewall those were known for water getting into the connector, Ford actually added a cover plate to them because of that issue.

Well if you are taking the dash apart change the heater core.

You can buy OBD II Bluetooth scanners for $10-$25, then read the codes or watch live data on your smartphone, android or iOS.
But check the price of the APP, they run from free to $100
They work on any vehicle 1995 and up, so not just for Ford

nbates55 · Nov 8, 2015

Spark/Fuel Issue Resolved!

:yahoo:

FINALLY got this truck running this afternoon. As noted earlier, I had replaced the entire fuel pump assembly in the tank and the inertia switch. Had gas, but then no spark. Finally figured out why the truck wasnt firing. Fuses. Not a bad fuse, but a missing fuse! A while back, my mechanic friend and I was hunting for more bad wires, like the ones that melted at the inertia switch. I was under the hood with an ohm meter in series with the hot side of the battery watching amp draw as he pulled and replaced the fuses in the fuse block by the drivers door. Did find 3 that were drawing power, but not a lot, so probably normal drain for computer, radio, etc.. We went thru them twice. Pulling and replacing. What happened was, theres about 4 sockets that have no fuse in them as they are for options thats not on this truck. Apparently he put one back in the wrong hole, instead of the hole it needed to be in. I didnt have my diagram with me today, but had plenty of new fuses, so I just stuck one in every hole in the fuse block. Tried it and it didnt turn a half a round and fired right up! Something SO simple. Always check the simplest and most obvious stuff first. Then check it two or three more times just to be sure!

RonD · Nov 8, 2015

Good work

But I would be interested to know what fuse that was, for future reference.

I can't think of any fuse that would only effect spark and be in the cab fuse panel as well.

Maybe Fuse #19 25amp??

nbates55 · Nov 12, 2015

It was in roughly the middle of the fuse block. Dont remember exactly, but I may be able to find out. I used a brand of fuses that have a slightly different color and look from the rest of them, so I may be able to tell you later when I have a chance to go look.
If memory serves, there is a fuse in there for the computer tho.

nbates55 · Nov 14, 2015

Fuses 13 and 19 both are for the powertrain control module. 19 is the one he messed up on, left out and put in an unused hole near it. Also, my check engine light has never worked. I found that the OBD II (number 5) fuse was missing. Put one in it, but still no light. No doubt the bulb is shot. And apparently the entire dash has to be removed to get the cluster out to replace the bulb. So, it will never work as long as I own the truck, lol.
One would think that they couldnt get any codes with that fuse out, but thats not the case. I took it to O'reillys about an hour before I discovered this, and he had no trouble getting codes. Nothing serious, and nothing about that blasted fuel pump! I take it as good news!

RonD · Nov 15, 2015

Thanks for the update

1999 2.5 Liter NO Spark

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