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Dual Center Pins in Leaf Spring to Relocate Axle


bobbywalter

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its a key point plum...



and i left out, i regularly destroy springs because i dont properly bump stop them generally....it is also a reason you want to carefully single leaf cycle your suspension if you want maximum safe wheel travel. its easy to mess the springs up and yours are not cheap....i run junkyard stuff and have piles of leafs to work with, if i had a 5-700 dollar set of springs the would be limited in travel for sure.
 


cammeddrz

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PlumCrazy said:
I forgot to mention...I added a single traction bar with a shackle. My springs were super soft and had a HUGE arch. so my rear U joint would actually bind under semi aggressive acceleration.
Click to expand...
my same problem as well, but I opted for a "slip-n-twist" rather than a shackle. the slip-n-twist when properly set up is the only way to maintain absolutely perfect pinion angle throughout the entire cycle of the suspension
 
PlumCrazy

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Ideally my shackle should ne longer, but it would cause driveshaft clearance issues. I have been rocking this setup for 2 years of aggressive wheeling with out a U joint failure. I "should" add longer rear bump stops, but its kind of too late. I already have a 3" driver rear lean and had to replace a snapped leaf back there.lol
 
cammeddrz

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yeah, the shackle is "close enough" for most guys. and is the most commonly accepted choice

the slip-n-twist is anchored exactly parallel with the t-case u-joint, and the lower tube is placed in such a way that it is in-line with the pinion 100%. you usually then use a bushing just like a shackle has on the ends, and it is 2 pieces so the tubes sleeve together (like your driveshaft slip-joint). and also allows it to twist because they are just sleeved together. so not only do you get the little bit of twist from the bushings, you get full twist allowing for less hurting of flex.

but it never allows for the pinion angle to deviate. a shackle's pivot is constantly moving back/forth
and most guys don't try to line them up with their pinions. They usually just find a spot on the diff, and say "i'll weld it there"

a slip-n-twist runs parallel to the driveshaft allowing you to put a driveshaft-hoop on it, as well as use it to provide driveshaft protection if you want.

they are pretty neat.
 
PlumCrazy

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I would be worried about getting dirt/grime in the slip or tweaking it on a rock to the point in no longer slides freely.

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk
 
cammeddrz

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its a tight/greased fit of 2-sizes DOM tube. nothing gets in there. You can also use a "fork skin" which is a neoprene sleeve that keeps water, and dirt out of it. they are originally intended for motorcycle forks, but they work great.

it sleeves so high up by the t-case it isn't very vulnerable, and anything that would hurt that would hurt your driveshaft (which is right beside it) anyway
 
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rangeron33s

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Wouldn't dropping the front of the spring down about an inch work?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using Tapatalk 2
 
scotts90ranger

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When I put my rear suspension together I drilled the pin in the center but with the rearched (added something random a buddy had around under the main leaf) Explorer leaf pack that ended up putting the axle too far forward, had to drill a hole forward about an inch to center it in the wheel well, doing that you don't have to do anything to the top plate, it's been working just fine for a long time...
 
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