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ABS Troubleshooting?


nola mike

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'97 Ranger 4.0L 4wd.
ABS light has been on for a week or so. For some reason, I'm having a hard time finding good troubleshooting info. Pretty sure I have RABS, how can I confirm?

1. Pulling codes. Not sure how to do this on this model? Do I have the jumper-able connector? Under the parking brake pedal, from what I've read. I couldn't find it on my first quick look. OR do I need an abs scan tool? (or will either work)
2. Do I have a speed sensor in the rear diff? Or are there just 2 at the brakes?
3. Where is the ABS control module?

Tomorrow I'm going to just do a quick visual inspection to start, esp at the rear sensors. I use this rig to put the boat in brackish water, so plenty of opportunity for corrosion. Also wanted to check connectors--

4. are there separate ABS connections at the control module and the master cylinder?

Any other thoughts? No, pulling the bulb isn't an option for me.
 


adsm08

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1) You cannot start (or even pretend to start) any meaningful or accurate diagnosis of this issue without getting the codes. Without those you are guessing, plain and simple. Codes can be retrieved with a scanner that does ABS codes through the OBDII connector. I don't think the ABS had it's own diagnostic connector in 97.

2) The front may or may not have sensors at each front wheel. It depends on the answer to the question RABS or 4WABS. The rear has a single sensor in top of the diff. These are known for failure.

3) Under the hood, behind the passenger airbag, they moved around a bit.

4)Not sure I understand the question. The hydraulic unit will have brake lines that go from the master cylinder through the hydraulic control unit (HCU) and then out to the wheels. A RABS system will be a small box on the fender with one line in and one out, a 4WABS unit will be a larger block with two lines in and 3 out for a total of 5. Aside from the low fluid sensor and the auxiliary cruise deactivation switch there should be no electrical connections at the master cylinder.

And pulling the bulb is always an option. Usually the best option.
 

nola mike

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1) You cannot start (or even pretend to start) any meaningful or accurate diagnosis of this issue without getting the codes. Without those you are guessing, plain and simple. Codes can be retrieved with a scanner that does ABS codes through the OBDII connector. I don't think the ABS had it's own diagnostic connector in 97.
Yeah, that was my question. It seems like at some point they either changed from the diagnostic connector to an OBDII based diagnostic. Not sure which I have, or if both are present. Don't know if my scanner does ABS, guess I can throw it on and see what happens. Hate to buy an ABS scanner just for this. If so though, are there any that allow me to pulse the ABS for a fluid flush?
2) The front may or may not have sensors at each front wheel. It depends on the answer to the question RABS or 4WABS. The rear has a single sensor in top of the diff. These are known for failure.
Great. Normally not a "throw parts at it" kind of guy, but for $10/10 min this seems like a reasonable first step. Cheaper than a new scanner.

3) Under the hood, behind the passenger airbag, they moved around a bit.
Just so I can check the connectors.
4)Not sure I understand the question. The hydraulic unit will have brake lines that go from the master cylinder through the hydraulic control unit (HCU) and then out to the wheels. A RABS system will be a small box on the fender with one line in and one out, a 4WABS unit will be a larger block with two lines in and 3 out for a total of 5. Aside from the low fluid sensor and the auxiliary cruise deactivation switch there should be no electrical connections at the master cylinder.
Well, you answered the question. I wanted to see if there were any electrical connections at the MC that could be an issue.

And pulling the bulb is always an option. Usually the best option.
Meh, I'm not trying to outsmart an engineer. And I've read through your posts, I knew that would be your recommended solution ;)
 

Denisefwd93

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RABS sucks 4 wheel ABS may be great but not RABS. We took it out. My truck stops on a dime with 9 cents change. taking the bulb out soon. ADSM knows this stuff!
 

adsm08

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Yes, some scanners do have the ability to run the pump for service bleeding. This should not be needed for fluid flushing, it is more needed to remove air after it has been introduced to the system above the HCU. I have $1200 in my Solus and that is cheap for one of those. It's also one of the lowest level scanners that will do that.

Outsmarting engineers isn't hard. Those guys are really smart when it comes to dumb things.

RABS sucks 4 wheel ABS may be great but not RABS. We took it out. My truck stops on a dime with 9 cents change. taking the bulb out soon. ADSM knows this stuff!
This is pretty much my stance too. RABS sucks. Early RABS sucks worse because you have to keep pumping the pedal for it to keep working. Your 97 shouldn't be subject to that limitation, but in many cases working RABS is worse than no ABS at all because it provides a false sense of security.

RABS systems assume wheel lock-up by how fast it thinks you stopped. This means it has the potential to activate when not needed, and worse, not activate when it might be useful.

Additionally, in my mind the biggest (and possibly only) advantage of an ABS system is to keep you from loosing steering by preventing front wheel lock up. RABS doesn't do this.

A skilled driver should not need an electronic computerized system to keep their vehicle under control even in extreme adverse conditions. In 15 years I have never once owned for myself a vehicle with a functional ABS system of any sort. I have seen many many ABS equipped vehicles get into trouble trying to brake in situations that my truck and I got through just fine. This proves to me that it is not needed, and may actually be an impediment if it doesn't do exactly what you expect when you expect it.
 

nola mike

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RABS sucks 4 wheel ABS may be great but not RABS. We took it out. My truck stops on a dime with 9 cents change. taking the bulb out soon. ADSM knows this stuff!
Stops on a dime. Unless you're not on a dry road. In which case without a proportioning valve your rears lock up and you're ass sideways heading into a tree. Anyway, plenty of debate both ways on this one I know. It's a half assed solution, but IMO still better than nothing, and better than having no ABS in a system that was designed for it.
 

Denisefwd93

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RABS is halfassed engineering that was installed because of the GOV mandate ABS , real ABS is great. had it in my AWD van.
 

nola mike

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RABS is halfassed engineering that was installed because of the GOV mandate ABS , real ABS is great. had it in my AWD van.
I agree. The problem is that when you disable it, you don't have the same system as a car that never had it. You have a system that locks up the rears much more easily, in a truck that already is light in the rear and prone to lock up anyway (if unloaded).
 

Denisefwd93

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How did we ever survive without fancy brake improvements anyway? I've Been driving since the the early 60s !

Mike, Some have added an aftermarket proportioning valve and If i really felt guilty and or unsafe with RABS not in my truck we can always put it back in.. Not likely but we would :)
 

nola mike

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Is the ABS sensor on the diff the same as the VSS (does my truck have a VSS?). My speedo and odometer are working fine.

EDIT: From what I've read from '95-'98 there was a separate VSS on the tranny. The ABS sensor on the diff is separate. From '98 onward the info from the VSS is taken from the ABS unit. Someone correct me if I'm off...
 
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hondaxr650

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Is the ABS sensor on the diff the same as the VSS (does my truck have a VSS?). My speedo and odometer are working fine.

EDIT: From what I've read from '95-'98 there was a separate VSS on the tranny. The ABS sensor on the diff is separate. From '98 onward the info from the VSS is taken from the ABS unit. Someone correct me if I'm off...
You are correct. In 98 they started using the rear abs sensor for the speedo. Your 97 has the sensor on the transfer case.
 

nola mike

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So replaced the ABS sensor on the diff, no luck. Worth a shot. Before I buy an ABS scanner, I wanted to make sure that my '97 does indeed use the OBD port to pull ABS codes, and that there is no way to diagnose via the elusive black/orange wire (I can't find it on my truck). Looks like I can get an innova 3030, which reads abs, for $50. Seems like the cheapest I can find. Anybody know of anything cheaper? I already have another scanner, so this is strictly for the ABS.
 

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I'm going to just throw a question in here.

most auto parts places can read the main OBDII, can any of them read the ABS?
 

nola mike

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Got the scanner, and it told me that my truck wasn't compatible. Not sure why. And of course the abs light went out on its own. Again, can someone confirm that my codes are in obd and not through that wire?
 

nola mike

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Grr. Called innova, and was told that none of their scanners will work on 4wd. What next?
 

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