98 f150 imrc

Sam_Ranger · Apr 13, 2015

Just pulled the codes 1537 and 1538 out of my F150 4.2 v6.

I am unsure where to start. Any advice would be great. Meanwhile I will be looking at the vacuum lines.

adsm08 · Apr 13, 2015

Those things had issues with the little rod clip bushings falling apart and letting the control rods fall out of the actuators. I'd start looking there.

Sam_Ranger · Apr 13, 2015

I found a small leak in the vacuum so I'm gonna fix that first. Some rubber boots got dry rotted. Where exactly are the actuators. Is there one on each side. I can't seem to find them.

Sam_Ranger · Apr 13, 2015

I fixed the small vacuum leak and cleared the codes. I will see if they come back by tomorrow. If you can tell me where the actuator is located that would be awesome so I know exactly where to look should the codes come back.

on a side note, My ranger is no more. Some guy ran a stop sign in a titan and hit my rear passenger side sending me into a drift I couldn't correct for which landed my driver side perpendicular to a fence so that crushed the cab. Its totaled and I'm waiting on the insurance to cover me.

Meanwhile I'm using my dads truck, the one mentioned above, and id like to return it to him in better condition than when he lent it to me. it only has 86,000 miles so its pretty unused for a 98. My ranger had 172,000 and it was still running great!

alwaysFlOoReD · Apr 13, 2015

I had a problem with the actuators in my 97 4.2. IIRC the only way to get to them with out removing the upper intake is to drop the trans crossmember and lower the rear of the trans a bit. then with some cursing and long skinny arms you can just reach. They are located just above the top of the trans under the intake. I think these actuators open an extra passage for WOT. There may be other ways I don't know about, I did it this way when I changed my y-pipe and exhaust. And as ADSM08 says, it's the clips falling off.

RonD · Apr 13, 2015

There is a diagram here: http://www.justanswer.com/ford/2qvx2-p1538-intake-manifold-runner-control-bank-2-stuck-open.html

#8 and #9 are the vacuum controlled actuators, located at the back of the lower intake.

As said the linkage clips break which is not a hard fix, just hard to get to.

BUT(big but), getting both left and right(bank1, bank2) codes at the same time would make me think the vacuum line or vacuum solenoid that activates these would be at fault, could even be Computer issue.
Both clips "could" come off or break at the same time, just not very likely

adsm08 · Apr 13, 2015

I do agree Ron, it's unlikely, but not unseen for both clips to fail at the same time and a central systemic problem is more likely. It's also not unheard of for the light to come on and be ignored for a while, during which time something else can fail, set a second (or third) code, but since no other indicator is given there is no way to know something else is now wrong.

I was at work and didn't have time to go look up the codes and don't deal with IMRC that often, so I wasn't sure if those codes were bank 1/2 or general out of limit faults. I just know those bushings are the most common issue on the 3.8/4.2/4.6 IMRC systems.

Sam_Ranger · Apr 13, 2015

Well the light is back on and the codes are the same so I will take a look at the said bushings/clips.

Is there a replacement readily available for the said broken pieces or do I have to purchase the entire part?

Before buying it Im going to see if I am slender enough to fit my arm in there.

RonD · Apr 13, 2015

It would be a dealer item but I believe a set of 2 clips is about $10, because they are a pain to get to you should always replace both clips even if 1 is 'temporarily' still working, lol.

I would double check vacuum hose(s) that activate those first.

A mirror is handy to see them

adsm08 · Apr 14, 2015

IIRC the upper portion of the intake clamshell must be removed to access those clips on the trucks and to remove the upper intake you absolutely must have a semi-deep 8mm socket to get the one studded bolt near the rear. A short socket won't fit over the stud and a true deep socket won't clear the firewall.

We had a guy named Jason trying to do this job at my shop a few years back and he didn't have the right socket, he spent 4 hours trying to remove that bolt, then went to his truck and cried for two hours, came back in and quit. I'm not even kidding. Until they re-painted the ceilings two years ago "Jason is a putz" was written on the ceiling above my bay.

Sam_Ranger · Apr 14, 2015

lol. Thats a funny story. Thanks for the info on the socket. I only have regular and deep sockets. I will search for a semi deep socket.

Sam_Ranger · Apr 15, 2015

Ok So I found the vacuum hose diagram and all the hoses looked good minus what I had replaced.

As previously posted, it is odd that both sides go out together. I was able too find and look at one of them through the top of the intake against the firewall and the rod was still present.
If the clips were broke, this would fall out right?

so I assume it is the imdc solenoid. Is there a way to test it? does someone have a part number for it.

adsm08 · Apr 15, 2015

If the clips break the rods fall out of the butterflys, but not the actuator.

RonD · Apr 15, 2015

Find the solenoid, it will have 2 wires and 2 maybe 3 vacuum lines.
1 vacuum line will go to the intake, the vacuum source.
Then 1 vacuum line will go to a "T" with 1 hose to each actuator
Or, there will be 2 vacuum lines on the solenoid 1 for each actuator.

Solenoid is just a 12volt coil, when power is passed thru it, it opens/passes the vacuum from the intake to the actuators.
It doesn't have a + or -, just as long as one connection is + and the other - it should "click" and vacuum should pass thru it.
You can test it with a 9volt battery or car battery power, which ever is easier.
If you pull off the vacuum lines(mark them) and put your own hose on it, you can blow thru that hose as you power the solenoid, when it opens it should pass air then stop passing air with no power

Sam_Ranger · Apr 18, 2015

I replaced the solenoid and the codes came back. The only thing left is the actuators themselves and or the clips they attach to.

Looks like I will be removing the intake manifold soon. Any pointers other than the fact I need a semi deep socket for one of the bolts close to the firewall?

98 f150 imrc

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