´89 Ranger loosing coolant

Luke2.9 · Apr 1, 2014

I just bought my Ranger, and i knew it was loosing coolant but i saw it leaking from the hose between the radiator and the water pump, so i replaced the hose clips and both ends had become leakproof.

Now the real problem: it still keeps leaking but i can´t see from where it bleeds. (Drops from a truss in front of the axle, don´t how thats called in english) When the engines is cold, you can see some white smoke coming from the exhaust, but not that much, after short trips the leakage is very strong, after long term rides it almost is non existent.

My first guess was a broken cylinder head seal, but there is no water in the engine oil at all...

Any suggestions?

RonD · Apr 1, 2014

Common leak point is the water pump weep hole, but that is in the front of the engine.

Front axle would be more of the middle of the engine.
'89 is old enough to get some rusted Core plugs(freeze plugs).

Is the leak on the heater hose side?
I had a pinhole leak that drove me crazy(short trip), it was in a heater hose and was spraying on another part of the engine.

Cold engine leaking more than warm could be head gasket, block and head expands when warmed up so leak slows down.
Cold engine seal is a common problem on newer engines using MLS head gaskets.
Not sure the 2.9l suffered from this.

Luke2.9 · Apr 2, 2014

its dripping from the front truss that belongs to the main frame, just in between the front bumper and the axle, so most likely on the radiator/water pump side (pump is brand new). I will do a compression measurement on the weekend (not sure if i can get the left three ones), if the head gasket is broken compression should be lower at least on one cylinder, shouldn´t it?

Could a broken thermostat cause pressure in the cooling system? Mine is broken for sure...
But i will check the heater hoses as well

thanks

RonD · Apr 2, 2014

Compression test won't help you in this case.

You can pressure test the cooling system, fill it with coolant/water and then pump it up to 20psi cold, normal is 16psi.
Then watch where it leaks from, much easier to feel around on a cold engine that hot engine to find the leak.

You can rent these test kits, it is just a hand pump with a gauge and rad cap fitting.
You put it on the rad cap opening and pump it up to pressurize the cooling system, you can remove brackets to get better access to front and side of engine.

The 4.0l engine(same block as 2.9l) often leaked from intake manifold to head gasket, would run down the front passenger side of the engine

Luke2.9 · Apr 2, 2014

Okay, then i will do that..thanks buddy

Hitchner2009 · Apr 9, 2014

I would also advise in getting a cheap black light and some fluorescent die. Run the truck for a few minutes to have it pass through the entire engine. Then turn it off, or leave it running, whichever you prefer and put your black light to it. They make these kits that come with special glasses that you wear for the leak detection. With these on, and the black light on the engine, the die will glow green if you find a leak. This has helped me numerous amounts of times in the field. The kit and dye are inexpensive and would save you alot of headache down the road.

Luke2.9 · Apr 10, 2014

Thank you, i've done a Co2 analysis of the coolant, which indicated exhaust emmissions are existant in the coolant. So it is obviously a broken head gasket. Is it essential to replace both head gaskets?

RonD · Apr 10, 2014

No, not if the engine was never over heated.
But it is just better to do both sides, cost is not much more.

You can ID which cylinder has the leak with the glove test, also to confirm a head gasket leak, could be a cracked head.

Glove test:
Cold engine with cooling system still hooked up, coolant should be an inch below top of rad, lower is fine, but not full to the top
Remove rad cap
Remove overflow hose, and block it's rad open with vacuum cap from engine or hose with bolt in it
Place latex glove over rad cap opening, use rubber band to seal it; a balloon or even a condom will work

as well

Disable spark, pull coil wire, you want a no start
Crank engine

Glove will bounce each time a leaking cylinder has its compression stroke, IF you have a leaking gasket.

If glove bounces, remove one spark plug and crank engine, repeat until glove stops bouncing, last spark plug removed is the leaking cylinder, replace spark plug to confirm.

Luke2.9 · Apr 10, 2014

That sounds like an excellent idea
I´m quite sure it is the head gasket because you can feel the radiator hoses gain pressure very fast when starting the cold engine. And if one head is broken I have to remove them anyway...how hard can it be?
I´ve got a chilton repair manual...is there anything to be taken care of despite the steps mentioned in this manual?

Thanks

RonD · Apr 10, 2014

Most have the heads cleaned and machined(surfaced) at a machine shop, usually $100-$150 for the set, call around, prices and time frames vary.
You do need to install new valve guide seals, rubber seals inside the valve springs, they will come with head gasket set.
If heads are off and you have a valve spring compressor it can be done pretty fast.
If you take heads to machine shop bring the new seals with you and ask "how much to install these?", often they will do it without extra charge, but shouldn't be more than $20 if they do charge.

Make sure block surface gets cleaned, use a metal straight edge with a light behind it to look for warps in the surface.

If you can ID the leaking cylinder then once the head is off find the break in the gasket, if you can't find the break then check between the valves for that cylinder, that where they crack

Luke2.9 · Apr 10, 2014

yes, I considered this before because i don´t own a spring compressor an want the heads in best shape they can get, so I think I get them both surfaced. I still hope my ranger already has got the updated heads (it´s july ´89). It is almost impossible to get those parts in germany, was hard enough to get the gaskets :/ I´ll see next week

´89 Ranger loosing coolant

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