No Start Fuel Issue....

xlt88 · Apr 2, 2014

Need help! My 88 Ranger 2.9 doesn't want to run. I hear a clicking on the relay but no buzzing sound heard when ignition is turned on. Sparks are okay and I cleaned all the ground connection close to the battery. I pushed the fuel check valve located on the rail with no pressure. I grounded the fuel pump lead from the VIP and hear both fuel pump running. Inertia switch is okay. I have not tried the TFI since sparks are okay. Any advice what I can do next? Run out of previous post to read. Thanks.

jhammel85 · Apr 3, 2014

Everything you described sounds like a bad relay.

Check that the voltage going into the relay is the same voltage going out (when the key is on, of course).

If it's not, replace it and you'll be good to go.

RonD · Apr 3, 2014

Put jumper back in VIP connection to get pumps running and start the engine.

If it starts and runs OK, then I would do as jhammel85 said, replace Fuel Pump Relay, $7

Fuel pump relay on '88 with 2.9l should be on the passenger side fender toward firewall, it will have a Green base, EEC relay has a Brown base, WOT relay has a Black base.

I believe all 3 relays have the same part number, so you could take out WOT relay and put it in to fuel pump relay base to see if fuel pumps come on with the key.
EEC relay powers the fuel pump relay so it needs to stay put

xlt88 · Apr 5, 2014

Thanks! I will try advises once rain stops. Do faulty TFI affects the fuel going to the injectors? This issue started with the engine dying then after it cools off it will start again. But this time it stayed dead although engine is cold.

RonD · Apr 5, 2014

No, TFI is only for spark

Fuel pump power is a separate system:

Battery----Fuel Pump Fuse----Fuel Pump Relay-----Inertia Switch------Fuel Pump(s)

xlt88 · Apr 5, 2014

Wish this rain stops. Thanks RonD. Should save me replacing my TFI. I purchased a spark tester and all plugs and coil register a spark so I should be good. I will definitely let you all know once I have the chance to replace both relay.

xlt88 · Apr 7, 2014

RodD, jhammel85 I replaced both relay. Heard a better click but no whirling sound from the pump. I took off the fuel pump relay shorted the yellow and tan with green stripe and both pump start running. Tried starting but no go. The two other terminal should be for the relay coil which feeds to the ECA and EEC (don't even know what is the difference between the ECA and the EEC) per the diagram and the wire color is R and T/LB. Should it be EEC failure? I am also wondering the diagram says wire from the fuel pump PK/BK but what I see is a T/LG wire. Also both voltage that goes to the coil (red and tan/light green) reads 12V? Any thoughts or advise?

RonD · Apr 7, 2014

With key on there will be two 12v contacts in Fuel Pump Relay socket
With key off only one will have 12v, this is the Fuel pump Power from fuel pump fuse

The other 12v with key on is from the EEC relay, that's the 12v to activate the relay BUT....relay has no ground, the Computer(EEC, PCM) uses the ground to activate the fuel pump relay.
The computer has several ground points and they are not interconnected inside the computer.

The VIP connector is a splice into that fuel pump relay ground wire to the computer, so when you add the jumper you are Grounding the relay not giving it 12v.
If using a jumper on the VIP connector turns on the fuel pumps then wiring at relay is OK.
Computer is not grounding relay

xlt88 · Apr 7, 2014

Ron, Thanks. This is the most challenging issue I've ever had with my Ranger. Sounds like what you mean is I have to check all the grounds that the EEC have. I'll check them all besides what I already check. I have to wait for the weekend. I'll let you know. Thanks again for keeping the trend alive.

RonD · Apr 8, 2014

The wiring for the FP Relay coil is:

Battery------EEC relay-------Fuel Pump relay(coil)----(VIP FP wire)----EEC-----ground

On the 2.9l diagram I have it shows a Light Blue/Orange(LB/O) wire as the Ground wire coming off the relay and going to VIP port and then to pin 22 on EEC(computer).

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/EDiagrams/files/Diagrams_ElectronciEngControls2_9_1of3.JPG

The splice for the VIP connector and computer would be the first place to look, splices have a habit of corroding over time.

But engine should start and run with VIP jumper in place(fuel pumps running) so there may be another unrelated issue for the no start, or could be computer issue in general for both issues

I would unhook the battery and then pull off the EEC connector to make sure no moisture got in there, not an uncommon issue

xlt88 · Apr 12, 2014

Ron, hope you are enjoying your weekend. I am actually leaning towards the EEC-IV myself. Today I check the two Blk/Green wire on the EEC (I did not see any Blk/W as shown in the diagram) with a VOM. Both are grounded okay against the body. I check the two solid red wires and reads 12V. There is no O/LB wire on the EEC side but an O/LG. This wire though did not register any voltage. I’ll try to undress the wiring harness tomorrow and check the splices between the EEC/VIP and check their connection. If okay, I guess it is time to replace the EEC. What do you think about an EEC-IV from the wreckers? Will it be worth it? Also on the top of your head, do you know the resistance of the coil on the relay?

RonD · Apr 13, 2014

Automotive relay coils generally run about 600ohms, as long as it is not 0 ohms or infinite ohms(NC) it's probably OK.

Yes, EEC from auto wrecker is probably OK.
Does your CEL(check engine light) come on with key and then go off?
Or stay on?

You can pop the top of current EEC and have a look for damaged circuits, it is way past warranty, lol.
It won't ruin it.

Does engine start with fuel pump on with jumper wire?

xlt88 · Apr 13, 2014

That’s funny because I did open the EEC. I did not see any corrosion or anything that is extra ordinary. I did concentrate on the coil connection of the FP relay today (Red and T/LG) per the diagram the red should be +12V and the T/LG should be the ground fed by the EEC on pin no. 22 which should complete the coil circuit to energized the relay switch. I unplug the FP relay and did two test on the T/LG on pin 22 of the EEC With a VOM both the Red and T/LG reads 12V which mean to me that the circuit is not complete or no ground at all. I concluded todays test to be a bad EEC-IV since the ground wire feeding the EEC have continuity and the reds have voltage on it. Hope I did not confuse you.

Anyway, I’m going to a wrecker and try it next weekend. I will definitely let you know if I just wasted money on a EEC-IV

.

RonD · Apr 13, 2014

No, not confused, you seem to have covered the bases pretty well.

You could take the ohm meter with you and test pin 22 on different EEC.
pin22 wouldn't show a ground as is, I would think it would have a high ohm reading to ground(chassis), but not a NC(no connection) if EEC was disconnected.

Pin 22 would have 12v with key on, but no current flow because of high resistance, when switched on(grounded) the 12v would flow and relay would close.

Have a look here:
http://www.auto-diagnostics.info/ford_eec_iv

jhammel85 · Apr 14, 2014

Too bad it's not an '87. I have an Reman'd EEC with a chip that I've been wanting to get rid of!

No Start Fuel Issue....

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