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Replacing 2.3 head gasket.


Kamakazi Kay

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I'm putting a new head gasket on my 96 2.3. While I got the head off, is there anything I should do? I'm taking the head to a machine shop for good measure and while he's in there, should I have him do anything?
 


Spott

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It might be good to lap the valves while you have it off. Just a thought.

Spott
 

Hitchner2009

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Nothing really, just make sure hes inspecting it for warpage and such. Other than that, hes going to do what hes trained to do, and thats to make it look purdy and work properly.
 

Hitchner2009

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i dont believe the 96 has a timing belt, i believe its a timing chain.
 

Kamakazi Kay

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It has a timing belt and I did get a new one. So after he just mills the bottom and inspects it that's about it huh. Nothing special I can do without putting in new cams and such?
 

rfl

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Shops 'should' fully inspect the head if they are doing anything. Still, ask if they will be inspecting the valves, guides, seats...

Why are you having it decked? If you suspect that it is warped, you may want to have it checked for cracks.
 

Kamakazi Kay

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I'm probably going to have it baked for a good cleaning and relieve stress in the head. I was just wondering if it was worth porting and/or polishing anything. I'm not putting in an aftermarket cam or anything.
 

huh?

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something you may wish to consider doing before you take the head to the machine shop:

secure head in upside-down position and fill each chamber with solvent so that all valves are completely immersed and take a peek in the ports to see if any solvent is dribbling/seeping/gushing past any valves.

this may give you some indication of what may need to be done at the shop.

there are other things you can do to check out the components but this procedure kind of popped to the front of my mind as i read your post. this is, for me, the second easiest check to do(the easiest being just eyeballing the head assembly for things like broken springs, damaged stems, obvious cracks, etc.).

edit: unless i'm going to just drop the head at TED'S in kalihi for a "grind valve complete" i prefer to have some idea of what may be involved, both monetarily and time wise.
 
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Kamakazi Kay

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While doing this job, I've been spending too much time on the internet for my wallet's own good. http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/images/smilies/bawling.gif
I've been thinking about upping the HP on this truck while i've got it apart.

Can i do anything to get me to about 175HP staying N/A and keeping EFI? Port and polish the head? New cam? Can my stock pistons handle that HP? What exhaust that'll sound good and not like some stupid ricer? Do i require heavier injectors and does that mean i need a new fuel pump and different MAF as well?

My truck is stock with a K&N filter replacement and a stage 2 clutch with maybe 2000 miles on it. BTW i live in northern AZ and do not require my vehicles to be emission tested. I planned on blocking the EGR at the gasket by the throttle body. This info came from Route 66 hot rod high. I am putting in a new timing belt and am toying with the idea of an adjustable cam pulley. Would this matter with a new cam?

Also (I know lots of questions) while having taken this motor apart, there is a sensor on the back of the head, driver side. Just above the #4 cylinder intake tube. What is this? It had the wires cut and i couldn't find the leads to it. My truck ran great (before other problems) and they had to have been cut then.

any info regarding the questions will be great. thanks
 

Kamakazi Kay

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So I got my head off and on all cylinders I have a crack between the valves. So it's time for a new head. Sucks. Anyway besides eBay and Craigslist is there a place I can get a new head?
 

rfl

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I am sure this is not want you meant, but you can buy a new head from ford (fordparts.com) for $1,747 or you can buy a complete engine from fordparts.com for $2,002!. Go figure.

Having said that, you can buy one from Autozone or O'Reilly for $460-$600, likely other parts stores as well. Also online retailers like rockauto.com. Amazon.com has bare heads, new assemblies, and reman assemblies for various prices as well.

All the above is base on your profile vehicle ('96, 2.3L).
 

Kamakazi Kay

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I may have to go that route but i'd rather not if i can avoid it.

Looking on ebay there are various model year heads for the 2.3. Mine is a 8 plug i know but could i bolt up a 4 plug and just not use one of the ignition coils? Also i'm not seeing much of a difference in years on the 8 plug heads. Like Ebay advertises an 89-94 head. i know in 94 (at least in california) they added a cam position sensor then the 95 through 97 models were all identical till 98 when they switched to the 2.5. What really is the difference between the heads from 89 to 2001? The cam position sensor is behind the oil pump pulley so that doesn't have anything to do with the head. On pre 95 motors the crank position sensor is in a little different location on the crank but still way down on the block and still doesn't matter with the head. Could i possibly put any of these years head's on my truck and be ok? Any info would be greatly appreciated.
 

Mark_88

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I wouldn't buy a head anywhere but a junkyard...with a stipulation that if the head is cracked you can return it for another one. I did this last year and it turned out the head was good so I didn't have to return it and have another one checked (magnaflux testing) for cracks.

As long as they have more than one in the yard this works in your favour, but a PITA to have to keep going back to the JY...

The main benefit is you can buy a head for about $100 and with testing and replacing parts it won't cost more than $400...just your time.
 

wizkid00104

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I have a complete top end to a 96/97 2.3L (throttle body to the cylinder head). When I bought it, it had less than 30,000 original miles on it. I was going to port and polish it and then put it on my Ranger. Never got around to it. I'd be interested in selling it. Where are you located?
 

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