Coyote Ugly:97 Ranger build

out cast · Feb 25, 2017

Back again with another build. First was a 91 Explorer, then a 99 Ranger, now a 97 Ranger. I was looking for a cheap truck to build up and came across this one. I bought it for drivetrain primarily... 4.0 SOHC, 5 speed, electric t case (��), and 8.8. Got her in the dark, drive home with no starter and barely a battery.

Woke up this morning and realized... she's ugly. Like idk if I want to admit it's mine... yet. So Coyote Ugly popped into my head haha

-500.00 Truck
+2.83 Change inside truck
-80.00 235/75R15 Tires and wheels
-99.09 Bestest Starter
-2.85 Starter bolts
-9.89 Radius arm bushings
-9.74 Fuel Filter
-54.82 Passenger RA bracket
$753.54 SPENT TO DATE

I'm gonna add about $100 for paint now and even it up

$850

out cast · Feb 26, 2017

Been beating the cab w a body hammer and it's getting pretty close to where it needs to be. Tomorrow I'll try to finish the roof maybe lay some body filler down. I'm just stoked the door shuts and seals now!

And to show the difference a few hours made

out cast · Feb 27, 2017

New starter is in, small but essential upgrade, as there was nothing in the hole before!

Started mocking up ideas on Sketchup for the Dana 30 fitment. Will be building a crossmember out of 2x6 1/4 wall to bolt to frame in stock location. Arms should be 36" lowers, uppers off of them.

RockRanger · Feb 28, 2017

One recommendation. Make the center of the trans cross member removable without having to undo the front suspension. Are you planning on having the cross-member cnc cut or just doing it because you can? Just curios on why are you spacing the lower link mounts so far off the frame? I have mine about as tight as I can against the frame and they are still the lowest point under the truck.

I like where this is heading.

out cast · Feb 28, 2017

They'd be CNC cut, located under the frame. Great point with the removable center, I'll map that into my next sketch. I was kinda guessing where the lowers are gonna end up on the frame.

RockRanger · Feb 28, 2017

I use sketchup for all my design work. One more sugestion is to make tabs and slots for assembly. I try to put them on everything when possible. Then you just line everything up clamp it together then double check with a tape measure and you are ready to start welding. makes everything so much easier. Here is my replacement spring hangers cut out of quarter inch. Made assembly a breeze.

20160218_200111 by Matthew Dresselhaus, on Flickr

out cast · Feb 28, 2017

Do you just weld the slots in at that point?

RockRanger · Feb 28, 2017

Yes just weld it up.

I also leave small tabs off of pieces to help line everything up. I make them roughly half the length of the material I am working with. You can kind of see it here.

32540885492_3ea4e11cd8_o by Matthew Dresselhaus, on Flickr

out cast · Feb 28, 2017

damn maybe i should pay you to draw it up lol

This is the new design with a bolt on center section and tabbed edges

RockRanger · Feb 28, 2017

I am not very fast. I know just enough to get me in trouble. When I start getting into 3D I start having trouble. Here is my lower link/trans mount/skidplate. I am using a jeep wagoneer front axle.

tcase and link skidplate and mounts 3d by Matthew Dresselhaus, on Flickr

Untitled by Matthew Dresselhaus, on Flickr

out cast · Feb 28, 2017

Shit that would work for mine too! got a cut list?`

RockRanger · Feb 28, 2017

Sorry I don't share files. I had way to many hours in it getting it all to work. Honestly I doubt it would work anyway. My frame is slightly tweaked so I had to design it to specifically fit my truck. Plus it is designed for running duel tcases. Having said that one of theses days I plan to redesign it and make the skid plate and trans mount two separate pieces. Probably design in an oil pan skid plate in as well. Also it needs more reinforcement. It is all cut out of 3/16 steel and I still have bent it.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

out cast · Mar 1, 2017

Alright after a few hours of labor I came up with a CNC cut list, and model.

RockRanger · Mar 1, 2017

Looking good. Can you make the side pieces all one piece? When I do tabs and slots like that I open up the slots by 1/64 of an inch on each side. I also make the short ends a half circle. Helps deal with the slight taper my plasma table leaves.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

out cast · Mar 1, 2017

I left the link brackets separate so I can angle or turn them for best connection to axle, is straight the best for the Dana 30?

Coyote Ugly:97 Ranger build

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