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Replacing Spark Plugs


SawyerRanger

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Does anyone have a guide on how to replace/check spark plugs in a 4.0 OHV(1999 model)
 


KELLY88

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Pull old plugs out, put new ones in. Do them one at a time to keep the firing order right. Also a lot of people find that jacking the front end up and letting the front tires flex out to full droop makes it a lot easier to access some of the plugs from the wheel wells.
 

SawyerRanger

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So they are accessed from the wheel wells?
 

97ranger4x4

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on your OHV they can be accessed from the top. The drivers side has plenty of room, but the passengers side is pretty tight. Mainly on the first cyl. That is the one that is next to the front of the truck on the pass side. Thats a PITA. Helps if you have small hands also.
 

zedx

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wratcheting wrench works good for that back passenger cyl.
 

woodyedmiston

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Jack up

If you are a larger person, putting the truck on jack stands, removing the front wheels, and pulling the inner fiber fender sheilds next to the engine compartment makes this a lot easier. You can also inspect areas of the engine for leaks, etc. while you are at it.
 

KELLY88

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on your OHV they can be accessed from the top. The drivers side has plenty of room, but the passengers side is pretty tight. Mainly on the first cyl. That is the one that is next to the front of the truck on the pass side. Thats a PITA. Helps if you have small hands also.
Ya that one definitely is a fight. I try to save it for last. After that plug you need a break and it helps if that last one finishes the job.
 

SawyerRanger

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I took a look at the locations of the plugs, and yeah, that right side definitely does not look fun, lol. I may take Woody's idea if I ever get around to it.

Instead of posting a new thread I'll just ask this here I guess. Basically the truck has been shaking very roughly when I first start it (cold start), however after it warms up it the shaking goes away.

Something similar to the shaking happened during the summer, and the result was 6 blown spark plugs, which Firestone fixed among other things like wiring for a *gracious* sum :bawling: So I figured if it was plugs, I would just do it myself before it gets any worse and save some money and do it now before it got any worse. But due to it getting all new plugs, wiring etc in August, and the shaking going away after the engine warms up to normal operating temp, I figured it could be something else.

So I started reading about the MAF sensor and cleaning it, and then I went to Autozone and asked where the MAF cleaner was, and then I told him this and he said asked if there was a check engine light, and I told him that there was no check engine light. So he said maybe it could be a seal somewhere, and I should check my vacuum lines before I really buy anything. So I figured that would be a good idea.

So, summing all this up, what do you guys think? My guesses are bad plugs, vacuum lines, dirty MAF, maybe a gasket seal? And there still is no check engine light. So if anyone has any ideas that would be great.

EDIT: Just read somewhere that some companies oxygenate their gas during winter. I live in New England, so it can get pretty cold, and this all started after I filled up my truck half way with Irving Gas.. And it did seem like I was getting worse fuel mileage..

There are so many possibilities!
 
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Jaymz9350

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on your OHV they can be accessed from the top. The drivers side has plenty of room, but the passengers side is pretty tight. Mainly on the first cyl. That is the one that is next to the front of the truck on the pass side. Thats a PITA. Helps if you have small hands also.
That must be why I didn't have to many problems with it. I just made sure I had multiple lengths of extensions a a u-joint adapter (or what-ever that thing is called) and had minimal difficulties. It was nothing compared to when I had to change the plugs on my 90 4 banger.
 

97ranger4x4

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yeh the best tool I think I ever bought was my wobble extension set from harbor freight. for $8 those tools have paid for themselves many times over.

It has made changing spark plugs much easier than with just my basic sockets.

I think changing the plugs on my buddies Honda civic was without a doubt the easiest job I have ever seen. I think I could acctually change all 4 plugs faster than I could fuel up my truck.
 

ghost_rader

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if its shaking badly when its cold and damp( typical new england weather this time of year) but not when it warms up, you might have bad spark plug wires. the easiest way to check for this is to start the truck and warm it up. after the shaking stops, take a spray bottle with water in it and spray the spark plug wires. if you see arcing, or notice the engine start to shake and run badly, then thats probably your issue.
i would check also look closely at the wires especially if they were replaced with the plugs, if they were not installed properly(in the clips and not laying on anything that could burn or rub through them) then they would go bad permaturely

hope this helps
 

SawyerRanger

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Makes sense, and it fits the symptoms. I'll go try that and give an update. Thanks for all the info everyone


EDIT: Went out to check, all the wires are properly installed I believe, all are located in the clips. The only place I could see there being some sort of damage is the driver side plug wires go right over a cover (for some reason I can't remember the name of it)
The wires are similar to this:



That's a 2.9, but the parts I am talking about are relatively the same looking. I could see some type of burning happening there, but like I said, there was no arcing or change in engine performance. And the wires seem intact.

This whole thing is really confusing, appreciate all your help guys
 

BlackBII

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That part is a valve cover:icon_thumby:

You sparyed the wires and no arcing?

The truck only shakes when cold? Does it appear to be in warm up mode when you first start it? Idling high?

You may want to pull the ECT (engine coolant temp sensor) and test it. Make sure it's up to snuff.
 

SawyerRanger

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Valve covers, gotcha :icon_thumby:

And yeah, when I first start it, it idles (in park, this is an automatic) at about 1400 or so, then gradually drops down to 1000/1100.

Shakes slightly at that point, nothing too bad, then I put it in reverse/drive or whatever and the rpms drop to 600/700 and the shaking begins.

One time I was reversing out of my parking space, and I looked back and saw the bed just shaking like a mad man.

Just to add some more info, the shaking continues while rolling, goes away after I give it some gas and it gets up to about 2000 rpms, but when I slow down the shaking starts again. One thing I noticed is that if I come to a complete stop, the shaking stops, or atleast becomes very slight.

Where would I find the ECT, and how would I check it? Should I leave this one to the experienced mechanic or is it something I could handle.
 
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