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new to forced induction


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i understand very little what it comes to forced induction. im willing to learn and taking notes as i go.

im great mechanic when it comes to fixing cars. not adding power yet.

so i have a 86 b2 that ive done the 4.0 swap from a 94 explorer. 5 speed swap from and 85 b2. used the rear axle and dash from the explorer. exhaust has been done. 2.5 inch pipe with magnaflow. no cats. has the 4.10 gears in the rear and front.

i have the supercharger from a 90 thunderbird sc. and ive got friends who can me install it and make the brackets and such.

my main concern is getting to run well. i need to know what are the things/problems i will run into. is there anything i should get to go along with this. im hopeing to run a min of 8psi. max of 10. if not ill get what i can with the stock motor and ignition and fuel.
 


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Reinstall cats.
 
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lol being serious. i know the v8 swap is the cool thing to do. but im going with what i have.
 

stmitch

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Boost requires more air and fuel. You'll probably want a larger Diameter MAF to account for the increased airflow, and higher flowing fuel injectors to keep enough fuel in the cylinders to take advantage of the increased air flow.

A quality PCM tune will be important too since the stock timing and fuel tables won't work with boost.

Keep in mind that boost=stress. Ultimately, engines run by processing more air. If you can move the same amount of air efficiently at 6psi as you can in a less efficient way at 8psi, your engine will be less stressed and you'll make the same power.

Also, your Eaton supercharger is going to heat the air going into the engine which isn't great. The faster it spins, the more heat it will make. You'll need to make sure it's spinning fast enough to make good power, but not so fast that it's just creating tons of heat. There are complex efficiency tables available that can tell you your superchargers efficiency window based on it's RPM. You control supercharger RPMs by adjusting the size/ratio of the supercharger pulley in relation to the crank pulley (or whatever pulley is driving the supercharger).

You may find that cooling the air charge is necessary. This can be done with a heat exchanger or water/meth injection. Cooler air charge means denser air that makes more power.

Too much heat in the intake air means detonation.
Too much ignition timing means detonation.
Too little fuel means detonation.
Detonation means engine goes 'boom' in all the wrong ways
 

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lil_Blue_Ford

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Removing or punching out cats is illegal and not condoned by this website. It's Federal law to have them on all vehicles that came factory equipped with one and there is zero performance benefit to removing them. You can actually hurt performance by removing them because these trucks are designed and programmed to be operated with the cats in place.

And yes, we are serious.

Running boost, you'll also want a stronger transmission like an M5OD out of a Ranger. You probably have an FM-145 or -146, and both of them tend to fail behind a 4.0


Sent from my kite using a trebuchet
 

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Why not leave it to some bonehead to post-up, "Just swap in a 302". But it's great to jump on the Cat wagon and wack at the newbie.

RELAX Nancy's

No performance gain? I'll call BS on that with a boosted engine that requires more flow. Please show me evidence of how the EECIV or EECV would be effected if you removed Cats and to support your claim that it may run worse?

Anyone offer an alternative like a high flow Cat? Hell no, just bash at the newbie. I have run without a cat for a off-highway rig until I found and installed a high flow cat. The stock cats must be restrictive or in the least are not set-up for the extra flow of a blower. I am still looking at an off-road aftermarket "Y" pipe and adding a high flow cat to it. That would update the system and with the old SOHC 4 Cat system there has got to be better flow with a single, up to date, high flow Cat. I will check to see what will pass the visual with Colorado Air where I live and make sure it runs clean.


Now back to the question at hand. Read, search, etc. etc.

10lbs is a too much without an intercoooler and a good tune. I don't know if the rotating assembly will hold-up to 10lbs. I know if you don't have a good tune at 8lbs with the SOHC you risk a blown head gasket. At 10lbs I would want an intercooler and that would still be risking the rotating assembly holding-up. I looked into going to more boost and it gets much more expensive to build properly for it.

Tweecer.com has the older Fords covered well for tuning. Anything, Fuel Management Units (FMU), add a box timing, recalibrated MAF with larger injectors, etc., etc., are a band-aids versus doing it right by tuning electronically.

With a tuner you can input the MAF curve, injector size, Open loop fuel table and a timing table. You input what the computer is looking for in that sensor, actuator, or fuel/timing tables and it will run correctly.
 
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big help blown and stmitch. i have a lot to take in.

if im getting this right. let me know if im not.

higher psi injectors, recalibrated mass air, intercooler, good pcm tune. upgrade ignition to msd. = i can run 8 to 10 lbs boost.

if this is right, i can not for life of me find a company that makes tuners for these explorer motors.

oh and the trans is tk5.

lil blue ford im the one being serious. ive removed cats from many cars and always got a gain. either mpg or performance. engines just breathe better without them. espeaically obd 1 vehicles. im not concerned about it being illegal when i live in a town that doesnt require smog to be done when registering a car. if that was the case nobody would drive cars here cause everyones cars suck lol.

stmitch im going to find me a intercooler cause i do want to get the most out of this. i figured since the thunderbird had a intercooler i better get one too. i thought about changing pulley size because the one thats on it is small which will make it spin faster. if i was going to to get a no or dont do this thats to much kind of speech i was going to just make the pulley bigger and run with that
 

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The vast majority of tuners these days deal with OBDII stuff only. Since you're OBDI, your options are slimmer. You'll have to find somebody willing to burn a chip for you, or use something like a Moates Quarterhorse or Megasquirt.

Also, I'd hold off on the MSD ignition. Ford put pretty robust ignition systems in RBVs. I've never seen a boosted vehicle that needed more ignition than what the healthy stock system provided.
 

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big help blown and stmitch. i have a lot to take in.

if im getting this right. let me know if im not.

higher psi injectors, recalibrated mass air, intercooler, good pcm tune. upgrade ignition to msd. = i can run 8 to 10 lbs boost.
A recalibrated MAF is not needed with a tune/tuner. The actual MAF curve can be input for the MAF you use. The MAF will need to be able to read more flow than the stock MAF.

if this is right, i can not for life of me find a company that makes tuners for these explorer motors.

Look at Tweecer.com Look at options from a DIY device to getting a chip burnt with professional tunes. I have used the Tweecer on a Blown 302, 351, 393, currently my 4.0 SOHC and helping to tune a 4.0 OHV.

oh and the trans is tk5.

lil blue ford im the one being serious. ive removed cats from many cars and always got a gain. either mpg or performance. engines just breathe better without them. espeaically obd 1 vehicles. im not concerned about it being illegal when i live in a town that doesnt require smog to be done when registering a car. if that was the case nobody would drive cars here cause everyones cars suck lol.

I would run headers and a larger exhaust with larger three way single Cat. I did not mean to encourage you to not run a Cat. We all want clean air and water.

stmitch im going to find me a intercooler cause i do want to get the most out of this. i figured since the thunderbird had a intercooler i better get one too. i thought about changing pulley size because the one thats on it is small which will make it spin faster. if i was going to to get a no or dont do this thats to much kind of speech i was going to just make the pulley bigger and run with that
Check-out super six and morana for information and way too expensive parts. You better research what the bottom end can hold-up too regarding boost. Not saying it won't take 10lbs, but that is a lot without the strength of forged internals/rotating assembly.

http://www.supersixmotorsports.com/
http://www.moranav6racing.com/category.html?CategoryID=32
 
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Why not leave it to some bonehead to post-up, "Just swap in a 302". But it's great to jump on the Cat wagon and wack at the newbie.

RELAX Nancy's

No performance gain? I'll call BS on that with a boosted engine that requires more flow. Please show me evidence of how the EECIV or EECV would be effected if you removed Cats and to support your claim that it may run worse?

Anyone offer an alternative like a high flow Cat? Hell no, just bash at the newbie. I have run without a cat for a off-highway rig until I found and installed a high flow cat. The stock cats must be restrictive or in the least are not set-up for the extra flow of a blower. I am still looking at an off-road aftermarket "Y" pipe and adding a high flow cat to it. That would update the system and with the old SOHC 4 Cat system there has got to be better flow with a single, up to date, high flow Cat. I will check to see what will pass the visual with Colorado Air where I live and make sure it runs clean.
+1

We are totally changing the engine with a blower, exhaust is going to have to change too. This doesn't require going catless but it doesn't require the stock 2.9 or 4.0 cat either. And IMO there isn't much point to sink a whole lot of $$ in the exhaust until you have it running right.
 
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ok ok ok. i dont want to get f***** at the drivethru. ill get high flow cats built for this.


my first step is to get a tuner burnt for this make and model. then install it with the m90. next is to probably take it to some one who knows what they are doing to have it tuned right. then move to bigger exhaust with cats.

no msd not needed as the spark is strong enough.

am i missing anything
 

stmitch

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You have to match the amount of fuel to the amount of air being processed by the engine. So it's probably a good idea to have some other stuff figured out before you buy injectors.

Have you decided how much boost you're going to run?

Will the engine have any other modifications like porting/polishing, headers, etc that will affect airflow?

Will you be running Premium Unleaded gasoline, or something like e85 that needs more fuel flow?

I'm not familiar with the 4.0 specifically, but I'd guess that 32lb injectors might be enough for a basic engine running Premium fuel and 10psi or less. If you want some margin for error, or plan on more mods/boost or e85, then getting larger injectors is cheap insurance.

Just as a reference point, the Ford Racing supercharger for the 3.0 ran 8psi of boost and came with 24 lbs injectors. My 3.0 is modified quite a bit more than stock, runs 10psi and e85 with 42lbs injectors
 
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thanks for replying!

port/polish not yet. headers yes. trying to decide which ones. it already has 2.5 inch pipe to a high flow magnaflow. i should just need the headers to complete the exhaust portion. right?

i would like 8 to 10 pounds of boost. i read these motors are 9:1 compression so they should be able to handle it. i would have to get the things you talking about.

i would like to run 91. its the highest grade sold here in cedar city ut.

im working on a game plan. to get everything in order before i start buying stuff all willie nilly like.

so i have the eaton m90 off a 90 thunderbird. and thats it.

if you would mind stmitch. lay me out some sort of guide on how to go about this in a step series. ill save the page to my browser so i can go back and look at it. when i complete all the steps ill post back and let you know how everything goes. please and thank you
 

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