Cracked exhaust pipe after driving through puddle. No codes about cylidners.

I have a 6 cylinder 2000 Ranger with ~60K miles, and it has a lot of rust.
I drove thorugh a few 6" puddles 3 days ago. Immediatley after driving through the last one, I heard the muffler/engine sounding rough, but doesn't sound too bad compared to what I've read others had. I didn't think it was a big deal. I thought it would sort of fix itself. I drove like 2 horus on the highway like this, and there's no noticable power loss, and no alarming metal clanking sound.

A couple days after, I did some googling and apparently this could be really bad if water got in the enigne (I didn't know the air intake can actually be much lower than the air filter, so I didn't originally think I got much if any water in the engine, I'm also not sure if even the intake IS much lower on the 2000 Ranger vs the ait filter location, but that might be besides the point).

Today, I checked the air filter is indeed dry. I also sprayed WD40 on the spark plug wires because I read if you're lucky enough that the leads aren't damaged too bad that WD40 might actually fix it if one cylinder ins't firing after water gets on cracked wires, but that might not pertain to my situation but I did it anyway.

Next I plugged in the code reader, but thankfully I don't have any current or pending codes about any cylinders not working (there would be a code showing this, right?).
I just have the same 3 codes I've had for two years,
P0455 Evaporative Emession System Leak Detected (large Leak) $10 generic.
P0171 System Too Lean Bank 1 $10 Generic
P0174 System Too Lean Bank 2 $10 Generic


Then I looked under the truck while it was running and then I obviously see the exhaust pipe is completely cracked right past the catalytic converter. And I hear the "sound" coming from there.
What's strange though is that this sound only occured right after I drove though a puddle, as if water had something to do with it. I drive past through where the puddle a few times a week and there's no pot hole there that I can remember that would possibly cause the exhaust pipe to crack from vibration. the suspension is bad on this truck and I hit potholes all the time that are loud bangs basically, but still strange how this sound happened right after that puddle.


If the code reader isn't showing anything about cylinders misfiring or not firing at all, then I shouldn't worry about water in the engine, right?
I'm due for an oil change in about 400 miles but I'll get that done this week just to be safe, but I read water in the engine usually needs much more work than just an oil change.

As for the cracked pipe, what should I do? I'm planning on selling this truck in about 4 months basically as-is for engine and stuff, so I don't really want to replace the whole exhaust or anything.

You can see in the pictures where it's cracked is right at the weld joint. One picture shows me pulling the two ends apart making a gap, but otherwise it just sits close as if maybe I can just get it re-welded. Should I just get it rewelded how it is?



Those exhaust bandage wraps might hold BUT there's a lot of movement and it will likely just break soon because of the movement. If I can't have it welded, and if the bandage tape is not really an option, I'd like to cut the ends off and have a flex pipe welded on with a coupling to join the two different size pipes. Can I just cut the ends and put a flex pipe on and use metal epoxy instead of paying a shop ~$50 to weld it?

There's not much suspension support on the pipe from where the crack is to the other end near the muffler, so I'm afraid if I simply get it re-welded how it is now, that it'll just crack again. I could support the pipe with wires, but I don't think that'll do much. I have a bad shock on one side and it bottoms out and bangs and is a really bumpy ride.


I googled and read it's not much a big deal to drive with basically no muffler. The muffler does equalize back pressure though, and without it, can cause the engine to have more carbon build up. But my last queastion is, does it really matter? Can I just put that cheap bandage stuff over the crack and pass inspection and stuff and if the banage does split, I can just re-bandage it? I plan on selling the truck as-is because there's so much rust there's much more problems that this crack that I don't think it's worth fixing this the proper way if I'm basically selling this truck for the engine and parts.


I'm actually going to get the patch tape now for at least a temp fix just so it doesn't sound like a complete POS, but would greatly appreciate if anyone can add some insight on this issue. Thanks.

Ugh... THAT spot. They always crack there. Either weld in a new section (the pipe still looks solid enough), or clamp in some sort of flexible coupling.

Mine completely broke off there a while ago at the same very spot and this last time (unlike the other 6 times it rusted through and fell off), bent everything up behind the cat so it wasn't useable anymore. I literally just clamped a generic muffler to the end of the pipe, a 90° bend and a chunk of turn down pipe out the side to get it a little out further from underneath the truck to get by for a while.

I wish I knew why they ALWAYS break there.

Edit: Don't even bother with wrap, it'll fall off of that spot before the end of a day.

IMO you had hot weak metal and basically threw water on it which shocked it and made it crack. For an exhaust it can't really be helped.

IMO you had hot weak metal and basically threw water on it which shocked it and made it crack. For an exhaust it can't really be helped.

good point. I think that too now.

Someone said they had similar and just clamped a ~$50 universal muffler right past the cat where it's cracked, but I dunno if that'll pass inspection.


can I just use a rubber tube and clamp it on over the crack, or it has to be metal (welded coupling and/or metal flex pipe)?

a rubber tube will probably catch on fire or at least smell like hot burning rubber lol..

see what it costs to have it welded. might not be that much, and if you live in a state with inspections, you want it fixed right, and that possible 50 dollar repair job to have it welded might cost you the sale of your truck if the potential new owner doesn't want to deal with it.

Regards,

AJ

what's there now is a temporary fix from the past whose time has expired.
there is supposed to be a flex-joint coupling there.

best low-budget fix is to find a piece of adapter pipe to bridge to gap and clamp it on. cut the welded parts off, that thing in the middle is just rusted low grade steel waiting to finish its rusting.

rogerranger2122 said:

IMO you had hot weak metal and basically threw water on it which shocked it and made it crack. For an exhaust it can't really be helped.

good point. I think that too now.

Someone said they had similar and just clamped a ~$50 universal muffler right past the cat where it's cracked, but I dunno if that'll pass inspection.


can I just use a rubber tube and clamp it on over the crack, or it has to be metal (welded coupling and/or metal flex pipe)?

Click to expand...

That was me. No inspections her in Mi. I admit it's pretty rigged, but I'm tired of fixing it.

Welded flex coupling would be the way to go. Just bring it by an exhaust shop and just ask for a quote to put something in there, it's easy enough to see and get to it shouldn't be too bad.