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Vacuum Line Spaghetti


Old-Black-88

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1988
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My credo
Screw It... Theres always BEER.
Replacing the heater core in a 1st generation ranger is pretty easy, if you can handle being upside-down for a while. I did it all by myself in the freezing cold.

First and foremost: Bypass the heater core and flush your entire coolant system.

Don't bother trying to take out the glove box and all that carp. There is a panel on the bottom of the heater box,(behind the glove box) 6 screws and its open. Then you reach in and wiggle the old core out and slide the new one in. Slap your coolant lines back on (hopefully you bought new ones) and youre good to go.
 


Old-Black-88

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My credo
Screw It... Theres always BEER.
Thanks a ton Boys! I actually laughed out loud when I read that Mark.....I have another mystery, the truck turned over and ran when I got it, then I changed the spark plugs, I swapped the distributor, then I let it sit for 2 weeks, I went to start it up yesterday and deduced that the ignition coil won't spark, until I stop turning it over, one little spark right at the end, the truck won't start, help me! :p the ignition coil also gets way too hot to touch in acc......also I swapped out the ignition coil, and the cable from the coil to the distributor. Thanks in advance
Might be your ignition control module. Just a thought.
 

gregor7896

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Morning gents! One last thing, I got the old girl running! It turned out to be the pickup in the distributor that was faulty, I got it running nice and she's off for a safety! BUT, it idles just a little higher than I'd like, AND it can't accelerate for shit! However It doesnt cough or splutter or stall as I push on the gas, it just bogs down, like I've geared down too low, but I haven't. It struggles to stay in 5th and can't accelerate past 70kmph what's happening boys!?
 

tomw

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toenails of foothills NW of Atlanta
Vehicle Year
1985
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ford
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2.3 (4 Cylinder)
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lima bean
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Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
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vertical and above ground
I would be checking the ignition timing. When off, you can get very poor and low power production until you wind it up above 3k rpm. You have a distributor, right? Did you set the static timing to 10BTDC with the SPOUT jumper pulled?
tom
 

Mark_88

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Could be timing like tomw mentioned or it may actually be getting too much fuel. Problem is, I don't remember how or even if those carbs had any fuel adjustment.

timing adjustments should only be made after setting base timing with the vacuum line to the stator removed and plugged. That is the little line that should run from the nipple on the distributor to somewhere on the intake manifold or even the carburetor.

One thing you can check is to start the engine and then blip the gas while standing on the driver side looking at the distributor. When you blip the gas you should see a plate or arm move on the stator at the bottom of the distributor.

If you do not see this movement (this is with the vacuum line connected properly to the distributor and the intake or carb) then you do not have any vacuum advance on the timing. This will cause a sluggishness in the engine when trying to accelerate.

Try that test before doing anything with the timing.

If that works, remove the vacuum from the stator and plug the line so there is no vacuum leak. Check the timing and it should be somewhere between 6 and 10 degrees BTDC. The Haynes manual actually says 6 degrees so go with that. If you are not at that you need to set the timing again and test until you get that part right.

Then you can attach the line and fine tune idle by rotating the distributor left or right to raise or lower the idle.
 

tomw

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Location
toenails of foothills NW of Atlanta
Vehicle Year
1985
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ford
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
lima bean
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
My credo
vertical and above ground
I keep forgetting it is not EFI. I have an 85, and figure anything newer should have it also. But that is incorrect. Should pay more attention.
Depending on where the vacuum advance diaphragm was ported into the intake, it may have no vacuum until the throttle is opened, and would not have full advance until the vacuum in the manifold got higher. Mechanical advance should be in effect no matter the vacuum source. Above the throttle plate will make vacuum wait for throttle opening, below would use pure manifold vacuum.
If you have the vacuum connected, you should see the timing advance as the rpms increase, quite a bit, in fact. The advance is additive, in that mechanical{weights & springs under the distributor points/pickup plate} and vacuum are added onto each other. Mechanical will move portions of the distributor and vacuum will move the points or pickup.
tom
 

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