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Ford ranger sas dana44


Cody1219

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Hey guys I'm gathering everything I need to sas my 95 ranger. Planning on running 37" in descriptions I noticed a lot of guys are running 6" lift Chevy leafs up front. But I can't seem to find Wat Chevy their off of. Can anyone shed any light on this. I'd also like to know a rear spring set up to give me similar lift.

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Stay with coils on the 95. The crumple zone frame horns need a lot of modification to mount leaves on..a lot of work to downgrade your suspension makes no sense.

The truck is already setup for coils, why change to leaves?
 

Cody1219

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My only thought was the simplicity of it esspecialy when moving the axle forward.. And it's cheaper.. I'm also thinking of going with full width 60 front and 70 rear.

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bobbywalter

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Hey guys I'm gathering everything I need to sas my 95 ranger. Planning on running 37" in descriptions I noticed a lot of guys are running 6" lift Chevy leafs up front. But I can't seem to find Wat Chevy their off of. Can anyone shed any light on this. I'd also like to know a rear spring set up to give me similar lift.

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guys building trucks gone wild stuff?? or things you can level 5 trail and drive on thhe street??

what do you want to do?

build a trailer to events rig?

or something that is a hardcore rig but a bit streetable if necessary?

or something that is a jack of all and streetable in full?

a 6 in rear chevy 52 inch would put you pretty tall for reasonable use off road and not be the best ride and real rough depending on actual rate.... a front leaf would still be ridiculous and ride hard.

Stay with coils on the 95. The crumple zone frame horns need a lot of modification to mount leaves on..a lot of work to downgrade your suspension makes no sense.

The truck is already setup for coils, why change to leaves?

doing leaf setups, bolting a bridge to the crumple zone is not an issue ime. some angle and whatever type of bridging you want to use can net a bolt on setup depending on what axle is selected or pad width is used.

depending on what ppi coil and actual height of the coil loaded, the spring buckets that are stock can cause a varied assortment of spring bow and handling quirks. i see so many trucks that dont flex at all that are swapped, it is hard to keep from laughing at some of these poor bastards. it is because stock, the ranger has some serious rear flex to begin with. the only reason i can see to go with the longer leafs like the typical chevy swap is to further soften the ride..unless you have a seriously squishy front suspension. i can set a ttb up to have more usable travel then most of the typical sas trucks i see on the road. this being the goal of keeping the body as level as possible traversing terrain and obstacles. of course the same pros and cons apply. use too soft a spring and the truck is hard to handle on the road.




not that i dont agree with the, if your using a d44, get a radius arm setup...its a bolt in, and deal with the buckets over time if its not in the cards intially. because i do agree its usually the easiest method..

if your stuck with a leaf axle though....no fear of leafs. generally, they do ride harder. but that is faaarrr from an absolute.




My only thought was the simplicity of it esspecialy when moving the axle forward.. And it's cheaper.. I'm also thinking of going with full width 60 front and 70 rear.

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this is definitely something that can favor leafs. unless your using the later dodge or ford coil 60, then the leafs are ideal in setup time...or appear to be.

the problem with a 60 though is the unsprung weight, they are big fat heavy bastards. they are more prone to "w-ing" the leafs in the front when thrashing on them.

getting the spring rate and angle and shackle angles right and meeting ride height goals can be a challenge as well. i have to use the heavier spring due to my powertrain.

and total front axle weight is huge, a lesson i earned over time. the typical waggy spring is ok for reg rangers and s10's etc, add just 300 pounds over the front and it gets a totally different result. a 351 ranger with a winch cant use the same spring as a stock 4.0 5 speed when going to the line on soft ride and real flex.

i have moved shackles less then and inch and or shortened them or lengthened them an inch or so, and netted a totally different handing vehicle before....didnt change the spring, just the working geometry---totally different truck...good or bad.. quite amazing, and often times against operational theory and expectations.

with king pin axles, there a few hidden issues that can pop up for handling and death wobble etc...



all in what you want.


if a axle is setup for leaf, you can make it a bolt in....if its a ford radius arm setup...yo can usually make it a bolt in as well.

wont be perfect..wont work perfect..and can look ugly and stupid...but i have installed dana 60 leaf and 44 radius arm axles into ttb rangers and fullsize ttb fords with no welding.

not perfect...but worked. incremental upgrades from there to make it better or not will be half the fun.
 

Cody1219

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Yes I'm wanting a pretty capable trail rig but still able to drive it on the street

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Cody1219

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Hey thanx man that's more useful info than I've gotten yet. I was looking at some leafs for a Toyota pickup / 4runner. Possabliy a 3inch lift spring gront. There 2nd spring claims to have just under a 300 spring rate. 47" inches long and have a full military wrap front and 1/4 rear. I know a 3" lift spring isn't much but I figured once the drop brackets and shackles were on the lift would be considerably more. Any thoughts on ir, (do's or dont's) ??

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I have ran both leafs and coils on my 93 ranger. I am using a waggoner dana 44 so leafs were easier but not better. I am so glad I swapped to coils. Starting from scratch coils weren't much more because I had to do histeer to clear the leaf springs. I wouldn't have to do that with coils. I pushed the axle forward 3ish inches as well.

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Cody1219

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Wat radius arms did you use could buckets. etc?

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bobbywalter

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any of the builder stuff from ruff stuff and the like can work real well.


coils in general will ride better and work well.

but leafs can ride the same or better and work better then the typical sas coil swap.

it can sound confusing because it is, but the actual combination of parts dictates what happens. shackle in the front vs the rear etc have a big factor on performance as well.

but in general, the coils are by far the best way to go for ride.


you mentioned the lean towards the fw 60/70 combo...

with a gen 1 style ranger or any ttb chassis for that matter, if using the early style king pin 60, you can flip the long side steering link and use one hi steer arm to get going with a factory steering box, whether you use coils or leafs. those run 55-100 plus bux for the arm. that style axle also puts the pumpkin in a great spot as well to stay as low as possible.


one reason i run leafs is mainly due to the diesel engine i run. i knew when i did the sas swap i was doing a diesel sooner or later....which the sas swap was prompted by the destruction of rear 31 spline 8.8 axles and shrinking parts supply of ttb axles...not because i was wanting at that moment in time to do a sas...i was actually developing a heavy duty ttb when this all happened. for a daily driver weekend warrior i prefer the ttb. but it is what it is.

eventually i will have some form of turbo and the length of coil or coil over i want puts the bucket up past the rails. and thats whether ttb or sas... so untill the powertrain is where i want it i will stay on the leafs for now. they are much cheaper to tune and do not ABSOLUTELY RELY ON A TRAC BAR. i do run a trac bar sometimes, but the weight and force of the diesel requires some beefing to the chassis to be reliable with coils and sas. so there are pro and con to the selection. in your case this is not an issue...well yet. someday you may plop a big block in there for shits and giggles...ya never know:D


for ease or use, there are several styles of kits out there...the arms from duff are nice...but i will destroy them without beefing em up....you may never have an issue...weld on some wedges to whatever axle you go with and some straight buckets and you will have a simple stout setup.

they have a nice bucket kit. you can piecemeal a trac bar and bucket setup from their options here...http://www.dufftuff.com/category_s/92.htm.

not sure if that link will work right...but the trac bar was 150 or so and the buckets are 250ish... nice stuff for the price.

not sure if the trac bar mount can take the abuse from the weight of the d60 or not. but it is a nice piece.

so starting with a d44 coil axle can be done with livable performance compromises, hand tools and a decent shade tree with parts available.

up to you:icon_thumby:



on edit...
this is in work mode, front shackle 52 in blazer springs with 0 lift and destroyed rear base explorer springs. it is a custom pack but i regularly wrinkle up springs with the big tires. those tires are basically 33's... i call it 5.5-6 in of lift. is this too low or about what your looking to do for ride height? a 2 in over blazer spring would likely get the fram 2-4 inches higher depending on what you did with the mounts.

 
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Wat radius arms did you use could buckets. etc?

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Built my own three link setup. 2" square lower links. The upper is 1.75x.120 tube. Trackbar is 1.5x.25.

I modified the factory coil buckets for tj springs. I cut the factory tabs off and welded a plate across the top with a tube down the middle with a bumpstop inside the coil. I cut the factory shock mount off and mounted an f250 shock mount in its place. I max a 14 inch travel shock in the front.

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Cody1219

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Any pictures of all that?

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Cody1219

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No I like the the height of that I deffinatly don't want to go too tall but the ability to clear a 40" Tire would be awesome. I know I'm not going to get to crazy at first. But I want a good platform to start with where I'm not kicking myself later. I'm leaning towards the leaf setup. I think it's simple. And reliable.

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bobbywalter

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Any pictures of all that?

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whom do you ask... myself or rock ranger?

click the red link in rock rangers sig....there will be many in that thread who have equally well executed builds to study.


4x4 junkie on this board and pirate has an excellent setup you may want to look at that will allow you to stay with the ttb.


but with 40's on the menu, going right to a 60 is the best option in my view. i run up to 44 in tires, and even with my current low power engine, i fail those expensive 60 parts.

i dont have a regular build thread and my pictures are mostly old and random.


i have both a coil sas application and my leaf that i drive. the ranger is my main rig. coil usually will ride much better.
 

Cody1219

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How much flex do you with the blazer springs? And Wat is you reasoning for the shackles forward?

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Another thing to look at for a SAS swap would be a Wrangler JK axel. With that style suspension set up. JKs can get crazy flex usually have good road manners.

I have a TTB 97 Splash on a james Duff 5.5" and my 14 Rubicon is setting stock I am pretty sure in stock trim I can pull just about as much flex with the jeep as the jeep as my JD 5.5" on the ranger pulls.
 

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