bobbywalter
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- Joined
- Aug 9, 2007
- Messages
- 23,470
- Reaction score
- 4,668
- Points
- 113
- Location
- woodhaven mi
- Vehicle Year
- 1988
- Make / Model
- FORD mostly
- Engine Type
- V8
- Engine Size
- BIGGER
- Transmission
- Automatic
- 2WD / 4WD
- 4WD
- Total Lift
- sawzall?
- Tire Size
- 33-44
- My credo
- it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
define what the life span of this 4.0 sohc engine is?
3 chains are for the valve event timing...and one is for the balance shaft in the 4x4's. thats just retarded to my tiny little mind to do such a thing for minor emissions gains and 200 hp.
so what is the expected lifespan of a cammer?
70,000?
150,000?
200,000?
what is expected maintenance? ie-by the book, verse what really is going on?
fortunately, these things are usually awesome the first 150k....like most engines. bad maintenance separates em out pretty quick though. if these ohc made an easy factory 275 hp, i would agree the complications were worth the effort for the miserable fuel economy they return for the average user....but....ughhh. no....not an easy 275 hp.
most oil is from base one stock these days, so a good synthetic goes a long ways towards increasing the life of these overly complicated, extra bullshit for no reason, fuel gobbling, rube goldberg contraptions that are the defining moment for a sorry excuse of a truck engine ford turned out for a great platform that is the ranger.
at least compared to what they give the rest of the world fpr engines...(awesome diesels)...i have a hard time liking ford with the horrific decisions they have consistently made towards their enthusiasts.. you have to have deeeeep pocket to be a fanboy the last 20 years. the trainwreck of the current anti-theft systems these days was the final straw....
the 3.0 is certainly an acceptable engine for what your intending. the mazda 4 cyl motor has some serious potential over the 3.0 though..
the good news....if a guy runs a good synthetic type oil with the correct specs with 4-5 k change intervals, and changes the chain tensioners at 50-70 k they can go 250 plus before their grandsons explode the rear guides out of them in the woods sending the engine out in a blaze of wot glory....well, this has been my experience through one of the trucks i have maintained.
the guides last a long long time with good oil and good tensioner maintenance....if you never let them get to the point of cold start slack, they dont fail very quickly..if you clatter em around then shit gets broke....and i hate them so much now, i only work on one if it is someone close to me.
if you gave me one with a bad engine....i would body lift it and put a gm l/s 5.3 or 6.0 with a 4l80 and 208 or 241 t case in it. same or better economy...and a shit ton of power over stock.
but that is me.
one other alternative would be to build up the 4cyl longbed with a turbo...or swap a turbo engine from a fusion or something in it...they go 800-1800 around here, convert the trans to 4x4 and buy a t case and install a jeep axle under the front and have a seriously awesome little truck.
you can convert the later trucks to long bed as the frames are modularized. so you can potentially build your own ext cab long bed without any major engineering feats.
so there are options.
though your intentions lead me another way...
what you want to do out in the sticks screams old school 3/4 or 1 ton dodge with a manual trans and cummins to me for a single vehicle.
3 chains are for the valve event timing...and one is for the balance shaft in the 4x4's. thats just retarded to my tiny little mind to do such a thing for minor emissions gains and 200 hp.
so what is the expected lifespan of a cammer?
70,000?
150,000?
200,000?
what is expected maintenance? ie-by the book, verse what really is going on?
fortunately, these things are usually awesome the first 150k....like most engines. bad maintenance separates em out pretty quick though. if these ohc made an easy factory 275 hp, i would agree the complications were worth the effort for the miserable fuel economy they return for the average user....but....ughhh. no....not an easy 275 hp.
most oil is from base one stock these days, so a good synthetic goes a long ways towards increasing the life of these overly complicated, extra bullshit for no reason, fuel gobbling, rube goldberg contraptions that are the defining moment for a sorry excuse of a truck engine ford turned out for a great platform that is the ranger.
at least compared to what they give the rest of the world fpr engines...(awesome diesels)...i have a hard time liking ford with the horrific decisions they have consistently made towards their enthusiasts.. you have to have deeeeep pocket to be a fanboy the last 20 years. the trainwreck of the current anti-theft systems these days was the final straw....
the 3.0 is certainly an acceptable engine for what your intending. the mazda 4 cyl motor has some serious potential over the 3.0 though..
the good news....if a guy runs a good synthetic type oil with the correct specs with 4-5 k change intervals, and changes the chain tensioners at 50-70 k they can go 250 plus before their grandsons explode the rear guides out of them in the woods sending the engine out in a blaze of wot glory....well, this has been my experience through one of the trucks i have maintained.
the guides last a long long time with good oil and good tensioner maintenance....if you never let them get to the point of cold start slack, they dont fail very quickly..if you clatter em around then shit gets broke....and i hate them so much now, i only work on one if it is someone close to me.
if you gave me one with a bad engine....i would body lift it and put a gm l/s 5.3 or 6.0 with a 4l80 and 208 or 241 t case in it. same or better economy...and a shit ton of power over stock.
but that is me.
theres quite a bit to consider here though.Gonna buy and fix an old Ranger V-6
one other alternative would be to build up the 4cyl longbed with a turbo...or swap a turbo engine from a fusion or something in it...they go 800-1800 around here, convert the trans to 4x4 and buy a t case and install a jeep axle under the front and have a seriously awesome little truck.
you can convert the later trucks to long bed as the frames are modularized. so you can potentially build your own ext cab long bed without any major engineering feats.
so there are options.
though your intentions lead me another way...
what you want to do out in the sticks screams old school 3/4 or 1 ton dodge with a manual trans and cummins to me for a single vehicle.