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Need help changed TFI,Coil,Plug Wires,Plugs, same results


88 XLT Ranger

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I am real bummed out :-(

I got some great help from folks her on the TRS forum in my on going Saga. As most know I have issues of popping / Missing. My truck runs great at first start up let warm up 5 min. I get on the freeway its an uphill climb from 3200ft to 4000ft in elevation. I get like 4 miles up the grade it slows from 65mph to 45 mph than starts popping missing. I pull over waite until cool runs perfect again if not it will still pop and misfire it has to cool off first

I changed the TFI to new Motorcraft one and put new spark plug wires on with new plugs. I did see corrosion on three terminals and rust in the plug wire ends I cleaned each one than installed the new wires. I did notice the coil terminal was loose I could turn it by hand on the cap. I replaced TFI and wires and plugs not the coil. I fired it up runs perfect at 800rpm's at idle no jumping no jerking real smooth. I feel good thinking its going to run great well same area of the highway same area of the hill it starts loosing power popping missing. I got home running crappy shut it off replaced the coil fired up runs perfect it was only 10 min. Test drive 65mph than same area same issue over and over

My main thought is WTF why? I got to town popping missing opened the hood I could hear like a sharp sound like its miss firing between cylinders running on 5 cylinders. If the Dist cap and rotor was bad it would be miss firing from the get go not where I am having issues. I can't afford a used Toyota Tocoma off Road 4X4 at 20K I need this 4X4 its rough in the winter here. I am just lost spent almost $200 still in the same issue it can't be that hard to figure out

Any ideas or help is very much appreciate
 
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black_demon69

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I am real bummed out :-(

I got some great help from folks her on the TRS forum in my on going Saga. As most know I have issues of popping / Missing. My truck runs great at first start up let warm up 5 min. I get on the freeway its an uphill climb from 3200ft to 4000ft in elevation. I get like 4 miles up the grade it slows from 65mph to 45 mph than starts popping missing. I pull over waite until cool runs perfect again if not it will still pop and misfire it has to cool off first

I changed the TFI to new Motorcraft one and put new spark plug wires on with new plugs. I did see corrosion on three terminals and rust in the plug wire ends I cleaned each one than installed the new wires. I did notice the coil terminal was loose I could turn it by hand on the cap. I replaced TFI and wires and plugs not the coil. I fired it up runs perfect at 800rpm's at idle no jumping no jerking real smooth. I feel good thinking its going to run great well same area of the highway same area of the hill it starts loosing power popping missing. I got home running crappy shut it off replaced the coil fired up runs perfect it was only 10 min. Test drive 65mph than same area same issue over and over

My main thought is WTF why? I got to town popping missing opened the hood I could hear like a sharp sound like its miss firing between cylinders running on 5 cylinders. If the Dist cap and rotor was bad it would be miss firing from the get go not where I am having issues. I can't afford a used Toyota Tocoma off Road 4X4 at 20K I need this 4X4 its rough in the winter here. I am just lost spent almost $200 still in the same issue it can't be that hard to figure out

Any ideas or help is very much appreciate
check your cap & rotor for moisture / carbon tracking. also if i remember correctly ICM is mounted to dizzy could be getting hot / or going bad

check fuel pressure and replace fuel filter (fuel pressure would be my first guess as to what is causing your problem)
 
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88 XLT Ranger

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check your cap & rotor for moisture / carbon tracking. also if i remember correctly ICM is mounted to dizzy could be getting hot / or going bad

check fuel pressure and replace fuel filter (fuel pressure would be my first guess as to what is causing your problem)

I replaced the ICM with a new Motorcraft one I changed the fuel filter. I did run Lucas fuel injector cleaner two bottles in it on two tank fill up's. What is the best strongest fuel injector cleaner that wont harm the cat's? Is there a fuel pressure checker that you can get I know it has that valve stem deal in the fuel rail. Or how do you guy's check it?
 

88 XLT Ranger

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Going to give this a try Guy's

I am going to use Red Line synthetic SI-1 Fuel System cleaner it is "Vehicle Specific" fill the tank and hope for the best. Its real powerful stuff maybe there is water in the tank or a few clogged injectors. I buy gas at Cheveron and Am-Pm you never know about them stations
 

black_demon69

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I replaced the ICM with a new Motorcraft one I changed the fuel filter. I did run Lucas fuel injector cleaner two bottles in it on two tank fill up's. What is the best strongest fuel injector cleaner that wont harm the cat's? Is there a fuel pressure checker that you can get I know it has that valve stem deal in the fuel rail. Or how do you guy's check it?

fuel pressure can be checked with one of these https://www.amazon.com/OTC-5630-Fuel-Pressure-Test/dp/B000R5IASC/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1468700520&sr=1-5&keywords=fuel+pressure+tester
 

black_demon69

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Going to give this a try Guy's

I am going to use Red Line synthetic SI-1 Fuel System cleaner it is "Vehicle Specific" fill the tank and hope for the best. Its real powerful stuff maybe there is water in the tank or a few clogged injectors. I buy gas at Cheveron and Am-Pm you never know about them stations

fuel system cleaners are usually a waste of money. check your fuel pressure first..
 

Mark_88

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There is the FPR on the fuel rail and that is easy enough to check. Just pull the vacuum line off and see if you can smell gas in the hose...that indicates the diaphram is pooched...however...your truck runs fine up to a certain point (or did before the parts swap) so that pretty much eliminates the FPR since it would be problematic all the time...not just when the engine is warm.

I will say this...quite often when troubleshooting one issue...we run into another issue that complicates things...sometimes it is from something we do in the process...sometimes it is unrelated.

So...you said the problem initially was the engine runs fine until it warms up...then it starts to sputter and eventually dies...and that is a typical TFI getting too hot issue...but can be other things...not likely...but can be.

Now...you went through an extensive parts change that resulted in an even worse condition where the truck won't run...from what I see it won't run well at all.

When you moved the TFI harness you found it killed the engine immediately...

Correct?

If this is the current state of affairs...then the parts swap was not the problem...but you may have compounded the issue during handling of the TFI harness...

Were you able to check that more closely for broken wires or damage?

As often is the case with older wiring...the problem can be hidden as the wires can be frayed or corroded INSIDE the harness. These are fairly small gauge wires...and I can attest to them not having outward signs of damage yet caused MULTIPLE problems...

Let me know if this is where you are at or if I'm off again...

Part of the problem with these forums is they are linear so starting a new thread can get help to focus...but it also leaves the original issue out of the picture so someone who may be able to help has no clue that this started out as a possible TFI over heat issue...

So we need to keep that in mind...
 

black_demon69

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There is the FPR on the fuel rail and that is easy enough to check. Just pull the vacuum line off and see if you can smell gas in the hose...that indicates the diaphram is pooched...however...your truck runs fine up to a certain point (or did before the parts swap) so that pretty much eliminates the FPR since it would be problematic all the time...not just when the engine is warm.

I will say this...quite often when troubleshooting one issue...we run into another issue that complicates things...sometimes it is from something we do in the process...sometimes it is unrelated.

So...you said the problem initially was the engine runs fine until it warms up...then it starts to sputter and eventually dies...and that is a typical TFI getting too hot issue...but can be other things...not likely...but can be.

Now...you went through an extensive parts change that resulted in an even worse condition where the truck won't run...from what I see it won't run well at all.

When you moved the TFI harness you found it killed the engine immediately...

Correct?

If this is the current state of affairs...then the parts swap was not the problem...but you may have compounded the issue during handling of the TFI harness...

Were you able to check that more closely for broken wires or damage?

As often is the case with older wiring...the problem can be hidden as the wires can be frayed or corroded INSIDE the harness. These are fairly small gauge wires...and I can attest to them not having outward signs of damage yet caused MULTIPLE problems...

Let me know if this is where you are at or if I'm off again...

Part of the problem with these forums is they are linear so starting a new thread can get help to focus...but it also leaves the original issue out of the picture so someone who may be able to help has no clue that this started out as a possible TFI over heat issue...

So we need to keep that in mind...

forgot about the fpr

good points although it is hard to trouble shoot in text:D
 

Mark_88

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forgot about the fpr

good points although it is hard to trouble shoot in text:D
Haha...certainly is...I just hope it is something simple at this point because 9 times out of 10...it is.

It really used to get to me when trying to troubleshoot something and I did something like work on something else that needed fixing anyway...and I would mess something else up and end up so pissed off I wanted to shoot my truck...

Knowing, of course, that it was my fault all along because I wanted to fix everything all at once...so I had to backtrack what I did and start over...

That usually worked out well...but time consuming and frustrating...
 

88 XLT Ranger

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There is the FPR on the fuel rail and that is easy enough to check. Just pull the vacuum line off and see if you can smell gas in the hose...that indicates the diaphram is pooched...however...your truck runs fine up to a certain point (or did before the parts swap) so that pretty much eliminates the FPR since it would be problematic all the time...not just when the engine is warm.

I will say this...quite often when troubleshooting one issue...we run into another issue that complicates things...sometimes it is from something we do in the process...sometimes it is unrelated.

So...you said the problem initially was the engine runs fine until it warms up...then it starts to sputter and eventually dies...and that is a typical TFI getting too hot issue...but can be other things...not likely...but can be.

Now...you went through an extensive parts change that resulted in an even worse condition where the truck won't run...from what I see it won't run well at all.

When you moved the TFI harness you found it killed the engine immediately...

Correct?

If this is the current state of affairs...then the parts swap was not the problem...but you may have compounded the issue during handling of the TFI harness...

Were you able to check that more closely for broken wires or damage?

As often is the case with older wiring...the problem can be hidden as the wires can be frayed or corroded INSIDE the harness. These are fairly small gauge wires...and I can attest to them not having outward signs of damage yet caused MULTIPLE problems...

Let me know if this is where you are at or if I'm off again...

Part of the problem with these forums is they are linear so starting a new thread can get help to focus...but it also leaves the original issue out of the picture so someone who may be able to help has no clue that this started out as a possible TFI over heat issue...

So we need to keep that in mind...

Mark

There is no gas in the FPR vacuum tube looks clean no issue with the wires now I found a few corroded plug wires at the Dist cap. I think the same time I was moving the wires it died. I cleaned the cap put new wires on and no bad miss where it was stalling. The truck on first start up ran crappy drove it popping right off the bat I got it home. I went to Napa got Red Line fuel system cleaner put it in with 5 gals of gas fired it up stated running fine. I drove it a few miles down and up the highway no issues. The next day took it up the highway on the steep grade it dropped to 45 mph and started popping again like its running out of fuel. If the fuel pump was bad it would be popping all the time right? even when I get to town on the flat roads it still popping. Once I let it sit 10min its running fine

I got a fuel pressure gauge that valve stem looking thing on the fuel rail I got a valve stem remover. The valve inside can be pulled out? I got a steel beaded line two hose clamps make my own. Where should the fuel pressure be? you test with key on and than with it running? I did notice when cleaning the Dist cap where the plug wires plug on the coil one you can turn it. I don't think that can make this issue? A spark miss you can feel this is popping loss of power its got me stumped right now
 
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Mark_88

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Fuel pressure for an 88 fuel injected should be 35 to 40 psi pretty much all the time. The pressure may slowly bleed off if left sitting for a while but it is not supposed to typically...this indicates possible leaky injectors...but that is not your issue.

The fuel pump may be wonky as I had an 89 Tempo that I drove for 14 years and had the fuel pump replaced times...Ford kept replacing it under my 5 year warranty but when that ran out it seemed to fix itself...as I only replaced it once after that and drove another 9 years trouble free...

NOW...that I'm on that topic...my car would do strange things...mostly just die on the highway (always on the highway) when the fuel pump was going. If I sat on the side of the road for ten minutes I could start and drive with no problems...sometimes all day...sometimes just till I hit highway speed...then it would die...

That was almost always on warm days...never did it in the winter...ever...always more likely if there was a wild temp swing like 15 degrees at night then 25+ in the afternoon...when it would die...

Only other similar problem I was having with that was the Inertia Switch would trigger when I hit bumps...mostly larger bumps but almost always at high speeds...it would kill the pump...I would coast off the highway...sit for a bit...and it would start again...until the last go round where the IS simply fried beyond function.

You can test that part of it by jumping the inertia switch. It is up under the passenger side dash and has two wires...pull the connector and jumper the two wires and test...if it doesn't die then you may have a wonky IS...otherwise...you may need to take another giant leap of faith and change the fuel pump...but you can put an in-line tester on it to keep an eye on the fuel pressure....there was a youtube video of this and it works to tell you if you are losing fuel pressure on the road...just a bit dangerous if you don't do it right because you are dealing with spewing raw fuel...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=poS2K9VdTR8
 
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black_demon69

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Fuel pressure for an 88 fuel injected should be 35 to 40 psi pretty much all the time. The pressure may slowly bleed off if left sitting for a while but it is not supposed to typically...this indicates possible leaky injectors...but that is not your issue.

The fuel pump may be wonky as I had an 89 Tempo that I drove for 14 years and had the fuel pump replaced times...Ford kept replacing it under my 5 year warranty but when that ran out it seemed to fix itself...as I only replaced it once after that and drove another 9 years trouble free...

NOW...that I'm on that topic...my car would do strange things...mostly just die on the highway (always on the highway) when the fuel pump was going. If I sat on the side of the road for ten minutes I could start and drive with no problems...sometimes all day...sometimes just till I hit highway speed...then it would die...

That was almost always on warm days...never did it in the winter...ever...always more likely if there was a wild temp swing like 15 degrees at night then 25+ in the afternoon...when it would die...

Only other similar problem I was having with that was the Inertia Switch would trigger when I hit bumps...mostly larger bumps but almost always at high speeds...it would kill the pump...I would coast off the highway...sit for a bit...and it would start again...until the last go round where the IS simply fried beyond function.

You can test that part of it by jumping the inertia switch. It is up under the passenger side dash and has two wires...pull the connector and jumper the two wires and test...if it doesn't die then you may have a wonky IS...otherwise...you may need to take another giant leap of faith and change the fuel pump...but you can put an in-line tester on it to keep an eye on the fuel pressure....there was a youtube video of this and it works to tell you if you are losing fuel pressure on the road...just a bit dangerous if you don't do it right because you are dealing with spewing raw fuel...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=poS2K9VdTR8
yes listen to mark the wise one :icon_thumby::D

one other note is that fuel also helps keep fuel pump cool so running low all the time isn't good either:icon_twisted:
 

88 XLT Ranger

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Fuel pressure for an 88 fuel injected should be 35 to 40 psi pretty much all the time. The pressure may slowly bleed off if left sitting for a while but it is not supposed to typically...this indicates possible leaky injectors...but that is not your issue.

The fuel pump may be wonky as I had an 89 Tempo that I drove for 14 years and had the fuel pump replaced times...Ford kept replacing it under my 5 year warranty but when that ran out it seemed to fix itself...as I only replaced it once after that and drove another 9 years trouble free...

NOW...that I'm on that topic...my car would do strange things...mostly just die on the highway (always on the highway) when the fuel pump was going. If I sat on the side of the road for ten minutes I could start and drive with no problems...sometimes all day...sometimes just till I hit highway speed...then it would die...

That was almost always on warm days...never did it in the winter...ever...always more likely if there was a wild temp swing like 15 degrees at night then 25+ in the afternoon...when it would die...

Only other similar problem I was having with that was the Inertia Switch would trigger when I hit bumps...mostly larger bumps but almost always at high speeds...it would kill the pump...I would coast off the highway...sit for a bit...and it would start again...until the last go round where the IS simply fried beyond function.

You can test that part of it by jumping the inertia switch. It is up under the passenger side dash and has two wires...pull the connector and jumper the two wires and test...if it doesn't die then you may have a wonky IS...otherwise...you may need to take another giant leap of faith and change the fuel pump...but you can put an in-line tester on it to keep an eye on the fuel pressure....there was a youtube video of this and it works to tell you if you are losing fuel pressure on the road...just a bit dangerous if you don't do it right because you are dealing with spewing raw fuel...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=poS2K9VdTR8

Thanks Mark

I will get a fuel pressure test on it once I get it rigged up and now that I know the pressure is 35-40 psi. Also Mark when I turn the key on I only hear a click no sound of a fuel pump running. I hope with your help and other folks here I can get this figured out. Again thank you so very much will post my results here of fuel pressure test
 
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Spott

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You should hear that pump run for ~2 seconds when you turn the key on, it's not quiet. If you can't hear the frame pump running, can you hear the tank pump run? They're wired together.

Aside from the pump itself, other suspects will be the fuel system wiring, connectors, inertia switch, and fuel pump relay. I'd be amazed that the engine runs at all, if the main pump isn't running.

You should get the fuel pump sorted before searching for other problems.
 
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88 XLT Ranger

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You should hear that pump run for ~2 seconds when you turn the key on, it's not quiet. If you can't hear the frame pump running, can you hear the tank pump run? They're wired together.

Aside from the pump itself, other suspects will be the fuel system wiring, connectors, inertia switch, and fuel pump relay. I'd be amazed that the engine runs at all, if the main pump isn't running.

You should get the fuel pump sorted before searching for other problems.

When I turn the key on I don't hear the frame pump I do hear a faint pump sound like the tank pump. We did change that back in 2002 when I had the ignition module fail we thought it was the fuel pump. I am going to do a fuel pressure test this evening if I can get it rigged up. I don't hear anything from the frame pump
 

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