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need a little help please


stingray

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hey guys, i have a 2001 ranger 3.0 that i bought off of a guy,it didn't run when i bought so i replaced crank sensor,cam synchronizer,plugs,wires,still never ran,tore engine apart and found blown head gasket,took heads to machine shop and found head was cracked so i purchased 2 new heads,put engine back together along with installing new timing chain and gears and all new gaskets,engine will now run but very hard to start,i have pulled cam sync. and repositioned,still hard to start,idles rough and lacks power no matter where cam sync. is positioned. hell it will even start 180 degees out but still runs the same,i have to hold it to the floor to get it to start.can someone please help me out with this problem?getting kinda aggrevated. thanks:icon_confused:
 


Rearanger

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Is the hard start when engine hot, cold or both? If you spray starting fluid into the intake will it start easier?
 

adsm08

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Plug wires on right?
 

RonD

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+1 ^^
Don't know how many times I double checked firing order and KNEW it was right, only to find it was wrong, lol.

Did the CEL(check engine light) come on when you were moving the cam syncro around?
It should.
If it didn't then there could be a problem there.

If the CEL is on then have you checked the codes?
 

stingray

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thanks for the replys guys but i have checked several times on the firing order and it is correct.it is hard to start cold or hot,don't know what the problem is but it is frustrating,didn't think that it would start being 180 out but o' well. i will figure it it out.i'll let everyone know when i do. thanks again
 

RonD

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Just to rule it out I would check the compression on a few cylinders.
I am sure timing chain marks were lined up correctly.........but if not then the lower compression could give you those symptoms.

The '01 requires 60+psi at the fuel rail for injectors to operate properly.

If it is a Flex fuel model then there is a fuel sensor that tells computer what type of fuel is being used, if this has been disconnected or is bad it can effect the fuel/air mix.
If 8th digit in the VIN is a "V" it is a Flex Fuel model.
It is a long shot but not a 0 shot.

The cam sensor is not responsible for basic spark, that is the Crank(CKP) sensors job, the cam position sensor synchronizes spark and injectors, so engine will run without it, it just won't run very well.
Engine will not run at all if CKP sensor fails.
 

firebomb

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the how to in my ranger book says for hard to start when cold is to check the fuel and electronic starting systems. i would start with the fuel pressure connect a gauge and see if it maintains pressure that mean you got to turn the key on till it primes then see if it maintain that pressure if it drops at all below specified there is a leak or a bad fuel pump. i have had injector leak and cause the same problem it took taping them after doing ahead gasket o get them to close if not replace all injectors . another think you can do is get six dixie cups pull the injector rail w/ injectors attached and set them in the cups. that is if you find a leak and it not the pressure regulator feeding back to the tank. put a injector in each cup and turn the key to the start position don't crank it. if one cup is filled with any thing it is a bad injector... this is if the fuel pressure dropped in the first place...


next i would check with a spark gap tester sold at oRiley's auto parts and advanced . make sure it has a white blue spark off the original plug to ground. could be the coil pack/s is going bad etc... too. and you get a weak yellow red spark. any ways hope this all help i would think the coil pack would set the code but not all ways does it... the spark tester is like $5 bucks at those stores. so try to test be fore you replace cause i think those coil packs run about $100 each.


hope this all help you best of luck to you.....
 

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