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2.9 won't restart


bIIjr

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86 bronco ii won't restart after warmed up. Ran key off test comes up with two egr codes. Won't let me do key on cause won't start. Was thinking of doing egr delete. But not convinced cause will flood itself trying to restart. Any ideas ??
 


RonD

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Reads like a TFI ignition system issue more than EGR valve stuck open.
They have a tendency to stop working when warm.

Stuck open EGR valve effects engine cold or warm.
EGR system allows timing to be more advanced so better power and MPG without "pinging", but yes they can be a PITA to maintain.

Good read here on TFI:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.html


On fuel injected engines if you turn on the key, and then press gas pedal to the floor BEFORE cranking engine, the computer will shut off the injectors as long as you hold the gas pedal down to the floor.
This is a common software routine for all EFI systems, that allows clearing of a flooded engine.
I would try this next time you have a "no start".
If engine fires while your foot is on the gas pedal then spark is working but then you may have some leaking injectors that are flooding the engine, because engine shouldn't fire unless there is fuel present.
When engine sits for 6 hours the fuel evaporates, but on warm restart engine may be flooded because fuel is still there.
 
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bIIjr

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See this is where I'm torn it has new injectors and tfi really everything under cap as well. And the restart intermittent. Sometimes will be a day and next 10 minutes. Has a major carbon issue. I been chasing that down also. New plugs are jet black. Buddy put new top end on heads plugs injectors cap wires the whole nine. I had to replace tank pump and relays and plugs pick up coil and the iac
 

bIIjr

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Also should add it will shut down after 15to 20 minutes running spring is coming I need this fixed
 

RonD

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OK, a couple of other things to check.

The computer uses it's own ECT(engine coolant temp) sensor, it is not connected to dash board temp gauge.
ECT sensor is a 2 wire sensor.
Dash gauge uses a 1 wire sender.

The 2 wire ECT sensor is easy to test with OHM meter, look here:
http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=28

When computer reads ECT sensor and "sees" cold engine it will run engine rich with advanced timing and high idle, this is "choke mode" for EFI systems.
As the ECT sensor warms up the computer "sees" this and leans out mixture and starts to lower idle.
If ECT sensor or wiring is bad then computer "sees" cold engine and runs rich all the time.
ECT sensors rarely fail, not never but rarely

Next, if possible borrow or rent a fuel pressure tester.
Fuel pressure should be between 30-35psi, engine off or engine on.
The computer has no way to "see" fuel pressure, it assumes 30-35psi.
If pressure was 40-50psi then injectors are open too long, too much fuel is going in causing rich condition.
This could be a Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR) issue, FPR is on the fuel rail it has a vacuum line attached, remove vacuum line and check if there is fuel inside line or it smell like gas.
If so replace FRP.
Also check the whole vacuum line for holes or cracks, it must be a good vacuum or FPR can't work.

If no smell or gas in vacuum line then watch fuel pressure when idling, remove FPRs vacuum line and fuel pressure should go up, reattach and fuel pressure should drop to 30-35psi.
If removing and reattaching FPRs vacuum makes no difference, replace FPR
 

bIIjr

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Ok so for the price I'm replacing the ect it's cheap. I will look over the wiring and check the fpr over then as well. Thank you for your help
 

RonD

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Coolant temp "sender" for dash board gauge is cheap(1 wire)
2 wire ECT "sensor" costs more.
Most auto part store guys don't know the difference, so make sure you are getting the right part.
 

bIIjr

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