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460 swap


5.0

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Hopefully I can start my 460/C6 swap into my '93 this week.

I have two 460 motors, one than runs from a '70 Lincoln and the other that doesn't run from a '69 Lincoln. I bought the '69 motor mostly because of the complete FEAD on it. It has a short style water pump (there is no crank pulley, the belts ride in the balancer) and the crankshaft mounted power steering pump that I'm thinking about trying to use. The '70 has alternator and power steering brackets on it, but they are from another engine family and the belts don't line up perfectly like I want, but I may be able to get them to work. Another option is to sell the FEAD and timing cover from the '69 (big $$$ from what I've read) and use that money to buy the right brackets for the 460 and use the standard power steering pump.

I brought my C6 to the transmission shop and he emptied the case for me. It's a lot easier lifting an empty case into place for the mock up than a full one, especially since I may need to do it several times.

The plan is to get the motor mounts done using the empty transmission case, then bring the case back to the transmission shop for him to rebuild it. Then paint the motor and swap a cam in it and throw a Stealth intake on top.

Anyway, here's a few pics of the trans and the '69 motor to look at for no productive reasons whatsoever...















 


bobbywalter

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93 2wd wont be too bad to do.

early style dakota racks i have seen fabbed in with the cleveland and 460 type fords.


i suggest a new damper/pulley for the crank though.
 

RoidedRanger

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good luck man its a TIGHT sqeeze. luckily i hav a bed mounted radiator because even with it out i still hav to turn the motor sideways to get it past the core support and it BARELY goes in. i also had to offset the motor to clear the steering column. glad i went with the 3" body lift that made things a little easier. also headers are a biotch. since im not running mine on the street and just going wiht open headers i ran mine over the frame rails and made fenderwell exit style headers.
 

bobbywalter

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i would have to assume modding the core support and inners to be removable as a matter of course:dunno:

smoothing/back setting the firewall is common as well, this allows easy relocation of the steering shaft and exit to run with whatever steering setup one wants.

custom work no matter what one does.
 

skx762

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Tilt the front and make it lock in with two pins on the hinges. Run all the wires down the frame and make it QD at the grill. :/

I'm scheming on mine right now since the prior owner started is sort of.

I think I will try two braces from the firewall to the radiator/core support and cut and brace the outer sides of the core support so it holds the inner and outer fenders together and brace across the front grill/hood to hold it all together.
 
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t120r

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www.bigblockranger.com I actually have his headers and heater box.:) Check out his writeup. The swap is a lot easier than most people make it out to be. Plan your fuel system & exhaust carefully. I advise a remote mounted electric water pump as well. Will make things fit much nicer.
 

RoidedRanger

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mine really wasnt that hard to do but i dont hav the aminities that most other people do. ive removed the heater box, radiator, condensor, battery, and almost everything else thats in the engine compartment. my core support is completely stock and unmolested.

instead of trying to fab up motor mountes to use ont he stock crossmember i got a pre-made crossmember for a 460 and cut out the stocker. but then again im not running the stock I-beam front suspension.

think im going to get a mid plate for mine because i dont htink these frames are built to withstand the torque of a BBF, esspecially a modified one with nitrous.
 

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i suggest a new damper/pulley for the crank though.
Do you suggest a new damper because of how old it is? How important is a new one? The reason i ask is that they are not easy to find, and would likely be expensive if I would find one.

i still hav to turn the motor sideways to get it past the core support and it BARELY goes in. also headers are a biotch. since im not running mine on the street and just going wiht open headers i ran mine over the frame rails and made fenderwell exit style headers.
Yes it is tight. I was able to twist mine and get it to sit down in there without cutting anything, but I had a front sump oil pan on it at the time and couldn't do anything other than drop it in. Do you have any pics of the headers, either while being built or completed?

Is that the power steering pump behind the harmonic damper?
Yes, it slips over the crankshaft and bolts to a special timing cover.

I advise a remote mounted electric water pump as well. Will make things fit much nicer.
I'd love to have one, but I'm unsure how long they last on a daily driver motor. I'll research it a little and see how long they last compared to a mechanical pump, and your welcome to share your opinion of the dependability of an electric pump on a daily driver as well.



.
 

RoidedRanger

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ive had the motor in the truck but upon beak-in it wiped the lobes on the cam and trashed the motor. iv got it out now and waiting on money.

i can take some pics of the headers off the truck if you want.
 

RoidedRanger

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snapped some pics of my headers today while i was in the shop with my phone. they are not pretty yet and the stuff thats on them is OSPHO a rust neutralizer. i didnt want to ge them all ceramic coated and find out i hav to tweak them a little more in the future.

anyway these are heddman weld up headers for a BBC then i got some BBF header flanges. they are 2-1/4" primary tubes with a 4" collector. in order to go over the frame i had to make little 45* pieces that will make the primarys go straight off the head to clear the frame, my motor is set down low as possible in the frame. since im running fully hydraulic steering i dont hav to worry about going around a steering box. the way i built them the collector is about 3-4" away from the cab mount under the front of the doors with as a downswept header and with a slight angle-out. took me by myself about 1 full day per side after i had all the 45* pieces cut (i just got a piece of tubing bent and cut off little sections of it).

both headers together. youll notice one is narrower than the other, thats because i had to shift the motor to the passenger side to get the valve cover to clear the steering column.


here you can see the flanges with a little 45* pieces.


wish i woulda took some pics with them on the truck, IMO they look freakin awesome. during the short time i was running the motor i realized that these are VERY loud. definatly not suitable for street use.:icon_rofl:
 

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ive had the motor in the truck but upon beak-in it wiped the lobes on the cam and trashed the motor. iv got it out now and waiting on money.

i can take some pics of the headers off the truck if you want.
Thanks for the pics!

How did it wipe the lobes? Is it easy to do? Error on your part? I'm a noob here who is going to attempt a cam swap, but I don't want to screw it up.


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Wow, a 460 jumps into place in a Ranger like it was meant to be there!

The motor mounts are going to be easy for this. I've got the motor sitting as far back and as low as possible. The right side top transmission bolt was touching the firewall. The left cylinder head was touching the firewall. The oil pan is about 3/4" off of the I-beam. When the final motor mounts are done the motor will be moved away from the firewall about 1/4". The left cylinder head is 1/4" from the steering column where it comes through the firewall. The motor sits about 2.5" off center toward the passenger side.

The motor mounts I'm using are 460 swap mounts for putting a BBF into a late 70's F250. They consist of a steel plate that bolts to the block and a rubber mount that bolts to the steel plate. The rubber mount has a threaded stud just like the stang 302 mounts.

I'm thinking a thread-on oil filter adapter will fit between the block and power steering box, there is about 1.5" of clearance there. The #8 header primary tube will be tight because it's pretty close to the steering shaft. I'll have to swap the shaft for something else.

Taking rough measurements, the 460 isn't much longer, if any, with the FEAD than my Crown Vic motor with it's FEAD. The Crown Vic FEAD is a fairly thick package though for a 302.

The transmission will NOT fit if trying to install it from underneath, there is not enough room between the radius arm mount crossmember and the transmission tunnel/firewall. Rather than making the crossmember removable I just dropped the transmission in through the engine compartment and that worked just fine.

Overall things are going great!


Now for a few pics...







Start of the day...










New oil pan









Motor mounts










Transmission dropped in from up top








Oh yeah... now the fun begins!








Left and right, front and back










And this is what I ended up with...










 

t120r

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ive had the motor in the truck but upon beak-in it wiped the lobes on the cam and trashed the motor. iv got it out now and waiting on money.
That's the exact reason I went with a solid roller. Cost a lot of money, but now I won't have to worry about startup. Soooo many people ruining flat tappet cams now that they took the Zinc out of oil.
 

5.0

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Soooo many people ruining flat tappet cams now that they took the Zinc out of oil.
What about using a diesel oil, like Shell Rotella T or something similar? I've read it still has the "stuff" needed to run a flat tappet cam.

I'd like a hydraulic roller, but they're a little more money than I want to spend.



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