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Turbo


Slightsleeperxlt

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Hey people what's a good bolt on turbo kit for the 3.0 ranger???

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RonD

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Welcome to TRS :)

3.0l Vulcan engine is not a good candidate for super or turbo charging.

Read up on compression ratios and boost pressure.
If you were racing in a 3.0l maximum displacement class and they allowed boost then custom build a twin turbo after beefing up the pistons and engine.
But there is no "kit"

Money would be better spent on a fast car or putting a V8 in the Ranger
 
stmitch

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I'm going to disagree with Ron a little and say that the 3.0 does just fine with boost. They're stout little engines. People have run up to 20psi on stock bottom ends, and the Whipple/Ford Racing supercharger kit that was designed and warrantied by Ford ran around 10 psi.

That being said, there are no bolt on turbo kits. If you want a turbo 3.0, you'll have to make your own.
 
Enemy

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stmitch said:
I'm going to disagree with Ron a little and say that the 3.0 does just fine with boost. They're stout little engines. People have run up to 20psi on stock bottom ends, and the Whipple/Ford Racing supercharger kit that was designed and warrantied by Ford ran around 10 psi.

That being said, there are no bolt on turbo kits. If you want a turbo 3.0, you'll have to make your own.
Click to expand...
That's very cool that Ford did warranty a bolt on at 10psi! That tells me that stock pistons should take that all day long on a good tune ya think? I am new to the 3.0L and now own my very first one as of about 3 days ago, a 2000 4x4 3.0l Automatic. Have been reading up and finding out how tuff these little motors are!! WOW
And damn long lived if a guy takes care of their fluids regularly..
But it is a bit of a pooch in this truck..
And the milage aint that great.
And the frond axles are always spinning.
And it's an auto..
I hate autos..
It needs a manual..
And Boost.
 

delaware74b

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IMO, they have only 1 weak spot. Camshaft synchronizer/position sensor. The bushings dry out and it jams, usually breaking a drive tooth off. Once that happens, the synchro stops spinning. The shaft in the synchro also drives the oil pump off the bottom of the drive gear. In other words, break a tooth you lose the oil pump. By the time the idiot light comes on, your engine is trashed. The oil pressure switch shuts the light off around 5psi. Not good, Ford.
 
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