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Need 3.0 Advice for Rebuild


StrangerRanger

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Hi Gang,
My 95 Ranger 3.0 has got 250K on it and I am going to rebuild it. Or, rather, I am going to get a 3.0 out of the local wrecking yard and rebuild that so it will be ready to go by summer.

I am not interested in swaps as I don't have the time to mess around with fabs, etc. and I am generally happy with my 3.0 as I get 22-23 on the freeway at a steady 65.

However, I would like to punch-up the 3.0 a bit. So any suggestions would be welcome. I don't want to go extreme, just any ideas to up the hp/torque a bit would be welcome.

Has anyone had any luck with different cams? How about boring-out the block? How large can I take it reliably? Do headers do anything for this engine?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Terence
 


RonD

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Welcome to TRS :)

3.0l rebuild info here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/3_0-build.shtml

More Ranger 3.0l info here, with some suggestions: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/3_0performance.shtml

This is a good page to bookmark, has the above plus lots more Ranger stuff: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/index.shtml


Increasing HP/Torque for any engine is simple, make it use more air :)
A gram of gasoline has a fixed amount of power, if you burn it with 14.7 grams of air you will get the most power from that gram of gasoline, 14.7:1 ratio
If you only add more fuel you just get a flooded engine, not more power, so you need to add more air THEN you can add more fuel to get more power
A 5 LITER engine has more power than a 3 LITER engine because it can use 2 LITERS more of air, so can use more fuel on each RPM
Larger cams can get more air in
Turbo and Super chargers Stuff more air in, so more fuel can be use at the same 14.7:1 ratio
Stroking increase air volume, 3.0l becomes 3.3l so can use more air

Common theme, more air, lol, simple
 
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adsm08

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Get a pair of 1-litre cylinders and weld them to the front of the engine.
 

stmitch

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What kind of budget are we talking about?
 

StrangerRanger

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More on my 3.0 Rebuild

Hi Gang,
My 95 Ranger 3.0 has got 250K on it and I am going to rebuild it. Or, rather, I am going to get a 3.0 out of the local wrecking yard and rebuild that so it will be ready to go by summer.

I am not interested in swaps as I don't have the time to mess around with fabs, etc. and I am generally happy with my 3.0 as I get 22-23 on the freeway at a steady 65.

However, I would like to punch-up the 3.0 a bit. So any suggestions would be welcome. I don't want to go extreme, just any ideas to up the hp/torque a bit would be welcome.

Has anyone had any luck with different cams? How about boring-out the block? How large can I take it reliably? Do headers do anything for this engine?


Today I got a 2002 block from local yard. I am going to tear it down and rebuild it. It will get the usual massage from my local machine shop and I will spend the rest of winter putting it back together.

I am going to use the 1995 heads as I had them machined about a year ago and updated with new exhaust valves. They passed all tests with flying colors and I don't anticipate higher than normal revs so they will be just fine.

Thanks for all the pointers so far but not really an answer to my question. Perhaps I wasn't clear so let me try again.

I want to know if anyone has personal experience with getting a little more pep out of this engine?

I want a modest gain in torque and/or hp do that won't call for major modifications.

I can go with a bore increase easily enough but is this worth the expense? I am going to have the bottom-end balanced anyway and could get new pistons. Is this worth it?

Does the 2002 manifold, etc. make any difference. Should I use it in place of the 1995?

What about under-turning the pullys? Does anyone have any experience with this on the 3.0? Should I use an electric fan instead of direct-drive fan? Are headers worth it for this engine?

I am not opposed to spending a bit of money but would like to keep it under a grand if possible.

So again, thanks a bunch for the help. You guys have given me a lot to think about.
 

StrangerRanger

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Thanks for the links. Great stuff.
TR
 

RonD

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Yes, electric radiator fan frees up some power, very good option to go with

Under drive pulley can as well, but you have to watch for under charging by alternator. you may need to change alternator pulley size if that happens

Boring out cylinder increases displacement so allows engine to use more air, so more power, but......it won't be much, usually this is only done if a cylinder wall has some damage.

Headers don't add power they just change when you get extra power from lower exhaust pressure.
Car makers have been using Scavenging exhausts since the 1970's
Basically it works like this:
You use a smaller pipe at the head, small enough to create a Velocity in the pipe when exhaust valve opens but not small enough to restrict exhaust flow
Then that smaller pipe dumps exhaust into Larger pipe(collector)
When this Velocity suddenly hits the larger pipe it causes a Pressure Drop in the larger pipe(like a siphon effect), AND any other smaller pipes connected to it, i.e. the other cylinders on that bank.
The size and length of the smaller pipe and the size of the collector determines when the lowest pressure will occur in the RPM band
Rangers have Mid RPM band exhausts now
Most people want more power at lower RPM band so those are the most popular headers.
Racing headers are made to get lowest pressure at higher RPMs

So those are the choices, low, mid, or high RPMs, it only works for one band

Why it works is because when there is a lower pressure at the exhaust port in the head the crank doesn't lose as much power PUSHING the exhaust out, so more power for rear wheels.

The MYTH of engines needing back pressure comes from factory Scavenging exhausts
People would install "Free Flow" exhaust headers, larger pipes, and then go for a test drive.....
"Hey WTF!!! I lost power"
"This engine must need Back Pressure"

Result was expected, they lost the scavenged power from the lower pressure the factory exhaust provided.
But the conclusion was wrong, no 4-stroke engine runs better with Back Pressure, lol.
Try putting a potato up the exhaust pipe :)

Roller rockers reduce power needed by valve train so more power for rear wheels

No car maker designs an engine to have less power, they do have to deal with emissions levels each year but doesn't strictly limit power.

3.0l Vulcan is a higher RPM engine, it needs to be above 3,200 RPM to get best torque, so you must drive it that way.
If you drive it like a 4.0l(best torque at 2,500) then it will seem gutless, not that it is a power house, lol, but you do need to drive it for its design.
 

stmitch

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The e-fan and underdrive pulleys are a nice combo. I saw gains in fuel economy and the butt dyno when I did mine.

The biggest issue you'll run into is tuning the PCM to accept any significant mods. Being OBDI, you'll need a chip or something like a Moates Quarterhorse. There aren't many tuners that mess with those things anymore. Everything now is plug in OBDII stuff.

This website ( http://roguegroupllc.com/boss.html ) probably has the most 3.0/mod info for that vintage. IF nothing else, it's worth a read through.
 

StrangerRanger

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Thanks for the tips

Want to thank all for the tips.
You gave some great leads and it seems many have gone the same route.
I will be checking this thread regularly so if anything else comes to mind, send it on over.
Thanks again.
 

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