Shran
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V8 Engine Swap
Solid Axle Swap
Truck of Month
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2008
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- 8,698
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- 4,797
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- Location
- Rapid City SD
- Engine Type
- V8
- Engine Size
- 5.0
I need some opinions on what is going on here. The scenario is that I have D35 and 8.8 swapped my '89 Ranger and the brakes are just spongy as hell when the engine is running - pedal feels good with the engine off.
New parts include front calipers, hoses, everything in the rear including wheel cylinders, and master cylinder. I have tried two different boosters with no improvement (one known good, and the original.)
I am getting clean fluid and a good flow at all 4 wheels and have bled everything a dozen times - the brakes just go away when I start the truck.
I have also tried adjusting the booster pushrod. This resulted in better brakes but still slightly spongy, and after a couple miles they got hot and locked up. I obviously went too far with the pushrod so I dialed it back in way below the minimum length and then back out to the .980" spec, and the pedal essentially hits the floor now when I start the truck.
Any ideas? Is it worth bypassing the RABS deal on the frame just to rule it out? Seems like I wouldn't be getting any fluid out of the rear if that was a problem. I am not a dummy with brakes and have done a million brake jobs over the years but this one is stumping me.
New parts include front calipers, hoses, everything in the rear including wheel cylinders, and master cylinder. I have tried two different boosters with no improvement (one known good, and the original.)
I am getting clean fluid and a good flow at all 4 wheels and have bled everything a dozen times - the brakes just go away when I start the truck.
I have also tried adjusting the booster pushrod. This resulted in better brakes but still slightly spongy, and after a couple miles they got hot and locked up. I obviously went too far with the pushrod so I dialed it back in way below the minimum length and then back out to the .980" spec, and the pedal essentially hits the floor now when I start the truck.
Any ideas? Is it worth bypassing the RABS deal on the frame just to rule it out? Seems like I wouldn't be getting any fluid out of the rear if that was a problem. I am not a dummy with brakes and have done a million brake jobs over the years but this one is stumping me.