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Codes?


rusty ol ranger

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Ok, i went out and ran a KOEO test on the ranger (87 2.9) and got the following codes...

10
18-"Loss of tach input/IDM circuit failure/SPOUT circuit grounded" (Stored code)
33- "EGR valve fault, not closing properly" (Stored code)

...and code 67. This one is odd. According to the reader its not a stored code, but a "Neutral pressure switch"code for 3.0/3.8L engines, and a "Stored" code for trucks the book says is a AC clutch fault (which, is understandable seeing as how the clutch just flops there).

Obviously i understand the EGR fault, but the code 18 im clueless. Also, if im understanding the code 10 is just completion of the test, correct?

Im gonna do a KOER test tomorrow after i drive it a bit and get it warmed up, ill update tomorrow afternoon.
 


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Did you not get a code before 10? When I pull codes on my '87 I get engine "off" codes, then 10 (signifies a 6 cylinder), then the engine "on/running" stored codes. Recently a forum member said that his code 33 was due to a bad connector at the EGR position sensor, but it could also be a bad EGR or plugged EGR port between the EGR and the throttle body. On my '87 a 67 is from pulling codes with the manual trans in gear (should be in neutral). 18? Check the SPOUT plug/jumper that you remove when setting the timing. You might check the connector at the ignition module also; I replaced mine recently because it had a bad connection there. Try wiggling it while the engine is running.
 

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Now that you add that code 33 to the mix you may have a stuck EGR valve.

You say it misses, bad at idle, gets better when the engine is revved up, worse when cold, right? Gas engines can't handle EGR flow at idle. Usually even a little bit will stall the engine, but on a 460 if the valve is stuck just a little bit you might just get crappy running. I know the wife's Mustang did that last summer. A little piece of carbon came off and got caught inside, holding the valve open just a bit, and it ran like crap at idle, and a good bit less terrible going down the road.

Pull the EGR valve off and try to blow through it. Shouldn't let anything through.
 

rusty ol ranger

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Now that you add that code 33 to the mix you may have a stuck EGR valve.

You say it misses, bad at idle, gets better when the engine is revved up, worse when cold, right? Gas engines can't handle EGR flow at idle. Usually even a little bit will stall the engine, but on a 460 if the valve is stuck just a little bit you might just get crappy running. I know the wife's Mustang did that last summer. A little piece of carbon came off and got caught inside, holding the valve open just a bit, and it ran like crap at idle, and a good bit less terrible going down the road.

Pull the EGR valve off and try to blow through it. Shouldn't let anything through.
This is on my 87 2.9. Right now it seems to be rich and be low on power. Which, could pry be a stuck EGR.
 

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This is on my 87 2.9. Right now it seems to be rich and be low on power. Which, could pry be a stuck EGR.
Could be.

The EGR position sensor on a 2.9 is an actual position sensor. It has a little rod on a potentiometer that gets moved by the valve itself, kind of like a throttle sensor. If it says the valve isn't closing it is probably not closing
 

rusty ol ranger

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I know the EGR pipe is broke right outta the exhaust manifold, could that be throwin anything off?

Im gonna run some KOER codes when i get done at work today, see where that sends me. I thought it was an o2 bad
 

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Can you start by answering the previous questions about KOEO vs stored codes? As written, your code numbers really don't make sense. The unit does run them separately, right?
 

rusty ol ranger

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Fast, im not sure what you were talkin about, i even went thru the other thread...

Either way, i screwed up yesterday. I didnt let the thing get warm before testing...But today i did and got the following...

KOEO
"Memory codes"
18
33

Current? (if thats the right name) code...
34-EGR control circuit failure.

KOER codes...
41 HEGO (HO2S) sensor voltage low/system lean.

Guessing thats due possibly to the gapeing exhaust leak just inches after the O2?

Also whats making it dump tons of fuel and have no power?

As a side note, any idea why my reader picked up my 2.9 as a 4 cylinder and my 460 as a 6 cylinder?
 
Last edited:

fastpakr

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34 as a KOEO code is definitely where I'd start. It's seeing a fault in the EGR circuit without the engine running. I don't have access, but someone here might be able to get you the pinpoint test to chase that down. Might check your local library to see if they still have the old Mitchell manuals on the shelf.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

rusty ol ranger

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34 as a KOEO code is definitely where I'd start. It's seeing a fault in the EGR circuit without the engine running. I don't have access, but someone here might be able to get you the pinpoint test to chase that down. Might check your local library to see if they still have the old Mitchell manuals on the shelf.

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I looked at the EGR valve, all i see is a vaccum line and a single wire running to it. Ive never dealt with EFI EGR valves before.

But yes, ill hit up the library later today see what i can find.

I "fixed" the exhaust hole then re ran codes, the O2 fault was gone.
 

fastpakr

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If you can't find it at the library, grab one of these online:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/362233304744
Mitchell 1987 Mitchell Domestic Truck & Van Service & Repair

They're worth their weight in gold if you have a code. Straight through troubleshooting sequence from beginning to end so you can nail down exactly what's causing a problem without any guessing. I've used one several times for engine things over the years, and the cruise control troubleshooting section helped me ID the cruise amplifier on my '94 Explorer. Really good stuff.
 

rusty ol ranger

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No luck at the library. So ill order that mitchell.

Earlier today i cleaned all the old codes out. Drove it pry 15 miles or so....

All im getting now is the EGR code, as well as a coolant temp sensor code. Im also getting the no tach signal/dead spout code. I pulled the spout connector, the plug looked ok. Any ideas on where to go with that?


Ill yank the EGR as soon as i get more time, maybe tmw afternoon. Clean it up, the truck had sat for about 12 yrs before i got it, the old guy ran it around his golf course towing in dead carts and other odd jobs, but that was it.

I got plugs/wires/cap/rotor and both fuel filters, so ill get all that changed out shortly as well.

I banged the cat again, the rattling was something further back, and after getting the exhaust sealed up fairly well im getting good flow outta the tailpipe. So im thinking thats out.

Rusty #1 never gave me any of these issues, so im kinda runnin blind here.

I just feel like theres no throttle response here. It feels very lazy.
 

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Consider yourself scolded by what I'm about to say, don't get butthurt okay?


The cat is bad! I can't believe you had the gasket done and at least didn't get a look inside!

I've never seen rattle cat there was not a bad cat, and I've been through a few.
 

fastpakr

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At the very least, buy a cheap vacuum gauge. You can confirm the cat's status one way or the other, and it's incredibly handy for testing other things in the future.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013VUZ7WG/
 

rusty ol ranger

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A legend to the old man, a hero to the child...
Consider yourself scolded by what I'm about to say, don't get butthurt okay?


The cat is bad! I can't believe you had the gasket done and at least didn't get a look inside!

I've never seen rattle cat there was not a bad cat, and I've been through a few.

I didnt have it done, i rolled some aluminum foil up and jammed in the hole then put exhaust putty on it...its a quick fix to get by till the 97 gets done and itll keep the neighbors happy when i fire it up at 2 am...

Fast, i plan on getting one. I shoulda got one the other day and it slipped my mind.
 

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