DonDumas
New Member
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2015
- Messages
- 16
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 1
- Vehicle Year
- 2000
- Make / Model
- ford
- Transmission
- Manual
I purchased atruck that had no brake fluid service in 15 years.
it's a 2000 which does not have the jumper wire to short out.
Attached wiring diagram shows the OHM readings for the valve coils. if the coils ohm out properly the and flushing the system with new fluid didn't work you can try the steps.
I removed my master reservoir and cleaned the sludge out of it filled with fresh fluid and bleed. I also dissassembled the abs valve and cleaned it in a ultrasonic cleaner.
after re-assembly turn ignition on if light goes out and the you press the brake pedal the light illuminates again, lift the electrical portion of the valve and turn off ignition and back on, push brake pedal if light stays off their is air in the valve.
I dissassembled the valves from the body, filled the body with fluid, disassembled the first valve (the plunger end) and filled with fluid, then screwed into the valve body. then put a clamp over the center portto block any air or fluid leak and pushed the brake pedal once and let up slow, this pushed any remaining air out of the first valve.
then I pushe the center (brass spool) and spring into place. then filled cap(electrical cap) with fliud and installed.
By now the location for the second valve was full of fliud, I pulled the spool apartfillef with fluid and re assembled spool and qiuckly moved from upside down ti right side up placing valve into valve body.
after that I opened the right rear bleed screw and let it gravity bleed.
Problem now solved and properly working compressing air inside valve let the reset input fir creating a fault
I hope this help others as I had wasted money on parking brake switch, brakes switch and speed sensor before finding the wiring diagram onthe net.
it's a 2000 which does not have the jumper wire to short out.
Attached wiring diagram shows the OHM readings for the valve coils. if the coils ohm out properly the and flushing the system with new fluid didn't work you can try the steps.
I removed my master reservoir and cleaned the sludge out of it filled with fresh fluid and bleed. I also dissassembled the abs valve and cleaned it in a ultrasonic cleaner.
after re-assembly turn ignition on if light goes out and the you press the brake pedal the light illuminates again, lift the electrical portion of the valve and turn off ignition and back on, push brake pedal if light stays off their is air in the valve.
I dissassembled the valves from the body, filled the body with fluid, disassembled the first valve (the plunger end) and filled with fluid, then screwed into the valve body. then put a clamp over the center portto block any air or fluid leak and pushed the brake pedal once and let up slow, this pushed any remaining air out of the first valve.
then I pushe the center (brass spool) and spring into place. then filled cap(electrical cap) with fliud and installed.
By now the location for the second valve was full of fliud, I pulled the spool apartfillef with fluid and re assembled spool and qiuckly moved from upside down ti right side up placing valve into valve body.
after that I opened the right rear bleed screw and let it gravity bleed.
Problem now solved and properly working compressing air inside valve let the reset input fir creating a fault
I hope this help others as I had wasted money on parking brake switch, brakes switch and speed sensor before finding the wiring diagram onthe net.
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