2010 Ford Ranger 14x,xxxKM's Manual

Hi, I have a 2010 Ford Ranger 14X,XXXKM's Manual 2.3L.

My issues are that happened today that iv noticed are.

#1: My Temp Gauge : differs from time to time. Its either COLD or above Cold or Normal Temp. "HAS only went to MAX temp like 3 weeks ago and wouldnt gain speed, power so i had to shut it off and later drove home and in the morning had a computer delete the Error code 1299 i think it was. After that no issues for awhile now just recently started having a weird TEMP to it.

"This problem i plan to fix by getting a new therm stat tomorrow evening after work."

#2: Very High Idle : 3000-4000RPMS when in no gear and slowly reduces when i stop/put it into a gear when stopped, When starting to go from a Stop i had to really push the gas and ride the clutch to get it not to Stall/Bog a couple times if i lightly press gas, also iv only had enough time maybe 15minutes and only 'STALL' i originally had was when i started the truck it RPM'd 3-4k and than stalled other than that i managed to milk her home perfectly without stalling by playing the clutch and gas.

Other than this i haven't noticed any other issues that could be a accomplice to whats currently happening.


I haven't changed ANY fluids since buying it two months ago, Sadly been laid off of the bricklayer union shortly after getting a new truck after my original got smashed and money has been tight and just found a job as a roofer. But thats what im aiming todo is a complete fluid change other than brakes and washer fluid.

I disconnected the Battery for some reason someone, sometime ago always suggested that for some reason and i did just out of shits and giggles.

Using "I think it was....", when codes are involved is almost like not having codes, best to write them down.

P1299 means cylinder head sensor was reporting over heating, and since Coolant temp gauge was as well(different sensor), I would think engine was actually overheating.
At that time Computer will limit power/RPMs to try and save the engine, probably saved you $4,000-$6,000 for a new engine.

Yes new thermostat would be first step, could be another issue but that's the least expensive to change.

2010 2.3l should have electric cooling fan on rad, is it coming on?
If you have AC turn it on and cooling fan should come on.

Idle/RPM issue reads like IAC Valve problem, they can be cleaned.

Hello. I went looking around and foundout from a Tech, but he didnt look at the truck just by what i described when i was gonna buy a 70$ Therm+Housing "As they come together in this truck" and when telling him "High idle when coasting, coming to a stop or moment i push the gas goes to about 3000-4000rpms and comes back down to normal and when driving normal cant even notice it and that im using alot more fuel then i normally would with my 2.3L about twice as much actually now, couple stalls, it bogs/hesitates when starting the truck up and takes a long time to actually turn over like 2 approaching 3 times the time it normally would take and that when i start it i press the gas and it chokes out and then resumes normally just at a high ass idle til it dies down and that its like you gotta let it sit for 2-3 minutes before you drive or your next couple stops your gonna have to press the gas hard and grind the clutch to not stall but then acts completely normal besides high idle and AC blows Warm/hot only i ended up buying a 17$ therm temp guage or whatever its correctly spelt..

As for the IAC what product would you trust for my throttlebody / iac parts.

Hi, i need help the Code is 1299 - Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor Detected Engine Overheating Condition.

I found it, popped off the rubber top,disconnected it and now issue is i cannot reach the part to twist because of the connector part is in the way of the wrenchable part and needle noses even if i tried to fix em in wouldnt sadly.. It looks like i need a 3 inch long or longer socket that about not larger than 1 and half inches in width and its in a perfect circle hole into the top part of the engine/head...? anyone know a page like 'part source or Canadian tire that has what you would recommend. iv searched but cant find the right tool.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Focus-Fusion-Ranger-Engine-Cylinder-Head-Temperature-Sensor-OEM-8S4Z6G004A-/191522895356

Item size for what kinda of socket id need

EhToke said:

Hi, i need help the Code is 1299 - Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor Detected Engine Overheating Condition.

I found it, popped off the rubber top,disconnected it and now issue is i cannot reach the part to twist because of the connector part is in the way of the wrenchable part and needle noses even if i tried to fix em in wouldnt sadly.. It looks like i need a 3 inch long or longer socket that about not larger than 1 and half inches in width and its in a perfect circle hole into the top part of the engine/head...? anyone know a page like 'part source or Canadian tire that has what you would recommend. iv searched but cant find the right tool.

Click to expand...

Are you trying to replace the head temperature sensor?

Have you tested the temperature sensor?

Maybe the temperature sensor is working perfectly, and the code was generated because your engine was actually overheating.

Troubleshooting requires you to test parts, not just guess and replace everything until you accidentally stumble across the right one.

A wandering temp gauge usually means a thermostat is failing. The sensor in the head that is telling the computer the engine is over heating is probably telling you the truth. Sensors do fail; but, not very often. I am amazed at the number of people who get a code and jump to the conclusion that the sensor must be bad when it is just doing its job.

Hello, Yeah i have the engine showing cold always pretty much even when hot out and driving an hour or so.. and VERY rarely has it tried to climb. i mean once in a blue moon kinda thing. I did have an error 1299, had it cleared by a hand held scanner from 'Parts Source' by a guy their.
as for its climbing it does it almost to normal TEMP but it goes down doesnt matter what im currently doing behind the wheel.. stopping, turning, signaling, etc.

The high idle remains around 3-4000RPMs when coasting in neutral or coming to a stop 'It doesnt decrease til im fully stopped and it actually seems to Climb higher and high longer im coasting but iv always tried stop it before 4k just incase i blow something'.

My thermo stat comes pre-built and seems to be working as its not over heating by smell or blubbling and the hoses feel quite warm, but not burning me if i keep hands on em long period.

A puff of black smoke happens randomly - usually when i stall and im quickly turning it on and trying to go.

Could it be the wiring connector as it shows a slight burn on the otter lip?

takes a few seconds longer to start than it would when being warm 'on those moon blue times i have the temp up i do shut it off quickly and turn it on and it starts perfect.. and drives normal til ofcourse 5 seconds have passed and the temps down to nothing.

Also my Fuel Eco has gone out the window since the Temp gauge went Cold always.

Any ideas? Im feeling its the sensor. As iv had a water pump go in the 91 ford ranger i had and knew right away what its issue was.


EDIT : Issue, Tried to remove the old Temp Sensor to take with me to a few places to get the proper one 'I was given one that didnt line up and their claiming its all they have' - anyways im wanting to take it out. none of my long sockets work i fear the old one was stripped some how and now i cannt remove it i have half inch of play since its down in a hole. any ideas? on how to remove it should i super glue the socket and place it on the thing and wait just for that grip to loosen it so i can work from their?