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1989 ford ranger 2.9 so confused


shannmarshall27

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1989
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ford ranger xlt
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ok here goes. I have a 2.9 v6.. i have had this truck for over a year and trying my best to keep it going. the problems i have had is heating issues. replaced the water pump got some heat this past winter after the heater core. thermostat. radiator lines. but i am still getting coolant blow back into the reservoir. i took out the thermostat tried blue devil for any head gasket issues. did that procedure been doing it for years. no problems resolved. replaced the valve covers for leaking oil. but there reason i am writing today is that i have a serious oil leak in the front. it is all over the motor. i have tried sealers. thicker oil. stop leaks. looks like front behind the timing cover. in that area. the whole front is covered. it looks like below the head and thermostat housing. but leaking down and hitting moving parts and covering the passenger side of the truck.. i am so lost on this truck. it seams nothing fixes the problems. it is a old truck but doesn't seem to follow any logic. i have tried. but am lost on it . replaced pvc valve because i am also getting to much pressure through the system. my break booster when bad. i replaced it. but the connection from the pressure keeps blowing it out. friends have told me maybe the piston rings causing this. it seems i have to much pressure in the system and it is throwing the truck in disarray. i need it to get back and forth to work. need help bad. any suggestions. i am lost. so confused. i have tried to look at posts and things. but no solid answers. i have 5 kids and time and funds are limited. please any help
 


bronco2fan

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4WD
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Man, I really wish I could be of some help to you. I've not heard of a engine having to much pressure before. Normally it's air in through the intake, out the exhaust. Cats not clogged? Running ok? Sulfur smell coming from exhaust? If pistons are going bad the pressure doesn't get more, it gets less. Piston rings wear on the cylinder causing blow by. No compression. Brake booster works on vacuum, have you checked for vacuum leaks? I wouldn't worry about heat right now unless it's overheating. Hope I helped a little. I'm sure others will chime in when they get a chance. Good luck.
 

RonD

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Welcome to TRS :)


First thing to do, is to take blown head gasket/cracked head off the table.
Do the Glove Test:
Cold engine
Remove rad cap and overflow hose
Plug overflow hose outlet
Put latex glove over rad cap opening, seal it in place with rubber band; you can use a balloon or even a condom in place of the glove.
Pull coil<>distributor wire, you want a no start.

Crank engine and watch glove
If it bounces up and down then you have a cylinder leaking pressure into cooling system.

If it just lays there then you do not

If it bounces you can remove 1 spark plug at a time and crank engine, when glove stops bouncing last spark plug removed was from the leaking cylinder.
This can help after disassembly to find out why it was leaking.

Blue Devil or other head gasket sealers do work, they use "liquid glass" that turns to a solid at very high temperature, like in a cylinder when it fires.
But they don't work every time on all type of cylinder leaks.

So do the Glove test first to take cylinder leak off the table before wasting time or money on other things.


Oil from front of the engine, when described as "alot", is most likely the crank shaft main seal, not too hard to replace, and new seal is under $10.
Pull off fan belt then pull off harmonic balancer/pulley, replace seal, reinstall.

Power booster is a Vacuum hose, can't see it "blowing" off unless you have a bad misfire or turbo charger you didn't mention.
Blow-by goes into the crankcase and could push extra pressure into the intake via PCV valve and hose, that would mean time to rebuild that engine
 
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