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making the 4.0 ohv ecu stand alone


alaskan155

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does anyone have the pinout the 42 pin connector on the 2000 ranger 4.0 harness with the 5r55e and PATS?(might be close to the 5.0 harness in the 99-01 explorers) wondering how hard it would be to put into a 1st gen explorer for a project vs running the a4ld.


that square one, i think it is c115?

wanting to strip it down to the engine harness, ecu, obd ii port, and pats modules so it will start and run.

thankyou.
 


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There is a potential problem with your idea.

You can make it start and run, but any module connected to the OBDII network will have a terminating resistor in it. If one of the resistors is missing from the system it makes the resistance of the whole thing wrong, and crashes the network. It won't keep it from running (usually) but it can keep the scanner from getting a connection. You may have to keep the GEM and instrument cluster in the loop.

For what you are doing the earlier the PCM the better.
 
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RangerSVT

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Believe it or not, its already a standalone setup, except for the pats. If you get an earlier ecu (95-97) that didnt have pats, it will work.

SVT
 

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Believe it or not, its already a standalone setup, except for the pats. If you get an earlier ecu (95-97) that didnt have pats, it will work.

SVT
Right, I should have been more specific in my post, but I had kids and dogs doing bad things.

In the 95-97 years the IC was not a module proper, and is not really involved in the OBDII network, and the GEM was there, but it was something of a non-entity.

Even into 98 if you don't have PATS it should be OK. By 2000 the IC was a programmable module in it's own right and its absence from the system may crash the network.
 

alaskan155

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Right, I should have been more specific in my post, but I had kids and dogs doing bad things.

In the 95-97 years the IC was not a module proper, and is not really involved in the OBDII network, and the GEM was there, but it was something of a non-entity.

Even into 98 if you don't have PATS it should be OK. By 2000 the IC was a programmable module in it's own right and its absence from the system may crash the network.
the problem i have heard with running the older the ECU is the wiring on the 2000 5r55e is different on the older ecus, and they deleted some sensors.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/one-way-to-save-a-first-gen-a4ld-to-5r55e-swap-completed.308447/page-5

been doing some research, i know this guy is running 2 ECU which i don't think are needed, plus the PATs would be a added bonus for theft/security.

i didn't know the can-bus would crash though if the GEM and other stuff where missing from the system, i know that looking at the diagram for the obd port that those lines go directly into the obd ii plug and i have seen people make the 5.0 harness stand alone for the older ones without pats.

i don't know i might be biting off more than i can chew, been a while since i did wiring, figured i had a complete 2000 ranger for a donor if i wanted to(i know im not going to get much for it with cut fenders and stripped interior and mismatched bed), the explorer has a working a4ld, i just like how the 5r55e runs in my 2000 ranger with the extra gear and if its just 42 pins to figure out(as most of the ecu harness connects directly to the engine anyhow) that it wouldn't be to bad of a swap,

i know looking at the pats wiring, the pats(2 modules) just gets power and runs to pin 16 and 15 on the ECU, which is the DLC BUS + and -, which should be 2 pins on the the 42 pin connector).
 

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If you have the complete vehicle I'd consider a complete swap, dash and all. It is actually not as hard as you might think to mount the 95+ dash to an older firewall.
 

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If you have the complete vehicle I'd consider a complete swap, dash and all. It is actually not as hard as you might think to mount the 95+ dash to an older firewall.

ive thought about it, even researched it

pros
1. updated dash/engine wiring would be plug and play.
2. more room when i do a v8 swap a few years down the road as the heater box gets move more towards the P/S,

cons,
1. firewall is same shape but all the cutouts are different
2. wiring, ranger to 4 door explorer,i think it might be a pita with the rear hatch stuff and extra 2 doors(power windows).
3. heater core replacement/service , gen 2 dash(dont have to pull dash) vs gen 3 dash (have to pull it).


im also kinda limited on space(1 car garage/rainy season in Washington).... im picking up the explorer on Saturday, so ill compare them both when i have the side by side Saturday, i really don't have a good welder to do sheet-metal though, all i have is a miller dc stick welder right now.
 

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#2 is less of a concern than you might think. The power window setup is mostly self-contained, only really interacting with the rest of the system at fuse box.

If would literally be a matter of finding the blue=black wire coming out of the 2000 fuse block and soldering it to the one leading to the driver's door of the Explorer, or better yet IMO, finding the same black and blue wire in the Explorer's cross-harness and taking it straight to the battery with it's own fuse holder. Make it a fully stand-alone system that is always hot so if it is raining and you left your windows down you aren't fumbling for keys.
 

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Hey guys, new here. So from what i have been reading on my 97 OHV, I just need the engine harness and ECU and it will run on a test stand? I'm having the motor redone and tweaked a little bit. (blue printed bottom end, better pistons, connecting rods, 422 cam, ported heads etc) The motor is going to NC and I am in MN, but he asked to send the harness so he can run it before he sends it back. This should be possible with harness and ECU?

Thanks
 

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Yes, it's possible. You'll need the engine harness and ECU. Preferably the vehicle side of the 42 pin plug on top the intake, about 6-12" of wire. Only about 7 wires are needed to be hooked up for it to run

SVT
 

chiri

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Yes, it's possible. You'll need the engine harness and ECU. Preferably the vehicle side of the 42 pin plug on top the intake, about 6-12" of wire. Only about 7 wires are needed to be hooked up for it to run

SVT
Sorry to use this tread but I am looking to swap a 95 4.0 into a 2.3 ranger but want to start the engine as a stand alone system to avoid modifications in the ranger wiring, have done more or less what RangerSVT says, have follow the instructions of connecting the positive (pin 1 + 37, 57) and negative (20, 40, 60), fuel (22) pins from the ECU and the ICM, but cannot get it to start, have no spark and will test for injection. All the sensors are already in the engine wiring and the externals as far as I know dont seems to be a problem for starting.
Can you help me with this?
 

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Well if you are putting a 95 4.0 into a 96 body you should be able to just plug the 95 harness into the 96 and go.
 

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everything in the ecu is reprogrammable thus the ecu does not rely on any modules to function. All the 5.0 pushrod ecu's are SCP not can-bus so no terminating resistors to contend with as far as the ecu is concerned.

I have reprogrammed ecu's as 'stand-alone' no problem. Any reputable tuner can disable anything your not using in the ecu.

Easiest method is to keep your stock dash and wiring, simply swap the ecu. Go through your swap engine harness to the ecu and clean it up pulling out anything your not using and simplify it.

Note that most eec-v's have the same ecu pinout. This listing will help you as far as inputs and outputs etc...
 

chiri

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Well if you are putting a 95 4.0 into a 96 body you should be able to just plug the 95 harness into the 96 and go.
you mean the square connector from engine? this is the 42 pin connector?
 

chiri

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everything in the ecu is reprogrammable thus the ecu does not rely on any modules to function. All the 5.0 pushrod ecu's are SCP not can-bus so no terminating resistors to contend with as far as the ecu is concerned.

I have reprogrammed ecu's as 'stand-alone' no problem. Any reputable tuner can disable anything your not using in the ecu.

Easiest method is to keep your stock dash and wiring, simply swap the ecu. Go through your swap engine harness to the ecu and clean it up pulling out anything your not using and simplify it.

Note that most eec-v's have the same ecu pinout. This listing will help you as far as inputs and outputs etc...
I got some of the info from your site, the basic connections.

Have just realized that the engine I am using is a 95 and the computer is a 94, must have been replaced. there is a difference between both years, the camshaft position sensor, can this be a problem?
 

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