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M5OD swap questions


TIGGER

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1991
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So the FM146 is on its last legs with a bad input shaft bearing. I pulled a MD05 from an 00 explorer yesterday. I got the shifter and the tunnel plate. I already did the 4.0 clutch swap like 16 years ago which by the way was one of the best upgrades people can do with their 2.9. So here are my questions...

The top plate does not have the neutral switch. Should I get a plate with one or just bridge the wires. If I bypass it how does 4low work? I have the electronic xfer case.

The transmission has a 98 part number. Truck had 210k on the clock. Not sure if the transmission is original to it or not. Shifter bushings are tight. Gears and case looks super clean inside. Input shaft has a movement though and the tip which goes into the pilot bearing was rusty. I took some emery cloth to it when I got home. It is not gouged but it is pitted and no longer machine smooth. Will this be a problem? How much play can the input shaft have and still be good? Was thinking of doing bearings before i put it in. I have a press which I think is the only special tool needed other than the 55mm wrench. A large crescent wrench should work too right?

Since I already did the clutch swap many years ago do I need to change my 2.9 hydraulics for 4.0 stuff? I know it is a good idea to change the slave when I have it out but if I choose not to will there be a problem? What is the difference between the two engine systems? I have read many threads. Some people say you need to others do not. What is the real answer?

And finally the shifter moves forward on the M5OD, what does that do the carpet? Will I have get a new carpet so I do not have a gap at the bottom of the shifter boot? My original Interior and carpet is in very nice shape. I don’t want to replace the carpet if I do not have too. A gap in the carpet will bug me though. None of the threads have discussed the carpet.

Thanks guys
 


Shran

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You don't need the neutral switch - speaking from experience the electronic shift box is wired into the clutch switch and the neutral switch so just having one or the other will make it function, the t-case just won't shift if the clutch pedal is in the engaged position. I automatic swapped a 94 Explorer that had a 5 speed and the wiring is just wrapped up around the frame - just have to push the clutch pedal in to make it start and shift the t-case.

Wouldn't worry about the input shaft, I'd only be concerned if it had a groove worn into it that would cause lateral movement inside the pilot bearing.

Press isn't needed for a rebuild, I don't use mine when rebuilding these but some chunks of round tubing of various sizes are handy for hammering bearings on - you'll see what I mean. 55mm wrench is handy but I don't have one and just use a big pipe wrench and cheater pipe.

2.9 clutch hydraulics will be fine. Reusing slave cylinders is fine. I have reused all of that before, including worn clutches, but I also don't think it's a big deal to pull the trans again when it wears out. I am not aware of any differences in '88-92ish M5OD hydraulic parts - in fact the truck I just 4.0 swapped got a used slave that came off an FM-146.

Carpet - yes, the carpet situation sucks. You have to cut out a chunk of the carpet AND the floor plate where the shifter moves to. You can move the cut off chunk to the open spot and cut it to fit there, glue it to the floor or whatever. You'll probably be able to see what you did but it's a lot easier than replacing the carpet.

If you can get a floor plate from either an M5OD truck or one with a column shift and 2wd or electronic 4x4 that has no holes in it, you won't have to fill in the hole in your floor plate, just cut a hole in the blank one to fit.
 

TIGGER

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2.9
Transmission
Manual
You don't need the neutral switch - speaking from experience the electronic shift box is wired into the clutch switch and the neutral switch so just having one or the other will make it function, the t-case just won't shift if the clutch pedal is in the engaged position. I automatic swapped a 94 Explorer that had a 5 speed and the wiring is just wrapped up around the frame - just have to push the clutch pedal in to make it start and shift the t-case.

Wouldn't worry about the input shaft, I'd only be concerned if it had a groove worn into it that would cause lateral movement inside the pilot bearing.

Press isn't needed for a rebuild, I don't use mine when rebuilding these but some chunks of round tubing of various sizes are handy for hammering bearings on - you'll see what I mean. 55mm wrench is handy but I don't have one and just use a big pipe wrench and cheater pipe.

2.9 clutch hydraulics will be fine. Reusing slave cylinders is fine. I have reused all of that before, including worn clutches, but I also don't think it's a big deal to pull the trans again when it wears out. I am not aware of any differences in '88-92ish M5OD hydraulic parts - in fact the truck I just 4.0 swapped got a used slave that came off an FM-146.

Carpet - yes, the carpet situation sucks. You have to cut out a chunk of the carpet AND the floor plate where the shifter moves to. You can move the cut off chunk to the open spot and cut it to fit there, glue it to the floor or whatever. You'll probably be able to see what you did but it's a lot easier than replacing the carpet.

If you can get a floor plate from either an M5OD truck or one with a column shift and 2wd or electronic 4x4 that has no holes in it, you won't have to fill in the hole in your floor plate, just cut a hole in the blank one to fit.
Thanks for the info. I have the floor plate for the M5OD. That is a real bummer about the carpet. Might have to get a new one as it will bug me.
 

kparry1997

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I'm in the middle of an M5OD swap. I got the new flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, and transmission installed. I put a new slave cylinder meant for a 94 4.0. When attempting to install the master cylinder from the same year truck, it doesn't fit. Whoops. If I need to use a master from my generation (1987), I'm worried the fittings won't match to to the later generation slave cylinder. Any knowledge on this?

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
 

adsm08

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I have been using 92 hydraulics on my 80's trucks. Same firewall, right connections. You can also use your old master cylinder but install the line from the 94. That should work, and you don't have to go buying extra parts.
 

kparry1997

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I think I'm gonna end up buying a new master cylinder for the 87, since it's only $20 and it'll offer some peace of mind. As long as I can use the line from the newer generation, I'm golden. Thanks for the reply!

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
 

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