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‘90 Ranger XLT RABS issue.....


toolagit2qwit

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I have a 1990 ford ranger 2.9 v6 auto 4wd, 49k original miles. Have done a ton of searches on this issue and no clear fixes:
- Situation: replaced rear brakes and lines. Reservoir emptied due to leaking rear lines and wheel cylinders.
- Adjusted shoes and bled brakes. I have fluid coming out. Not as much like the fronts. I bled Rear Pass wheel first followed by driver rear. Test drove truck and jacked up. Rear brakes don’t stop the tires from spinning when pedal is depressed. Pedal feel is firm or normal. Parking Brake works great. Note: bench bled master too.
- ABS/Red Brake lights On and stay on. Code reads 5, I think (excessive actuations of dump valve during ABS braking). I get four quick flashes and one solid before it repeats. When I start the truck no abs/brake lights. As soon as I put truck in gear (automatic) lights illuminate. Master Cylinder is fine. New fluid, float works and I unplugged and cleaned connectors.
- Also new ABS speed sensor installed top of diff.
- I have read many threads but could not get a clear fix.
- I went to Ford dealership. You Do Not need the “Rotunda Star Tester” to bleed rabs1. I went to another dealership and they verified this.
- That leaves me with a) take rabs valve out and clean b) have a shop bleed with vacuum or c) buy new or refurb valve?
- I do not want to bypass.
Any thoughts or recommendations why the wheels won’t stop when depressing brake pedal? And rabs code solution?

Thank you in advance.
 


RonD

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toolagit2qwit

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I’ll recheck the lines for any kinks and disconnect from the wheel cyl to see if there is any flow difference. Didn’t think to open the inlet/outlet valves at the rabs. I’ll do that and see if this helps. I just read that the inlet has screen that could get blocked?? Thanks for the reply.
 

Denisefwd93

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stock, may get leveling springs in front "somday"
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I’ll recheck the lines for any kinks and disconnect from the wheel cyl to see if there is any flow difference. Didn’t think to open the inlet/outlet valves at the rabs. I’ll do that and see if this helps. I just read that the inlet has screen that could get blocked?? Thanks for the reply.
There is a video on YouTube of a guy bleeding rear wheels by removing the spring in the rabs valve that's mounted inside the frame just under the location of the master cylinder. Quality was not job one when they invented this system!
The problems with this setup are many and the solutions are few but you want to be at masochist and keep it .....

After we installed the third set of rear drums and new wheel cylinders on my truck. We bypassed it! Best brakes I've ever had on any vehicle!

The RABS valve will never lock the back wheels. The passages for the line going through are extremely small a clog with rust..
http://www.aa1car.com/library/abs_kelseyhayes_rwal.htm



The most scary thing that can happen, (and yes it happened to my truck) Air that's trapped will expand and cause the back brakes to lock up and or drag. Be like smoking hot! usually just the right rear,

But I'm not going to tell you what to do it is your choice and your decision I feel safer without RABS and unsafe with it.
 
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toolagit2qwit

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Thanks Denisefwd93. Yes, I am on a mission and looking forward to celebrating the end result of all this pain and frustration lol. I have the time for trial and error. I’m going to remove the valve and clean it. If it fails, I’ll buy a refurb and report my results. Thanks for the response and pic much appreciated.
 

Denisefwd93

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stock, may get leveling springs in front "somday"
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235
Thanks Denisefwd93. Yes, I am on a mission and looking forward to celebrating the end result of all this pain and frustration lol. I have the time for trial and error. I’m going to remove the valve and clean it. If it fails, I’ll buy a refurb and report my results. Thanks for the response and pic much appreciated.
I would urge you to get a new one, advance and rock I believe have/can get them it's over $100.

Do a quick web search, you will see thousands have gone where you are about to tread. Just remember, it's old technology compared to a newer vehicles. I'd rather see a retrofit of four-wheel abs to older trucks.
 

toolagit2qwit

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Denisefwd93

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stock, may get leveling springs in front "somday"
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I ordered a new one from Carid (see link below) for $87 or $140 with tax/shipping and $50 core. I’ll report back how things went. I may paint the new unit for added corrosion protection. Living in the NE seems to accelerate corroding. Thanks again.

https://www.carid.com/cardone/remanufactured-abs-hydraulic-assembly-mpn-12-2029.html?view=156130&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6bu9sozF2gIVXUsNCh1gswnDEAQYBiABEgKmm_D_BwE
Well don't paint it until you're sure you're not going to return! Did you pull the codes it's supposed to be pretty simple, I'm going to try and learn that myself on this truck we just got, good luck!

OH!
I just learned something else!!! the fluid level switch on the master cylinder will light up the ABS light if it's low on fluid or bad, it plugs into the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir and has three wires. I could be wrong on that, so you may want to check with the experts!
I
 
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toolagit2qwit

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I pulled off the reservoir wire and the ABS light was still on and red light off. Under the dash is a grounding wire and that help me read the code. I’m pretty sure it’s Code 5. I get 4 quick flashes and one pause or long light and then it repeats. Everything was fine until the reservoir went dry because of the wheel cylinders. I replaced the rear brakes with all new hardware. Fluid comes out of the wheel cylinders but not like the front. I had truck on jacks and pur into drive. The brakes did not stop tires so I’m not getting full hydro force. I had the master cylinder looked at and all is good. Could just be a nasty air block. Waiting for new part just in case. Im having trouble loosening the brake lines on the rabs. Lots PB Blaster and heat and no luck. Good news nothing has been stripped. I may just cut and run a new line to the flex line and to M/C. More to come.
 

Denisefwd93

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stock, may get leveling springs in front "somday"
Tire Size
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I pulled off the reservoir wire and the ABS light was still on and red light off. Under the dash is a grounding wire and that help me read the code. I’m pretty sure it’s Code 5. I get 4 quick flashes and one pause or long light and then it repeats. Everything was fine until the reservoir went dry because of the wheel cylinders. I replaced the rear brakes with all new hardware. Fluid comes out of the wheel cylinders but not like the front. I had truck on jacks and pur into drive. The brakes did not stop tires so I’m not getting full hydro force. I had the master cylinder looked at and all is good. Could just be a nasty air block. Waiting for new part just in case. Im having trouble loosening the brake lines on the rabs. Lots PB Blaster and heat and no luck. Good news nothing has been stripped. I may just cut and run a new line to the flex line and to M/C. More to come.
I'm sure pretty sure the parking brake and fluid level are separate from the ABS maybe Ron can confirm that.
 

adsm08

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I feel safer without RABS and unsafe with it.
I feel safer without ABS in general. I understand the benefits, I understand the functions, I understand the problems. I hate nothing more than having a system installed, that I expect to work, and not having it work, except maybe having a system installed and wondering if it is going to work or not, at crunch time.

I learned to drive without ABS, have only owned a handful of vehicles that had it, and have never found myself in a situation where I couldn't handle the problem at least as well as an ABS system would have.

I really feel like the rise of ABS and traction control systems has led to the seemingly rather drastic decline of the ability to drive in less than perfect weather.
 

Denisefwd93

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stock, may get leveling springs in front "somday"
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Will it fit???

I've been most of the day going back and forth exchanging to find a one!

According to specifications I found on AutoZone's site for the master cylinder:

Master Cylinder Port Sizes:primary M10x1.0 , Secondary M12x1.0

However, I'm not happy with AutoZone.

I did get the tube & fittings at AdvanceAuto. (Their website listing, does NOT provide the port sizes for the connections, go figure) but they have rack with all kinds of tubes and fittings.

The trouble is I've not been able to find list or website or reference to cross reference different size brake fittings for different vehicles using metric and USA. and, apparently there's no way to learn except by trial and error.

But it's a fact, Ford uses metric and American sizes on their brake lines.

 
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toolagit2qwit

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Follow up: Replaced RABS and all rear brake lines. All works great as it did when new. I had to cut off the brake lines going into the old rabs as they were rusted on. Removed bed to access and remove old rear lines, including the rubber flex line attached to the axle. I bought a 25’ steel brakeline roll and ran a custom fit (10’) line from rabs to the rear axle where it connects to the flex line. It was a PIA removing old lines and rerouting but doable. Same with line from MC to rabs. There’s not a lot of room to wrench on lines to rabs. Just tedious. Bled RR, RL, FR,FL. Started truck and no lights. No Red Brake Light and the Yellow abs went off after 3 secs. So a bad rabs will illuminate both red brake and yellow abs at same time. A red solo brake light indicates low brake fluid. This was confirmed by dealership. Thanks to all for your help and feedback. Job done! Next, replace shocks, rust prevent frame with POR15 and replace trans downshift cable that’s on order. The line is damaged from resting on exhaust pipe uggggg.
 

Denisefwd93

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4WD
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stock, may get leveling springs in front "somday"
Tire Size
235
congratulations! personally I would never buy one of those valves but it's a personal choice.
 

AdirondackRanger

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My credo
I brake for leaves that could be frogs
Follow up: I bought a 25’ steel brakeline roll and ran a custom fit (10’) line from rabs
I would have chosen the nickel/copper lines over the steel. Easier to work with and no rusting. My plow truck (03 dakota) hasn't been washed in 3 years and the n/c lines look like new.

my .02
 

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