Transmission Exchange possible and clutch issues came back hard!

Tedybear said:

Short lived success. Mod's can feel free to bump this over to the Transmission area. As this might take a while to sort out.


Did some checks on my 'prize' this morning.

Output shaft has almost no play. Smooth as silk.
Input shaft is/was a total mess. Play 'in/out' was fair.

I grabbed the input shaft and could wiggle it up/down/left/right/circular/etc... about 1/4"+ in each direction.

I gave it a spin, and all I could hear (it was not in gear) Nothing but bearing rumble. Made the rear wheel bearing on our VW that went bad seem tame.

It was returned to the pick and pull this morning for a full refund. I'll not spend over $100 for a "Good Used" transmission, only to have to pull the input shaft and wind up replacing bearing(s). I'd rather tear mine apart which I already own, and if it needs an input bearing? I just buy the bearing and call it a day.

Going back to sq. 1. Going to take my time, pull it apart...replace the clutch, slave, pilot bearing... And see how that goes. I know mine has worn out sync gears. But that one from the yard was full of potential pitfalls. Input shaft bearing being that loose? Kinda tells me this transmission likely wasn't being treated that nice. (With the score marks on the flywheel and pressure plate..confirms that)

S-

Click to expand...

just had my m5od rebuilt for about $905 needed input shaft, all syncros, all bearings, all seals, new shift fork, 2nd and 4th gears, and new shifter bushings. used m5od goes for about $700 so $200 more to have it rebuilt was a good thing. now shifts like a dream and is actually quiet...

Well that rated a 9/10 for being a PITA.

Attempted to remove the exhaust pipe. I can safely say that ain't happening anytime soon. Nailed it with more PB then I care to admit, and even the larger impact didn't even make a dent in it.

When the transmission goes back into the ol' girl- We will be pulling the converter pipe to muffler and pulling it down. Between that and hammering up on the body weld area to flatten just above the bell housing we should have enough room to twist-o-fit it back in place.

As for what we found: PO did in fact replace the clutch disc (LUK Brand) at some point. Now if he had changed out the pressure plate and flywheel? Along with the slave...Then I wouldn't be sitting here with a huge impact mark on my favorite finger (transfer case blood sacrifice).

Flywheel: Two score marks and part of the surface area looked like (can't spell it...but harringbone pattern?) Looked like the clutch was 'chattering' a bit. Probably when it wasn't fully disengaged.

Slave cylinder: Old and crusty looking. Throw out bearing looked and rotated like a "throw up" bearing. Extreme notch feeling when rotated-Just felt really rough.

Pressure plate: Couldn't find a brand name. I did see what looked like some of the fingers where 'lower' in the alignment then others. Also a bit crusty.

Pilot bearing and input shaft: Actually in GOOD shape? But the pilot will get replaced anyway. Let's see....hammer, bread......ham....cheese.... I'll bring extra bread <G>

All in all everything is out. Wish I had the parts to put back into it now, but I needed to eval what was going on first and make a 'shopping list'. Which is pretty much everything..

Any hints or tips for the re-assembly would be very welcome. But for the moment me and my crushed finger are getting dinner and then aspirin.

S-

Need to modify or do something with the exhaust flange bolts

Okay....Got the transmission out....Had issues with the "Y" pipe...... Posted this over and will cut and paste: While I can get the transmission out? Putting it back in with the "Y" pipe in place and jammed up tight...prompted the following:


Well the day got longer whether I liked it or not.

Examined the rear converter mount. Sense this Explorer has the torsion bars- The bracket would prevent the whole exhaust from tipping downward and allowing a bit of extra room for the transmission. So that gets scratched.

I move up to the converter to 'Y' pipe flange. No big deal. I've had these off Fords in the past. 3 bolts, new gasket...No Problem!. Except I just figured out how the last owner had the clutch done without touching the Y pipe. He did the same thing. With one major exception. The bolts to the flange where WELDED!!! in place so they wouldn't back off?!?!? And he managed to do it to all 3 bolts. So I can't get my angle grinder up there, and when I first attempted to use the actual tools? The nut came off---the weld is extreme and actually fairly solid...No chance to detach those two pipes without a torch. (which I do not have, nor can I borrow)

We've been soaking the Y pipe bolts with PB for almost a week, so I give it a shot with my fairly wimpy impact gun. I'd call it a disaster, but it might actually work out for the best. 1 bolt snapped off....(And my impact is a harbor freight El' Cheapo...) The metal was 1/2 gone after it contacted the flange.

At this point, I brought out the breaker bar and 4' pipe. Needless to say the Y pipe is now sitting (with the converters still attached) in the back cargo area of the Explorer along with everything else....

So I'm not totally screwed...or am I?

Not sure how this will play out. The passenger side I can access pretty well. So I'll grind the left overs flush with the manifold. Then drilling and tapping out holes for replacement studs for the exhaust. (My wife mentioned: "Just use a nut and bolt with lock washers". That's an option. I do currently have sitting on my desk an old school exhaust flange hardware kit for Ford. Left over from our 1975 F-250 when I needed to re-work the exhaust system. I'm concerned it might work itself loose over time.)

The drivers side. Different story. I'll have to get creative. Not quite enough room for my angle grinder. Last time I had to grind in a very confined area I borrowed a dremel tool and used the cut off wheels. Took a while, but got the job done. The other concern is the angle and space for my drill and bit. Both are hard angles and not quite user friendly. I've actually considered removing the manifold to rework the flange mount (or just say screw it, the manifolds are dirt cheap for this engine). However that would entail most likely snapping off exhaust manifold bolts in the heads....and I'd rather not go there.

Just as a side note: No way in heck will a stud extractor remove those remains. Yeah there's studo' plenty sticking up to grab with it. But if I pulled on a 5' breaker bar and the result was snapping the head of the bolt off? Fairly sure it will sheer off, or break the tool. (possible option for that drivers side one LOL.....)

So that's pretty much where this sits. I can afford a few basic drill bits and hardware before the expense money kicks in for the clutch parts. I'm planning on doing exhaust prep on Tuesday to remedy the flange carnage.

Tuesday I need to get this ready to go. Any ideas that do not involve using a torch would be welcome. The plan is listed above. Slice 'em down flush, drill and tap. New bolts or change to studs and call it a day.

Just trying to get this finished up. Parts will be ordered in likely Tuesday or Wednesday (expense check I've been waiting for should be deposited then) So I need to get the exhaust fixed...


S-

Not sure if anyone's still reading these? But I'll give an update in case Casper is interested.

After having a cobalt drill bit break off inside the left overs of the stud, I cried uncle. The stupid bit snapped off when it was just about ready to pop out the other side. Really not happy at this point.

I did some nosing around and found a company makes a clamp bracket that addresses this issue with Ford manifolds. $30 a side...OUCH!! All that for a chunk of metal with a screw thread welded to it.

I've little choice but to use that on the drivers side. No room for my drill to get into the space. On the lighter side. I decided to see if I could coax the passenger side manifold off. 4 of the 6 bolts came free with just a light rap on the handle of the ratchet. 2? Seized up tight. The wife remarked it looked as if someone did a head gasket job on it. This would make sense because the head gasket that is sticking out the rear of the engine doesn't look factory. So if someone did change it out, They likely over tightened a couple exhaust manifold bolts and couldn't properly torque down the other 4.

I hand tightened them down to what should be about 18'lbs. Told the wife if we needed to replace that in the future, I wouldn't risk tearing up the other 4 bolts..

Parts are all on order from Rock Auto. Hate to do it, but money can't afford OEM ford parts. Had to go with the LUK set. Slave, Flywheel, and complete clutch kit. Keeping my fingers crossed at this point that the worse is over.

S-