The most stuck lug nuts ever- help

jcsonderegger · Aug 1, 2016

I feel like an idiot saying this, but we've been working on getting two lug nuts off my 96 ranger for weeks now. We were going to do a wheel swap, which was supposed to take one evening at the most. This could possibly be the longest hang up we've had on the most absolutely ridiculous thing ever. Well, now we're really up a creek. Any help I can get at this point will be beneficial.

Here's what we've done:
- heated it
- pounded a small socket on
- used a cold chisel to widen the head of the nut to get more grip
- purchased and used a reverse threaded impact socket
- took it to Les Schwabb (indeed I threw in the towel, and they wouldn't even do anything for me for under $500)
- drilled through the centers of the lugs and have hogged out as much of the lugs as possible, yanked on it, pounded it, and prayed for it to come off. Probably about $100 in bits at least thus far
- cried ( only a little)

At this point, we're only another failed night away from just cutting the entire wheel off. But even then I'm not quite sure how to go about it. So I leave it to you. What on earth would you do in this situation?

alwaysFlOoReD · Aug 2, 2016

Two wheel drive front? It's been awhile since I've worked on the front. I was going to suggest removing the outer bearings and sliding the wheel and rotor off, but the caliper would hold it on. If you can get at the ball joints then removing from the knuckle out and taking to a machine shop might work. Otherwise a reciprocating saw and a few demolition blades and some careful cutting....
I hope someone else has a better idea.
Good luck.

I just went thru a not as bad as your time getting lug nuts off one wheel of my neon. The factory used a two piece nut where there is a thin chromed metal cover over a slightly smaller hardened metal lug nut. Over time rust forms between the two and swells the chrome piece. The proper sized 3/4" [actually 19mm] socket won't fit anymore and the next size up rounds it off. I ruined a good 3/8" wide wood chisel removing the chrome piece enough to get an 18mm socket on and lucky enough didn't end up like you.....

jcsonderegger · Aug 2, 2016

indeed, it is a two wheel drive and this is the front passenger wheel. Thanks for the suggestion

Tyler46 · Aug 2, 2016

Another possible option. Unhook the hydraulic line, remove the outer bearing and pull the rotor off with the wheel and caliper attached. Then get creative with a sawzall to retrieve the wheel and caliper. Better for you to work with if its all off the truck.

If it were me I would say to hell with it, buy 4 (or if you're lucky one replacement just like the other three) wheels and a rotor.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ericbphoto · Aug 2, 2016

I would keep trying the drill. Sharp bits and cutting oil. Start small, working your way to bigger bits until the stud gives way. Then install new studs.

A carbide burr on a die grinder may be useful also.

This job stinks. But it is do-able.

pjtoledo · Aug 2, 2016

if you want to save the wheel, combination of die grinder and drill bits.
drill deep enough to clear the wheel. getting the hole straight in the stud will be a challenge. use the grinder to start a flat spot for the drill. the one hole may have weakened the stud to where it will break if you can get an ez out over it.
sadly, it looks like a job for the an acetylene torch. or crank up the arc welder and melt the stud. I would guess the welder could keep damage to the wheel to a minimum as you could concentrate the heat inside the nuts.

worst case scenario, get a new truck!

jcsonderegger · Aug 2, 2016

Thanks for the suggestions. This wheel is the least of my concerns at this point. I got a set of 5 (with tires) for about $100. I was going to try to resell them, but at this point, I want to get the new ones on. Anyways, thanks for the suggestions. I think I'm going to go with either alwaysFlOoReD's advice, but just ditch the whole lot knuckle out (anybody want it? XD). I may go hit up the local tear apart yard, and the fronts needed new rotors anyways. we don't have a proper cutting torch or welder, however I've been pretty close to just getting another ranger pjtoledo XD

A friend suggested a hole saw to cut a hole straight through the wheel around the lug and nut, letting the wheel come off but leaving the carnage. I didn't mention that I have a spacer with its own lugs on the fronts, so maybe just getting that wheel off will let me undo the set of lug nuts that is actually connecting to the rotor, and ditch the spacer/nut catastrophe. Don't know a lot about hole saws, but I'm sure someone will sell me one that will go through this wheel. It's pretty soft metal, at least compared to the studs we've been drilling/chiseling.

Thanks again for the input. I can't let such a moronic issue be my undoing. So I'll update what happens.

RonD · Aug 2, 2016

If you could get to the nuts then a nut splitter would be the tool.

My vote would be to drill it out, the stud/nut.
And yes, use lots of oil and start with smaller bits and work you way up to inside diameter of lug nut.

Pulling the assembly wouldn't solve the problem but up to you really.

alwaysFlOoReD · Aug 2, 2016

I like the hole saw idea. Find one that just fits inside the hole around the lug nut. Then you can get a reciprocating saw in there to cut off the nut and stud, pound it out and get a new stud. Or replace rotor. Even if the hole saw won't get all the way thru it may weaken the rim enough to use brute force to break it off.

ericbphoto · Aug 2, 2016

It will be a shame if you destroy anything more than two studs, two nuts and maybe a couple drill bits on this project.

Where are you located? Anyone on here close enough to help out?

jcsonderegger · Aug 2, 2016

I'm in the Salt Lake City, UT area. But if you'd like to make the trip out, I can show you what beautiful trails UT has to offer.
And I've already gone through way more bits than I want to, nice cobalt ones that were expensive. This wheel is only worth a little bit for me to try to resell, and the tire is just fine. It's already been chewed up a good bit if you check out my picture. and I got 5 of them, so I can still sell a set of 4.

ericbphoto · Aug 2, 2016

Getting there would cost me more than the $500 the shop offered to charge you. But I would love to do some 'wheelin out west some day.

MagicMexican · Aug 2, 2016

jcsonderegger said:
- drilled through the centers of the lugs and have hogged out as much of the lugs as possible, yanked on it, pounded it, and prayed for it to come off. Probably about $100 in bits at least thus far
- cried ( only a little)

Like a few others have said, I would continue doing this. I would replace crying with angry yelling, and I would keep drilling until the stud is basically gone and what's left of the nut should just fall off.

aspevacek · Aug 2, 2016

if you are eating Cobalt drill bits are you using cutting oil on them and very often while drilling? I mean I have a set of cobalt bits I used for years as a tech and still use them today for projects. Key is keeping the surface well oiled and letting the drill do the work not putting ass behind the drill.

Rex2nr · Aug 4, 2016

tried one of these? https://www.pepboys.com/product/details/705642/00745

I would concentrate on cutting the wall of the lug nut by drilling. You may be able to spin it off with a hammer and chisel, or peel it off the stud.

The most stuck lug nuts ever- help

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