94 Ranger XLT Plans

Greg5567 · Sep 13, 2008

When I bought my Ranger it already had suspension and everything on it, I did not modify it in any way.

1994 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 V6 4.0L
8" Skyjacker Suspension
3" Body Lift
Hydraulic Shocks (Guessing Skyjacker that came with kit but no stickers put on it)
38.5x14.50-15LT Interco Thornbird TSL
15x12 Eagle Alloy Rims
Premium Manual Locking Hubs (WARN)
Dana 35 Front Axle
I believe the back is 8.8 28spline
4x4
Stacked Blocks :badidea:

I definately want to get the stacked blocks taken out, but after that the tires will rub. So not sure which path I want to take, keep all that and just beef up the motor, so I can actually spin these tires in the mud (OR) Get a 6" suspension, and get smaller tires and hopefully be able to let go of the stacked blocks.

I know I want to pickup (4) Skyjacker Nitro Shocks all around, and replace the single steering stabilizer with Dual Skyjacker Steering Stabilizers, I want to remove the stock exhaust and install dual straight pipes, then for the last of this list, I want to grab ProComp Lateral Trac Bar.

If anyone has any questions or advice, please feel free to PM or reply. Thanks!

Please note....this project will take quite a while as I am 16, and work Part Time for $7.00/hr and still go to school lol

danger88ranger · Sep 13, 2008

Stacked blocks should definatly go, i would sell those thornturds and throw a set of 35's on. You could probably get rid of the body lift and just keep the 8" kit you have on it. The shocks look really good in the pics, if the rest of the lift is skyjacker they are probably skyjacker also. I would first work on getting rid of tires first if it were my truck, but thats just me.

4x4junkie · Sep 13, 2008

Keep the bodylift if you want to stay tall, but drop the susp. lift down a couple inches and run some 35s or 36s. The lower lift will improve your steering linkage angle, giving you much better handling and driveablity (not to mention improved tire wear). Keep the pitman arm you have on there now.

Dishtowel · Sep 13, 2008

Looks like a fun truck man, good luck with it! You asked for input, and I have some.

Do something with the top of your coils, get some sort of retention clamp/device for the top of the coil. Having one pop out can be a pain in the ass.

I would stick with single exhaust, simpler, easier to route, takes up less space, and not real HP gains switching to dual on that truck. It will 'look' cooler, but I doubt it will sound better, spend the time+money on other stuff.

Stacked blocks are not desirable, glad you know this. Single blocks are still shunned for sum reason, but mine dont give me any grief whatsoever. I think you would really benifit from a pair of 63" chevy leafs, there is a handfull of guys that have done that around here, there is a good writeup in the library.

Sell the thornturds, buy some cool 35's that will suit your application (DD vs trail truck)

Why do you need new shocks and steering stabilizers? If the current ones are undamaged then just leave them be, $7/hr will only get you so far, and replacing undamaged stuff that already have is just foolish.

+1 on keeping the body lift and dropping to a 6" (or 4") suspension lift. Keep the sway bar if you are going to drive to school/work everyday.

PS: make sure and keep those brakelines away from the front tires, especially the thornturds with those huge sidelugs. One day you will crawl a curb just for fun and then have a ruined brake line and be in a bad way!

Hahnsb2 · Sep 13, 2008

If it was mine, I'd drop it down a few inches (removing some suspension lift as to get correct steering geometry and adding extended radius arms) and run some real tires in a 35x12.50. You don't need more power, you need gears, period. Running around on 38.5s with stock gears is just insane. I'd also swap in a M5OD 5 speed, and then lock it up and it'll be a good trail/DD truck. Also, don't straight pipe it, it sounds like ass.

Greg5567 · Sep 13, 2008

I was thinking 6" Suspension and keep the 3" Body and put a set of 35's on it.

Defiantely get rid of the stacked blocks though, not something I want, very dangerous as far as I know...

Any input on the lateral trac bar and if I can get a trade 6" Skyjacker Springs for my 8" Springs how does that sound, or if I switched would I need different parts or anything?

Also, I know thornbirds arent exactly the tire of choice, does anyone have any recommendations on a specific tire? I want something that I can drive around without wearing the tire down in a year or so but still makes it through the mud terrain and such.

Greg5567 · Sep 14, 2008

I have someone offering me his 6" Skyjacker Coil Springs for my 8" ones. Any comments?

I know its my project and all lol and its basically all up to me, but I am still trying to learn at the same time, so lots of opinions on my choices are greatly appreciated.

matt32 · Sep 14, 2008

my .02 would be to take the body lift off, iv never been a fan of them doesnt do anything for the performance of the vehicle just makes it taller. You could keep the 8in lift and coils and you would still be able to fit some 35's on. If you swap out the 8in coils with some 6in coils you wont be as level in the front. So you'd be runnin like an 8in susp. lift with like some 35 or 36in tires....just my opinion/advice

Greg5567 · Sep 14, 2008

I'm not 100% about what I want to do about all that.

I know I want to get rid of my stacked blocks, and I know that I want to get 35's put on the truck...

Would I be able to fit 35's with 8" Suspension 3" Body minus the stacked blocks (and possibly minus the 3" Body)

matt32 · Sep 14, 2008

yes you would be able to fit some 35's solely on just the 8in susp. lift

Greg5567 · Sep 14, 2008

Now....removing the 3" BODY lift should just put the whole body down 3" not JUST rear or JUST front...but removing the stacked blocks in the back, would that make the rear sag at all? If so...what can I do about that?

Also...any input on tires/rims would be great aswell...

Hahnsb2 · Sep 14, 2008

The problem with removing the body lift is that it doesn't correct the steering, I personally like mine, it gives a lot more space to work on things. You'd probably be able to fit 35s on 6" alone, I fit 34s on 3" with minor trimming (my wheel openings are smaller than yours).

Greg5567 · Sep 14, 2008

matt32 said:
If you swap out the 8in coils with some 6in coils you wont be as level in the front.

I dont understand that though, I mean, if I have 8" Coils all around, and switch to 6" Coils all around how am I not as level in the front?

Also, no one really said anything about the stacked blocks and sagging?

In the beginning I wanted 6" Suspension 3" Body 35" Tires and get rid of the stacked blocks in the back. Thats all...for now atleast, but it seemed like that would run me into problems?

mhughes165 · Sep 15, 2008

get rid of the stacked blocks just drop down to a SINGLE BLOCK, trade the 8" coils for the 6" coils, this will greatly improve your steering geometry, and once thats improved you wont NEED a dual steering stabilizer, with the amount of road driving you are planning on doin i would sugges you gettin a set of 35x12.5 goodyear mtr's they are a sweet tire offroad and they wear like iron. i think i addressed all of your concerns and this should make ur truck a hell of alot more stable.

ALSO on the ladderal track bar aka ladder bars prolly wont be needed if u drop down to a single block

Greg5567 · Sep 15, 2008

Yeah, you pretty much got straight to the point thanks so much.

Well guys I will keep you updated on the progress....as soon as I find another job =/

Looking at a set of (4) 35" BFG m/t KM2 tires

94 Ranger XLT Plans

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