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For those that have done the 95-97 Brake Retrofit


locovaca

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I saw a post on another Ranger site (*cough* RPS *cough*) where a guy complained about the steering stops being different between the 95-97 I-Beams and earlier, where the caliper bolts were hitting them a little too early. Has anyone else had that problem? I saw a mention of the steering stops on the sticky/tech library but it was for 4wd only.
 


locovaca

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I finally found a truck to steal the spindles from and compared the beams. Sure enough, the 95-97 beams have the steering stop further away from the balljoints than the 89-94. I took off maybe a quarter or half inch off; the end of the stop lines up more or less with the "top" of the ball joint hole. Hope this helps someone, might be worth adding to the sticky.
 

AllanD

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The issue is an illusion.

You do get more steering angle with the stpos removed from the '95-97 but the '90-94's don't actually turn more....

And in either case that "extra angle" simply lets you destroy the axle shaft yokes.

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locovaca

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From my understanding the issue wans't getting "more" steering angle, it was that you didn't get the same angle because the stops were too close to the caliper bolts and were rubbing up, causing you to lose steering. At any rate, it's already a done deal for me.

Thanks for chiming in Allan for future reference.
 

AllanD

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the simplest way of saying this is:

The stops on the '95-up are there because while the steering angle is greater without them it's not steering angle you can use with the hubs locked without breaking something.

I don't actually miss any loss of angle with my 1995-97 beams and brakes, because my supercab started life as a 2wd and the narrower track width would cause the steering to be limited by the tires hitting the frame....

So going to a D35 4x4 I got a smaller turning radius on the same truck.

Could I get a tighter turning radius? yep,

But not without rubbing or breaking.

You have to atleast consider the possibility that the factory engineers know something you don't.

In this case with the stops and the hubs locked and the T-case in 2wd
you can actually cause enough bind that turning the steering to the stop you can
both hear and feel the U-joints "rumble" as they get to the wrong side of their bind angle.

with the stops removed I'm sure you can wreck your shafts without even engaging the
transfer case

Now I don't know why, because I've never bothered to study the issue closely,
but on my 1993 with the single piston calipers brakes I can't turn it far enough to
get the joints to bind like they are (painfully obviously) doing on my '87 with 95-97
beams WITH the stops intact.

I know enough to say that removing the stops is a bad idea for anyone who doesn't
fully realize that they CAN turn the steering far enough to break something.

If I can get the joints to bind with the T-case in 2wd that raises a big red flag with me....

I'm just saying that while you can do what you want, don't be suprised when you egg out a yoke,
spin a cap, spit a clip and then find yourself replacing a front axle shaft out on the trail somewhere....



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locovaca

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Thanks for the Info Allan. One detail you might've missed, this is a 2WD I have...
 

AllanD

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On a 2wd I don't believe there is a difference in turning radius because there are other bits of cast metal that contact each other at about the same time.

I've got a 1990 4cyl truck sitting in my yard that is wearing the 1995-97 beams and neither I nor it's owner noticed a difference in turning radius.

It is however a short box standard cab which has a pretty tight turning radius to start with.

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JimRummy

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I am having this exact issue. I installed the 97 dual piston brake/knuckle setup on my 93 4.0 2wd, and lost a decent amount of my steering radius. There is a left turn that is really 95% of a U turn, and I used to make it with ease. Now it's within a few inches of not making it, every time. Like I can't make a right turn out of a driveway without going into oncoming traffics lane... So what needs to be adjusted?
 

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