Ignition Cylinder Creeps Back Kills Engine

AntiqueRanger · Jan 27, 2016

Good day. My 1990 Ranger 2.3 Manual Trans has developed a problem with the ignition cylinder creeping back while driving and killing the engine. Duct tape holds it in place temporarily, but need a permanent fix. Pulled shroud and cylinder to find one BK P(H) wire to cylinder which has a brass contact point riding grooves in cylinder as key turns. Spring in steering wheel lock gear box is sloppy and allowing cylinder to creep back. Told by parts stores to ask dealer for new mechanism to hold key in place. Unlocked steering wheel, (key in run position) pulled cylinder, turned key off, hooked up battery, and tried to start in hand-NoGo. Unhooked battery, placed cylinder back in column, hooked battery up, started (obviously still dies when key rebounds to run position). Seems the cylinder must be in column(possibly to ground it) for key to work. Attempting to replace gear box inside column will take parts chasing and tearing the column apart. Is there a way to hook the single wire to a toggle and convert to toggle start while still using the key to lock the the steering wheel?

AndyB. · Jan 27, 2016

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=386663&cc=1137686&jnid=543&jpid=6

RonD · Jan 27, 2016

Have you checked the ignition switch under the steering column(above brake pedal) to make sure it is sliding smoothly.
The key switch has a metal rod attached, when you turn the key the rod slides the ignition switch into its various positions.
It could be "pushing back" if it wearing out.

The steering wheel lock is part of the key switch mechanism but shouldn't effect if key stays in one place.
The lock cylinder is a softer metal so it will usually be the part that wears out, it may need to be replaced, a locksmith can re-key it to match your current keys

AntiqueRanger · Jan 27, 2016

RonD,
Thanks for the quick reply. Was not aware of this rod. Something is definitely causing the cylinder to back out of the "run" position to "off". I said "creep" because the movement is so slight. I could only think it was a worn spring in the steering wheel locking mechanism behind the ignition cylinder. I will do some more investigating. Are there any pictures on this forum you know of immediately that may help find it and diagnose. I will do some searching myself here for pics and location of the rod and ignition. Never pulled an ignition cylinder before yesterday and was surprised at the single wire to the contact point riding in grooves on the cylinder. Also surprised that this wire is not described in the wiring diagram. Contemplating how to use this single wire to start with a toggle and push button. Toggle for "run" and button for "start" while still using the key to unlock the steering wheel. Any ideas on that?

RonD · Jan 27, 2016

The "key" just allows the cylinder to turn.
The cylinder has a tab at the end that goes into a slot, when you turn the key that slot turns and pushes a bar inside the steering column.
This bar's other end is on the actual ignition switch, above brake pedal, this switch is what passes power to the various systems, depending on where the key is turned, ACC, OFF, RUN, START.

The wire on the key switch can be used for chime, that reminds people that a key is in the ignition, and other things, but it isn't for operation of the vehicle.

It is a bit confusing because "ignition switch" is used for both the key switch and actual ignition switch under the steering column.

google: ford ranger ignition switch

You will see that both come up, but now that you know the difference it may be helpful.

There are diagrams of typical Ford system seen here: http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c1528006bd6c

AntiqueRanger · Jan 27, 2016

RonD,
Found the rod and ignition switch. It is on top of the steering column and switch is well hidden. Turned key to check rod action and that could definitely be the problem. Thanks so much. Thanks AndyB. for the part reference. Baffling why a worn switch would push back on the rod. Will try to expose it further to get a better look. At a glance it seems I may have to pull the instrument cluster.

AndyB. · Jan 27, 2016

It's a pretty common wear item. When I first bought my ranger, in 96, my wipers would intermittently not work. The mechanic I took it to showed me that moving the key back to the run position would solve the issue. I later replaced the switch, $20 part.

AntiqueRanger · Jan 27, 2016

RonD and AlanB.,
Thanks for your replies. RonD especially. With your help I located the switch and began to remove the instrument cluster. With no switch on hand, decided to put it all back together in order to be able to drive to the parts store. Haynes is lacking and instructions pretty vague and sometimes not able to be executed. Will be able to get this problem fixed with no further questions. Ending this post with hopes the advice helps others with nomenclature and location. Thanks for your time and consideration.

AntiqueRanger · Jan 27, 2016

Oops AndyB.

alwaysFlOoReD · Jan 27, 2016

AntiqueRanger said:
RonD,
Found the rod and ignition switch. It is on top of the steering column and switch is well hidden. Turned key to check rod action and that could definitely be the problem. Thanks so much. Thanks AndyB. for the part reference. Baffling why a worn switch would push back on the rod. Will try to expose it further to get a better look. At a glance it seems I may have to pull the instrument cluster.

If memory serves, there is a spring somewhat centered inside the switch. When the key is put to start it pushes on the spring and will return to run once key is let go. Its possible the it jammed in such a way that the spring is still pushing in run as well as start positions.

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk

AntiqueRanger · Jan 28, 2016

I bought the switch and followed the installation directions. Took off my old switch and the plastic part with the pins was loose on one side. Lifted up on it and saw the ball bearing had fallen out of position which holds it in place at different key positions. That was surely the problem. Put it back together and operated it with a screwdriver and it still wouldn't lock into different positions. Ensured the key was set to run and the new switch was set to run. Installed new switch and operated the key to see how it worked. Smooth and definite clicks. The spring pushed back and the key locked down good in run position. Turned it off and hooked up battery. Acc worked, run worked, then tried to start. Nothing. I still had the steering column lowered in case the switch needed to be moved fore or aft a little. Tried adjusting the position of the switch on the column and still no start. Hooked up the old switch everything works, but start. I have missed something or have done something wrong. No wires were stressed during the install. Any suggestions?

AntiqueRanger · Jan 28, 2016

Never mind. Think I know the problem. I will post later when old Gyp is running.

AntiqueRanger · Jan 28, 2016

Problem solved. Starts and runs without shutting off unless I turn it off. Thanks to all. Now, never underestimate the power of stupidity. It is hard to step on the clutch when the column is in the seat and a panel is sitting on the pedal. Good day.

RonD · Jan 28, 2016

Manual trans clutch switch needs to be closed, pedal to the floor, or starter will not work.

Automatic needs to be in Park or Neutral, Ford Column shifters are notorious for getting loose and causing this type of issue.

Ignition Cylinder Creeps Back Kills Engine

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