Timing Problems

PeteVT15 · Sep 5, 2014

Hey guys, so I have ran into a problem with my ranger. I recently had to change the motor due to finding water in the oil. I found a low mile 3.0 Vulcan from a 98 Mercury Sable that with a little swapping worked in my truck. After getting it in I was having a horrible miss an threw a cam synchronizer fault. This is where the trouble starts. While at work my brother and dad removed the synchronizer to replace it with the one from the old engine and did not mark the position. They started the eninge an still has a slight miss at low rpm's an smoothes out after about 1500 rpm's. After a little research I found that they did everything wrong and now I'm afraid that the injectors and everything is out of sync. So how would one go about getting everything back to normal. Any help is appreciated in advance.

Pete

RonD · Sep 5, 2014

If Cam position sensor(CPS) isn't giving computer the correct injector timing the computer uses the Crank position(CKP) sensor and runs injectors as Batch fire, on a V6 that means 3 injectors open at the same time, MPG is slightly less, but shouldn't miss.

Look here for correct CPS timing: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/camshaft_position_sensor.shtml

I have read that when you use a previously transverse mounted 3.0l engine in a Ranger you need to change the head gaskets because coolant flow is different, I have also read that you don't have to, lol.

PeteVT15 · Sep 5, 2014

Yes I have read the same but left the heads and as of now no problem's but it hasn't been on real road test yet. Thank you for the link I'll check it out.

PeteVT15 · Sep 5, 2014

RonD I read this link earlier I guess my question is do I need the tool to get it back where they did not mark it. If so I guess I'll have to wait to finish tomorrow due to part store if they have the specialty tool. Or I read that I could go to tdc on compression an advance 26° and line the vain with what looked like the bolt hole for the secure washer. I really need to get the old girl back on the road my only ride right now.

PeteVT15 · Sep 5, 2014

Thanks for the help I give up for the night frustration got the best of me. Again any help/ opinions welcomed thanks in advance.

RonD · Sep 6, 2014

From a post by Stevorocks
"With the #1 cylinder @tdc on the compression stroke, the arm on the shaft should point to the cutout in the housing. When the sensor is installed in the housing, it should point 60 degrees from the rear of the engine. On my 2002, this was right above the bolt that secures the housing. So the synchro is in time when the cutout and the arm both point at the bolt hole. The install tool makes this much easier, the synchro I got from Oreillys came with one. "

There are TWO Top-Dead-Centers(TDCs) for the #1 cylinder, exhaust TDC and Compression TDC.
This is because the Crank turns 2 full turns for each 1 full turn of the Cam.

So just like a distributor can be 180deg off so can the CPS.

First step would be to place the crank on Compression TDC for #1
There are a few ways to do this
Remove spark plugs 2 to 6, manually turn the crank until you get resistance, this resistance will be the compression building up in #1, continue turning crank until you are at TDC mark.
Remove #1 spark plug, put a compression gauge in its place, or manually turn crank until you feel no resistance at TDC mark, crank will be hard to turn as you cycle through compression strokes on the other 5 cylinders, but when it's #1s turn for compression there will be no resistance since spark plug is removed.
#5 cylinder is the "matched pair" with #1, so it is the "other" TDC and will have resistance at the wrong TDC mark to use.

PeteVT15 · Sep 6, 2014

OK so I bought an installed the new shaft an it still is missing. Dad told me he also messed with this cap behind the distributor will this affect the engine timing.

PeteVT15 · Sep 6, 2014

An I meant coil pack not distributor

adsm08 · Sep 6, 2014

That cap there by the coil pack? The one for the vent on the EGR vacuum solenoid?

You can go more to the timing by just sitting there and staring at the engine really hard.

PeteVT15 · Sep 6, 2014

I'm not sure what he did to it. An I had no clue what that was so I didn't know if you took the cap off an messed with it if it would screw with the timing. I know you can't set the timing but I'm trying to get everything back to where it was.

adsm08 · Sep 6, 2014

The word "and" has a "d" in it. I know your D key works because you managed to use it twice to spell "did". I know, as many many people have pointed out, this is not "school" and these posts are not graded. Still, our primary form of communication here is the written word, and thus it needs to be used correctly.

You cannot set the timing. The only thing that can be done to affect the timing on that engine is to play with the cam sensor, or take the front cover off and mess with the timing cassette. Since you probably didn't mess with the cam timing, you have the cam synchro in wrong. That is of course assuming that your issue is timing related.

A misfire at idle could also be crappy spark, bad fuel atomization, or any other number of things.

Did you replace the plugs and wires and such?

PeteVT15 · Sep 6, 2014

Thanks for the tip an I'm sorry that my GRAMMAR is off since I'm on a phone an it missed the d. So after I get done I'll go to a grammar forum to avoid this lecture next time.

RonD · Sep 6, 2014

I know you have checked it two or three times, but just try a 4th time.

Coil pack wires are

4 6 5 >>>front
3 2 1 >>>front

The 4 6 5 gets me also most every time, on the 3.0l and 4.0l

If in doubt pull all three wires out for 4, 5 and 6, then re-install them one at a time

Kona · Sep 7, 2014

I have to look up my 4.0L spark order every time I pull the wires off also!

PeteVT15 · Sep 8, 2014

Checked the wires an even pulled synchronizer back out. I was off a little on the position helped with the miss. Now its only missing at lower rpm and seems to smoother after 2000 rpm

Timing Problems

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