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'97 Ranger 2.3L - No Spark


nobbyv

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I don't drive the thing much, but the last few months every few times I went to start it, it would crank but not start. I'd let it sit for a few hours, and it would then start. Finally, last week it won't start at all. I'm sure I have fuel. Pulled a plug on the driver's side (dual spark), and had no spark. I did NOT check the passenger side (foolishly). I figured after 170k, both coils were likely dead. A new coil was only $40, so I swapped it with the BACK coil (which feeds the passenger side), as a bolt on the front coil (feeds the driver's side) stripped while I was trying to remove it.

Still won't start, no spark on passenger side. I read that the dual-spark setups on earlier cars would only fire one coil while starting, but I'm not sure if that applies to my '97. Can anyone confirm if only one coil will fire while starting, and if so, which one (front/back)? All the posts I saw made reference to intake or exhaust side, but my two coils sit right next to each other on the passenger side of the engine.

DUH: when the comments I read said "exhaust side coil", they meant the coil that feeds the plugs on the exhaust side, NOT the physical location of the coil itself.
 
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RonD

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Yes, only exhaust side spark plugs get spark while starter motor is active, on any year with dual plugs.
While starter motor is active vehicle voltage drops below 10volts, so only using the one coil pack gives a stronger spark on those spark plugs for better cold start

Testing for spark is tough on Waste Spark systems, two spark plugs share 1 coil in the coil pack.

Best method is to spray gasoline or Quick Start(ether) into the intake and then try to start engine.
If it starts and dies then fuel system is the issue
If it doesn't fire/start then spark, OR Compression, is the issue
50/50 test, quick and easy

2.3l can break timing belt so no compression and of course no start
See if you can see the Cam gear turning when cranking engine over
 

nobbyv

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Yes, only exhaust side spark plugs get spark while starter motor is active, on any year with dual plugs.
While starter motor is active vehicle voltage drops below 10volts, so only using the one coil pack gives a stronger spark on those spark plugs for better cold start

Testing for spark is tough on Waste Spark systems, two spark plugs share 1 coil in the coil pack.

Best method is to spray gasoline or Quick Start(ether) into the intake and then try to start engine.
If it starts and dies then fuel system is the issue
If it doesn't fire/start then spark, OR Compression, is the issue
50/50 test, quick and easy

2.3l can break timing belt so no compression and of course no start
See if you can see the Cam gear turning when cranking engine over
Ron,
Thanks for the reply. I actually already tried the quick start in the intake, no joy. I'll check the timing belt tomorrow, but based on the fact that for awhile the issue was intermittent, I'm guessing it's fine (also, it was replaced ~15k ago).

So presuming the timing belt is OK, what else to check? The ignition control module is built into the PCM on my '97, I believe; is there any way to test the PCM? Or should I pony up the ~$140 for a rebuilt one?
 

RonD

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Not common for PCM to fail that way.
I assume CEL(check engine light) comes on with the key

Check that both coil packs have 12volts on center wire with Key On

If you want to remove PCM and open it up you would see some damage if the ICM(ignition control module) section failed, the transistors get very hot in normal operation, so they can fail just not at all common
 

scotts90ranger

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is the fuel pump turning on when you turn the key on? check engine light and whatnot turning on? if not, key on power isn't getting to the computer, if so it's something else.

it's hard to check for it, but if you could maybe check for injector pulse that would help, the fuel injectors and spark are driven off the crank sensor, if there's no signal then you aren't getting either. I don't know much about the newer crank sensors as I've only dealt with the earlier version that was dual...
 

RonD

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Scott hit on a good point

Crank sensor does start the ball rolling for spark and injectors, computer doesn't even know you are trying to start the engine until it "sees" crank sensor pulse.

Pull out 1 spark plug, easiest one to get at
Clean it off and reinstall
Crank engine over a few times
Pull spark plug out again and see if it is WET with fuel, it should be of course.
If not then best bet would be crank sensor or it's wiring to PCM
 

nobbyv

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Thanks guys, the fuel pump doesn't seem to be turning on; I'll try the spark plug check to see if the injectors seem to be squirting.

One more thought: I do have an OBD-II ELM 327 adapter and the Dash Command app. I noticed when cranking the starter, the RPM reading always says 0. Isn't this also an indication the crank position sensor has failed? Doesn't the RPM reading come off of that?

Of course, the spark plug fuel check should also confirm that. I'll try to get it done tomorrow; it's 26F here today and my truck is stuck sitting at the bottom of the driveway nowhere near the garage.
 
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RonD

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Yes, RPM comes directly from Crank sensor, so 0 RPM would indicate bad wire or sensor

You can test Crank sensor, on 1995 and up 2.3l, with a volt meter set to ACvolts, yes AC not DC.
It is a Variable Reluctance sensor, NOT hall effect sensor(1994 and earlier)
When cranking engine VR sensor should show .5 and up AC volts, volts get higher with higher RPMs, so actual voltage depends on cranking speed.
There is no polarity so red/black volt meter wires can connect to either connector on sensor


Crank sensor status would have no effect on fuel pump coming on for the 2 seconds after key is turned on, so if you do not hear fuel pump HUMMMMing just after key is turned on you have another issue.

You never said if Computer is booting up with key on?
Does the CEL come on?
0 RPM could be because computer is still off

Starter motor is independent of computer system, engine can crank over 'til the cows come home, with no active computer
 
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scotts90ranger

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Yeah, I'm with that, a bad ground or power to the engine computer would cause the fuel pump issue. I would inspect power and grounds until you get a fuel pump prime pulse with key on, you should be able to hear the fuel pump humming and like Ron said the check engine light should come on as well. If the computer isn't turning on you won't get RPM or fuel pump... Cranking has a lot going on and sometimes that does not read on OBDII stuff so I'm not sure I would trust that 100%.
 

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